2 posts tagged "Alexandre Rezza Haute Couture"
This year, the January high jewelry presentations were but a prelude to the July Haute Couture season, which itself will be just a preview of what’s to come at the year’s biggest jewelry event: Paris’ twenty-seventh Biennale des Antiquaires in September. But even though most houses just offered a shimmering taste, indie brands and established houses alike gave us lots to lust for. Here, a roundup of the season’s most compelling gems.
Aurélie Bidermann: Aurélie Bidermann’s quintessentially boho-chic personal style reflects the various places she’s lived since childhood—Paris, London, New York, and especially South America, with a nod to India for good measure. This multicolored sapphire and gold cuff with a tsavorite scarab detail headlines her debut foray into precious pieces. The designer’s much-anticipated collection spans colorful critter-shaped charms, a heavy elephant pendant, woven gold bracelets with diamond-lined edges, bangles that jingle, and medieval-inspired rings. We’re looking forward to seeing what fine-jewelry jungle the designer comes up with next.
Boucheron: Believe it or not, it’s been a decade since Boucheron first launched its covetable Quatre rings. Now, offspring include an all-diamond variation and cuff bracelets. The Radiant iteration comes in gold with a row of diamonds, and sober, all-gold Monochromes were on offer for those with subtler tastes. Other options include summery renditions with white ceramic “clous” (so named after the calibrated square cobblestones of the Place Vendôme). Mix-and-match stackables and solitaires round out the story.
Bulgari:In the months since Carla Bruni-Sarkozy debuted the original “summer” Diva necklace—she sported 108 carats of fancy-cut emeralds—Bulgari has been crafting a one-of-a-kind Diva for every season. The autumnal variation comes in 116 carats of moghul-cut rubellites, plus diamonds, amethysts, and mandarin garnets, while the winter version’s leaves are frosted over entirely with more than 40 carats of diamonds. Spring is still in the workshop, but it is set to be green, with mint tourmalines and peridots offset by amethysts and diamonds. Meanwhile, graphic, seventies-inflected pieces in diamonds and onyx join the Intarsio line.
Chanel: Gabrielle Chanel loved pearls—real, faux, by day, by night, for sport, you name it. But there is nothing faux, or workout-appropriate, in the brand’s latest high jewelry collection. About three-quarters of the eighty-seven pieces in Perles de Chanel—the first collection in eight years to focus on the house staple—was on display in the Chanel salon this week. And the decadent wares hit all the high notes in the Chanel lexicon: ribbons, lions, camellias, and Coromandel swallows, with pearls ranging from seed-size to gumball (mostly the latter). The colorful one-off necklace strung with five sizable Australian baroque pearls and seven varieties of precious and semiprecious stones is just one of many showstoppers.
Dauphin: Charlotte Dauphin de la Rochefoucauld, who chose her maiden name to headline her maison, makes her first foray into high jewelry this season, and her debut collection is nothing if not impressive. With a little help from friends like Paolo Roversi and Saskia de Brauw, the designer showcased a short line of “strong but light” pieces inspired by architecture—her gold and diamond rings and earrings could be the blueprints of the Eiffel Tower. Another cuff and matching necklace are an exercise in bone structure. Continue Reading “At Paris’ Haute Joaillerie Outings, a Twinkling Taste of What’s to Come” »
During the Fall ’13 Couture shows, which wrapped in Paris this weekend, houses debuted their jaw-dropping, and often blinding, haute joaillerie collections. Aside from a prominent seventies vibe, one thing came through loud and clear in the season’s jewelry presentations: a return to the statement stone (or perhaps we should say stones). Tina Isaac rounds up the most brilliant baubles from Dior, Chanel, Boucheron, Versace, and more, below.
CHER DIOR:“I always create families, so I think of these pieces as the babies of Dear Dior,” said Victoire de Castellane during a preview of her new line of high jewelry for the house, which she has dubbed Cher Dior. “I was thinking of specific words—like “fascinating,” “sparkling”—and thinking about how to render those in gems.” True to de Castellane’s style, the resulting 21 pieces are “classic without being classic”—an array of symmetrically designed, smaller, lighter wares with colorful center stones, lacelike settings, and surprising color combinations. Take, for example, the Exquise Emeraude earrings, whose central gemstones mismatch, or the riot of colored sapphires in the Majestueuse Multicolore necklace. The Jardin Avec Fleurs earrings, whose floral design and pastel colors seem lifted straight out of the eighteenth century, were de Castellane’s starting point and remain her favorite. “It’s like a game,” she said. “These are pieces that you can wear without ever getting bored.”
BOUCHERON: This year, Boucheron, the first jeweler to open shop on the Place Vendôme, is celebrating its 120th anniversary at that address. Because the light is particularly beguiling in its south-facing atelier, head jewelry designer Claire Choisne has devised an eight-chapter story—one episode for each of the eight facets of the Place Vendôme—dubbed the Hôtel de la Lumière. One of her masterpieces picks up on a 1948 latticework necklace in sapphire and diamonds, while completely modern rock-crystal pieces are inlaid with pavé diamonds. The Perles d’Eclat necklace, for example, features large rock-crystal beads held together by the diamond slices that the house pioneered; the beads gradually progress from frosted to transparent, and inside the transparent ones sits a 3-D bouquet of diamonds.
CHANEL: Gabrielle Chanel was known to say that she was “a worker bee born under the sign of Leo.” Because the powerful, protective beast is also the symbol of Venice, where the designer traveled to recover from Boy Capel’s death, and because the house recently signed on to sponsor the restoration of the winged lion atop St. Mark’s Basilica, Chanel presented the timely Sous le Signe du Lion, a 58-piece collection inspired by the majestic feline. Pieces ranged from literal (a diamond-covered Lion Céleste which, extrapolated from the Venice city insignia, shows the beast in profile with his paw atop a sizable diamond) to the CGI-worthy (Lion Mosaique features a lion’s head emerging in three-quarter profile from a gemstone background). The Lion San Marco ring, created in tribute to St. Mark’s Basilica, is carved from a piece of lapis lazuli and set in gold and platinum with a center diamond. Only five of these were produced, and they sold out well before couture week began. Continue Reading “Haute Bijoux and a Gemstone Phone” »