4 posts tagged "Alice McCall"
Australia fashion week wrapped in Sydney today, and Style.com’s special projects editor, Maya Singer, has been reporting back on the most exciting shows. To view our complete Australia fashion week coverage, click here.
Fashion week in Sydney concluded this afternoon with a show by Zambesi (left), one of the major brands from New Zealand. Even if you hadn’t known that Zambesi was based in Auckland, the clothes on the runway made it altogether clear that a non-Australian sensibility was at work. To put it plainly, Zambesi designers Elisabeth Findlay and Dayne Johnston have an affection for the eccentric and borderline frumpy that the local Sydney designers do not share at all. The men’s looks, designed by Johnston, were relatively straightforward—vaguely thuggish tailoring, plus the odd flourish like a pair of tailored wool shortalls. The womenswear, from Findlay, had a bit more range, with crispy and rather clinical white looks ebbing into more challenging pieces, such as long narrow dresses covered with fringe tassels. For both sexes, the sharpest looks were the ones in a tartan organza; very on-trend, that.
Zambesi aren’t the only carpetbaggers on the Australian fashion scene. Jewelry designer Estelle Dévé hails from the South of France, originally, but her brand is based in Melbourne, and in the five years since she launched, it has emerged as something of a cult phenomenon. Dévé’s signature pieces are plated rings with a rough-hewn look; this season, she’s elevated her aesthetic quite a bit, drawing on her French heritage for a bit of soigné, and sourcing influence from the surrealists. Standout pieces in the new collection include statement necklaces with egg-shaped crystal pendants half-covered in a dissolving layer of silver.
Dévé adapted several pieces from the new collection for a capsule range of bracelets and necklaces made in collaboration with Camilla and Marc (left). Those pieces were on the Camilla and Marc catwalk at the very start of Australian Fashion Week; so too was the jewelry work of Ryan Storer, whose dangerous-looking ear pieces adorned all the models at the show. Storey’s brand is ultra-new”—his very small debut collection is shipping to stores now, with a selection of the ear pieces due to arrive at Browns in London at any moment.
A new concept store opened this week in the rue Montorgueil area of Paris, and if its creators—twentysomething sisters Vanessa and Laetitia Roggwiller—have their way, it will up the capital’s fashion ante considerably. Freshly minted graduates in fashion marketing and communications, respectively, the sisters were mulling a boutique launch, but when they saw this duplex space on the rue Léopold Bellan, everything fell into place. “We wanted something surprising,” Vanessa explained of the shop’s architectural elements. “[We wanted to] fill it with clothes that are not known to the general public, but which fashion followers are sure to pick up on.” The first room is dedicated to chic city looks with pieces by hard-to-find designer David Szeto—who will turn out exclusive creations for the boutique this fall—revealing dresses by Australian designer Alice McCall, colorful collage trenches and bags by the Japanese label Dans La Vie, and selections for men by Kris Van Assche. In the next room, streetwear takes over, with Blondie T-shirts by 2K by Gingham and Vivienne Westwood Red Label accessories. Downstairs is a cosmetics-meets-gallery space with cheeky products pour deux by Yes for Lov or saucily named perfumes by État Libre d’Orange; a debut exhibition by photographer Cécile Brulé will be unveiled at the store’s official opening in April. “We want to push young creation,” Vanessa told us. “Paris should take a cue from London.”
Hotel Particulier, 15 rue Léopold Bellan, Paris.
Though there is much to look forward to in Topshop’s imminent opening of its first stateside outpost this fall, one of the undersung advantages of the Soho store is that New Yorkers will at last have easy access to Alice McCall’s Topshop range. Perhaps with that in mind, McCall is moving her runway show to New York from London this season, her debut outing in the city. What can we expect to see? Er, bugs. “I was at a dear friend’s home recently, and he was keeping a bunch of beetles in a glass jar to observe,” the designer recalls. “I got totally sucked in—they were so beautiful, and there was something clinical about watching them through the glass, too, and of course, an element of the grotesque.” McCall has translated her insect infatuation into clothes that play with new technology, using blown-out prints to create an illusion of texture, and texturing techniques like flocking or burn-out to work back into the prints. “I wanted the clothes to feel like something you were seeing under a microscope,” she explains.