8 posts tagged "Alexandre Vauthier"
Only four seasons in, the young French couturier Alexandre Vauthier is hot. He was nominated for the ANDAM prize this year (he recently lost out to Hakaan Yildirim), and his sexy, shoulders-out-to-there look has found favor with both Madonna and Rihanna (specifically for the latter’s standout tour numbers). It doesn’t get much hotter than that. For his fourth couture show, staged in the column-lined basement of Paris’ Institut du Monde Arabe, Vauthier called in a little help from Simon Henwood (a.k.a. RiRi’s creative director and Róisín Murphy’s husband), who created a flashing light backdrop for the collection, titled Geometry.
If his shoulders were a tad reduced from Spring, the clothes were still plenty flashy, as, one imagines, Rihanna and her ilk require. First, a parade of girls with giant fox fur shoulders and sleek skirts—think King Kong above, Fay Wray below—and, to finish, Jess Stam glittering in a pagoda-shouldered, gold sequined wrap with plunging neckline. And although Vauthier is interested in building his ready-to-wear business (his clothing and accessories are for now sold exclusively at Paris’ tony department store Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche), he’s a couturier at heart. Chalk it up to three years with Thierry Mugler and eight years overseeing couture for Gaultier. This collection features embroidery from Lesage, plumes from Lemarié, spike-covered heels from Christian Louboutin, SAGA furs, and enough Swarovski crystals to re-sink the Titanic. And word is, he’s just completed a scent with his pal Francis Kurkdjian, the nose behind Gaultier’s successful Le Mâle.
With Jean-Paul Goude doing the rounds this week and Inès de la Fressange at Gaultier Paris, it seems like a full-on eighties couture revival is upon us. Alexandre Vauthier, former first assistant to Gaultier and a veteran of Thierry Mugler’s atelier, narrowed his vision on Grace Jones. A pointy shoulder formed the main silhouette story and Vauthier took it to extremes, sending out the kind of sharp angles that of course recall the decades-old heyday of Mugler and Gaultier (well, actually, also Gaultier’s current day) as well as the more recent revival kick-started by Martin Margiela. Still, it was somewhat of a time warp. Sessilee Lopez with an ultra-cinched waist and shoulders out to there was pure Grace incarnate. Not that we minded. When it comes to full-on fashion drama, we’re slaves to the rhythm.
Doo.Ri spreads the love. The designer will launch a lower-priced line next year, with plenty of draping and jersey and price tags in the under-$500 range. Recession dressing just got fun.
The latest bizarre fashion collaboration: Converse and the Grateful Dead. That’s right, dancing bears on your kicks.
European football mogul and oligarch Roman Abramovich and his totally gorgeous girlfriend Dasha Zhukova like to watch soccer matches at Nevada Smiths, with regular folk. See, even Russian gajillionaires go to dive bars.
Not content to just look at clothes on the runway, front-row staple Róisín Murphy wants take part in the action. The singer (who wore Gareth Pugh before Beyoncé, by the way) will model couture digs by newcomer Alexandre Vauthier, previously at Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier.