4 posts tagged "AllSaints"
Label: AllSaints, designed by Wil Beedle
Need to know: British retailer AllSaints sent out a global message inspired by the torn billboard posters and all-around industrialism of its native East London at a presentation this week, which marked its second showing in New York. The brand is best known for its rocker-turned-city slicker aesthetic, and the Fall ’14 range was a hard-bent attempt on creative director Wil Beedle’s part to bridge the geographic reach that now encompasses its international fan base. A textural interplay of bonded cashmere and leather coats and asymmetrical blazers was on hand, while supple leather skirts and drop-waist trousers provided the structural base. There were more literal interpretations of the theme: thick fuzzy sweaters stripped at the shoulders and an asymmetrical dress with a grid-like pattern all in gray, white, and black, with occasional touches of saffron. The melton biker pants and velvet scuba shoes were highlights to the menswear repertoire, which also had leather bonded onto T-shirts and sweats for sportive flair. The brand also launched its first-ever handbags, which came in printed croc and napa leather. After all, this collection was meant to move.
He says: “These days, people wear the same things to the airport as they do in a nightclub,” explained Beedle. “We need a global versatility. And it’s important that this works as well in New York as it does in London, Berlin, Tokyo, Seoul, and beyond.”
Where to find it: AllSaints stores, Bloomingdale’s, and online at www.us.allsaints.com.
Since launching in 1994, London-based label AllSaints has built a sturdy reputation around its luxe-but-tough-edged leather jackets. However, under the creative direction of Wil Beedle—who has been with the brand just over a year—it offers some pretty spiffy ready-to-wear, too. This season, AllSaints took its show on the road and for the first time revealed its new collection via an installation during New York fashion week. “The collection felt ready,” said Beedle when asked why he chose Spring ’14 for his NYFW debut. “We felt like it was time to show it in line with the fashion calendar, and share [our clothes] with a global community,” he added. Indeed, Beedle had lots to present to the international press and buyers who came to visit AllSaints’ largely black-clad mannequins, which were lined up inside a sprawling abandoned garment factory on Mercer Street.
As part of the brand’s ongoing digital push, the multifaceted, two-day event included everything from a film shoot (a promo for the label’s new focus on footwear) to a live illustrator—whose floral drawings will later be printed on limited-edition T-shirts—to photo shoots, which took place on the warehouse roof. Much of this was live-streamed to the AllSaints Web site. And while the spectacle made for interesting online viewing, it was a little complex for those of use who were there—in real life—to see the clothes.
Speaking of the clothes, they were great. A paper-thin knee-length bonded-leather vest—worn with an easy gray tank and a black-and-white floral-print skirt—was a clear standout, while a pair of chiffon basketball shorts, shown with a crisp white blouse and the house’s signature black bomber, seemed an upmarket take on the streetwear styles we’ve been seeing of late. Playing with the concept of transparency, Beedle layered a hand-beaded silver vest over a white oxford, turned out a shirtdress in sheer black lace, and covered a saucy nude frock with a translucent chiffon en noir. The silhouettes combined soft draping (like relaxed silk trousers that tapered at the ankle) with razor-sharp lines (coats were clean and oversize) for an effect that felt hypermodern—and wearable.
AllSaints is available at AllSaints stores, as well as such department stores as Bloomingdale’s, and online at www.us.allsaints.com.
Between today’s launch of the AllSaints installation, Biker Project: Series 1 and Jay-Z singing about the brand in Justin Timberlake’s record-breaking song “Suit and Tie,” AllSaints creative director Wil Beedle could barely contain his excitement. “The biker jacket is an iconic silhouette for us, and it sums up our DNA, which is a little rock ‘n’ roll, but a thorough commitment to exquisite craftsmanship and design,” Beedle told Style.com. In an effort to convey its “slightly disruptive yet nimble” core, the London-based brand stripped its Covent Garden shop “back to its industrial bones,” making it the ideal location to exhibit fifty meticulously constructed biker jackets (some of which even include tattoo ink). The label also created a corresponding film that, debuting exclusively below, details the making of its signature leather toppers.Having previously collaborated with Tinie Tempah, Thenewno2, and Kings of Leon (just to name a few), AllSaints has some pretty legit rock ‘n’ roll ties. The label took its rebel status one step further with last year’s launch of the Basement Sessions—a series of weekly performances and interviews with musical heavyweights like Fatboy Slim, Gary Numan, and Kelis, that streamed on its Web site. And, of course, having the likes of Kristen Stewart, Cara Delevingne, Russell Brand, and Lourdes Leon as die-hard fans helps with the street cred.The Biker Project will eventually go on a road trip, with the jackets being auctioned off for a yet-to-be-named charity. And it seems like the brand is ramping up for a little adventure, too. “Our Los Angeles store opens in April—that will make fifteen stateside shops, alongside our Bloomingdale’s concessions,” Beedle says. “Our fans in America have shown a humbling amount of support. Americans can definitely relate to London’s rock ‘n’ roll rebellion vibe.” Watch out, L.A.—here comes trouble.
“We are the most unfamous famous band in the world,” says Grace Potter, front woman of Grace Potter and the Nocturnals, over the phone from her room at the Rivington Hotel in New York (she was in town to perform at Christie’s auction earlier in the week). “It takes people a second to figure that out that they know us and then they will hear one of our songs and say, ‘Oh my God, that’s them?’ ” Gracing TV and movie soundtracks from Almost Alice (the companion soundtrack for Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland) to One Tree Hill will do that for a band. Tomorrow, Potter and the Nocturnals take the stage for their Coachella debut, which should help put a face—and, as it turns out, a pair of McQueen heels—to the sound. On the eve of their debut, the fashion-savvy singer spoke with Style.com about stage outfits, crotch shots, and Tom Ford sunglasses.
What designers and labels are you especially attracted to?
I have been traipsing around in a lot of McQueen lately. I wore McQueen to Lollapalooza last year and McQueen shoes are actually really great for festivals—surprising I know, but comfortable. The guys in the band are big into AllSaints, it’s such a great no-brainer brand for us. AllSaints really fuels our fire. Also, I just picked up an Alexander Wang bag with rose gold accents that I am going to be rocking at Coachella.
What else do you have packed for Coachella?
I always pack too much for festivals for sure. You never know when the weather will change and you have to be prepared for anything, so you need everything from a raincoat to a bathing suit. This record we are coming out with is moving more in the direction of duality, playing against type. My look at Coachella, without divulging too much, is going to play against what people want to see at Coachella. They use Coachella as this opportunity to go crazy and wear feathers and look super weird. I love that because I’m a hippie, but I want to go for a more of Katharine Hepburn on acid look this year.
What does that look like, exactly?
I’m aiming for great lines and tailoring in blazers, lots of separates. Lanvin makes some really great pieces like that. Inevitably, you will get hot and you will want to take your clothes off and be naked. I love how Lanvin can deconstruct and look really elegant so it’s perfect for that. I also have this Wayne bomber-slash-blazer jacket—I chased it down after I saw it on the runway at the show in New York—and I plan on throwing it on when it gets cold at night. In terms of sunglasses, I am actually legally blind so I have a hard time with glasses because they don’t carry my prescription. But I am a Tom Ford sunglass girl, I can’t help myself. Continue Reading “Grace Yourself” »