16 posts tagged "Alexis Mabille"
While Karl Lagerfeld was literally having his work cut out for him at Chanel Haute Couture (by Kamo, a Japanese hairdresser who created the show’s elaborate paper headdresses), his fellow designers had a slightly different form of scissorwork in mind. The sharp, soot-colored suits at Anne Valérie Hash and Armani Privé recalled the fitted tailoring and moody elegance of the Edwardian era. That age also resurfaced in the exaggerated shoulders inching up toward the models’ chins on a number of runways. Riccardo Tisci, fashion’s dark knight, kept things light at Givenchy by swapping sheer puffs of organza for shoulder pads. Click for a slideshow, then let us know whether Couture’s Edwardiana trend strikes you as fresh or stuck in the past.
The Galerie de Valois was hopping last night, what with the presentation of Anne Valérie Hash at the south end, Stella McCartney just up the way, and a few steps further: the unveiling of the first Corto Moltedo boutique with the full collection from Gabrielecorto Moltedo (known simply as Gabe to friends). Vintage doyen Didier Ludot stopped by to welcome his new neighbor; and fashionable friends Inès de la Fressange, Alexis Mabille, and André also popped in. “I’ve always wanted to be here,” the 31-year-old designer said. “Here, you find only specialists who do vintage, gloves, or glasses and that is what I am all about.” Inside, spare displays are made of repurposed shipping crates and a jukebox features Italian oldies with the odd entry by Kiss or the Bee Gees. Colorful clutches decorate the wall to the right but aren’t for sale: They are the house’s archives, a sampling of Moltedo’s custom creations. These start at €750, or $983, but other styles, such as a hot pink laptop case with a stitched motif and the gold C-star logo, is priced more accessibly at €250 ($327). “We only work with special materials, at my factory in Florence,” noted Moltedo. “I’m just happy to keep it small, to just be here and do my thing. The days of the It bag are over—where’s the money? Now, it’s all about value.”
146 Galerie de Valois, Paris 75001; www.corto.com
Wish you knew a little bit more about “on-the-rise talent” Alexis Mabille, who showed his Couture collection yesterday? For starters: “He sleeps in a bed modeled on a meringue and likes to sip champagne with a soupcon of violet syrup.” Our kind of guy.
For optimism in the fashion world, head to the Mall of America. They’ve got an amusement park, and they want you to use it.
Alexis Mabille may have restrained his social outings to a bare minimum this past week, but that doesn’t mean his assortment of accessories won’t be the talk of the town come spring. “It’s one-part Heidi, one-part Edelweiss, and reminds me of a boy or a girl running in the countryside completely in love: frivolous, romantic, fresh, sexy, and naive,” he told us of this season’s hippie-chic collection. The designer is expanding his horizons: Joining the array of bow ties is an assortment of clutch bags in vintage silks.