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September 1 2014

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16 posts tagged "Alexis Mabille"

Mabille and Margiela Awarded Haute Status

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The Commission de Classement Couture Création has awarded haute couture appellation to Maison Martin Margiela and Alexis Mabille today, officially welcoming the houses into the elite world of French couture. Acceptance into the haute circle is based on a host of criteria, including number of garments shown, the size of the atelier, meeting standards for bespoke and handmade pieces, and showing the requisite two collections per year. Margiela debuted their first couture, or as the house called it, “Artisanal” collection last July (remember those crystal face cages?) to a lofty front row that included Raf Simons. Mabille, on the other hand, has been showing his couture collection since 2008.


Photo: Allesandro Garofalo / GoRunway.com

Haute Click Couture

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In November, one of the world’s biggest haute couture collectors, Daphne Guinness, explained to the Telegraph that it was a “dying” art form. Don’t tell that to the team behind Modewalk.com, a new luxury e-commerce site launching next week.

“Drawing on a rich history of craftsmanship traditions, haute couture epitomizes the peak of fashion as an art form,” the group behind the site, Henri Deshays, Beatrice Pang, and Indre Rockefeller, told Style.com via e-mail. “We would like to use the Internet to enable modern clients from around the world to rediscover the genuine workmanship of this magical universe.”

Modewalk is opening up its virtual doors with a carefully selected roster of Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture designers, including Alexis Mabille, On Aura Tout Vu, Alexandre Vauthier, and Christophe Josse, as well as ready-to-wear and accessory items by French designers (Paris is their “launch” city) you might not be familiar with. But they haven’t reduced buying an $80,000 coat to the mere click of a button: “ModeWalk unveils the beautiful creative process and creates an emotional connection between the brands and our users,” they said, offering the “crème de la crème of the Paris shopping experience.”

Translation: Through the site, shoppers around the globe can book in-person appointments with designers, get runway show tickets, and access private sales.

ModeWalk.com launches January 23.

Photo: Courtesy Photo

Reed Krakoff Visits Paris, Hopes To Stay

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Reed Krakoff and his French wife Delphine love Paris. “I visit as often as I can,” he says. “I travel for inspiration because it’s my job, but even if I wasn’t working, I’d still be traveling.” He mentioned wanting to open a permanent Paris store one day. In the meantime, the designer (left, with Virginie Mouzat) and his brand’s new president, Valérie Hermann, created a showroom on three levels of the Galerie Karsten Greve in the Marais to introduce Parisians to his new collection. “I’ve kind of done everything in reverse,” Krakoff muses. “After 25 years designing for others, I really wanted to do my own thing and use all my experience to do it well.” Among those there to take it in: Sarah Lerfel, who buys Krakoff for Colette; Olympia Le-Tan and her illustrator papa Pierre Le-Tan, who has done projects for Krakoff at Coach; jewelry designer Harumi Klossowski, Balthus’ daughter; Comme des Garçons’ Adrian Joffe; fashion publishers Olivier Zahm of Purple and Ezra Petronio from Self Service; and Alexis Mabille, who didn’t let the fact of his impending haute couture show keep him away.

Photo: Courtesy of Reed Krakoff

Kruger, Brody, Deneuve, And More Wish
The Jaeger Reverso A Bon Anniversaire

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As 80th birthday parties go, few we’ve heard of were better attended than the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso’s. Clever staging, involving displays of 50 movements used for the watch, a gallery of exceptional timepieces, and artisans demonstrating their craft, were all on view for guests, but they were slightly overshadowed however by the arrival of megawatt fans like Clive Owen, Adrien Brody, Catherine Deneuve, and brand ambassadress Diane Kruger.

For the fashion crowd, the evening offered a break from Couture preparations. What to expect from the haute week? The hints they provided point to a sassy revision of the classics. Maxime Simoens, for one, is tackling vampires—Nosferatu, to be precise. Alexis Mabille said he was polishing a sartorial take on beloved French verses and compiling a collection of ten L.B.D.s’ for Guerlain’s rollout of La Petite Robe Noire fragrance this fall.

Speaking of which, vintage guru Didier Ludot, the owner of a boutique specializing in the L.B.D., is putting the final touches on his traditional windows, which are unveiled at an event at the Palais Royal on Sunday. But this time it’s not exactly about a couturier; it’s about the first of the truly great French chefs, François Vatel, who served Louis XIV. Still, the Couture connection is there: For one thing, Christian Dior once penned a book called La Cuisine Cousu-Main (“Handsewn Cuisine”), inspired by his fascination with eighteenth-century gastronomy. “The gestures are the same, and the desire to astonish is the same,” explained Ludot. “Louis XIV consumed 8,000 calories a day, so there was a real mise-en-scène, with fireworks and sprays of water.” The display features five exceptional Dior dresses from Ludot’s collection alongside Ladurée pastries created especially in the spirit of each one—interestingly, not a single macaron among them.

Photo: Courtesy of Jaeger LeCoultre

Face Paint on Facebook, Fashion’s Sweet and Savory, And More

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You can now poke your Avon lady. Minds out of the gutter, please: The beauty megabrand will begin selling its wares on Facebook. [WWD]

There’s couture—and then there’s the seventeenth-century reproduction jacket, which required thousands of hours of needlework using an early-modern embroidery stitch known mostly to historians. It’s going on display at Massachussetts’ Plimouth Plantation. Your move, Chanel métiers. [Boston Globe]

MePa rising? Levi’s is said to be eyeing a space on West 14th Street in NYC’s Meatpacking District. [Racked]

If you’ve got a sweet tooth rather than, er, a meat tooth, there’s good news for you, too: Alexis Mabille has designed a bûche de Noël for the Parisian bakery Angelina, which goes on sale December 21 through December 25. It’s got chestnuts, chocolate, yuzu, and pecans, but most importantly, the perfect accessory: Mabille’s signature silver bow. [The Moment]

Photo: Courtesy of Angelina