6 posts tagged "Aloha Rag"
Tatsugo Yoda’s high-end Aloha Rag boutique got its start in Hawaii—and, before many of its compatriots fleshed out their e-commerce sites, with a thriving shop online. (A New York location was added in West Soho a few years back.) The shops are still a go-to for lines like Balmain, Comme des Garçons, and Maison Martin Margiela, and nowhere-else exclusives like Dover Street Market’s collection, which the store will be carrying for the first time for Fall ’10. But there’s also the house label, something of an inside secret among fashion types. (Thakoon Panichgul liked his Aloha Rag cardigan so much that he eventually collaborated with Yoda to launch his own men’s cardie—the first menswear piece he’s yet attempted.)
For Spring ’11, Rag extends even further, selling its collection to other boutiques for the first time. The AR line has always been about smart, vintage-inspired pieces, but for this, its third season, it’s larger than ever before. But less is still more. It’s the details that make these clothes: the bandanna lining on a tone-on-tone navy seersucker suit, or the contrasting, electric pink zipper linings on a nipped-in green army jacket (inspired by a military original). T-shirts come soft and slouchy, and printed with custom graphics that require a second look. A reproduction concert tee from 1969 promotes a show that never happened: It’s Yoda’s dream concert, featuring the Grateful Dead, Pink Floyd, and Rick James. For men: their own versions of the army jacket and the seersucker suit, plus chinos and camo-print pants with dropped pockets for a more flattering fit. And for everybody: unisex denim, sourced from Japan, in dark-dyed, distressed, and piqué fabrics.
No rest for the working man. Thakoon Panichgul had hardly put his feral new women’s collection to bed than he was back on the scene: The designer debuted his first men’s item, a cardigan collaboration with (and available exclusively at) New York- and Hawaii-based retailer Aloha Rag. Rag owner Tatsugo Yoda approached Panichgul after reading some kind words the designer had about an AR cardigan and ended up—a few lunches later, of course—with a Thakoon version of his own. The plaid-printed cotton-cashmere blend is available in two colors (a lumberjack red and a more muted, slate-ish gray/green) and picks up menswear details like the notched collar. “I kind of have a uniform—I wear cardigans and plaid shirts,” said the designer, wearing, yes, a cardigan over a plaid shirt. And so he combined the two. Is this, we wondered, a first step in the direction of menswear? Panichgul gave a qualified nod, noting that he wanted to fully develop the story behind a menswear line before embarking on it. In that case, let’s go ahead and call this cardie Chapter One.
Thakoon x Aloha Rag cardigan, $425, available at Aloha Rag, 505 Greenwich St., NYC, (212) 925-0882, www.aloharag.com.
I’m almost ashamed to admit this, but despite working at Style.com and spending long days and many nights in front of my computer, I don’t love online shopping. I prefer the up-close experience of my favorite stores—Zero + Maria Cornejo, Aloha Rag, and No.6. How, say, a jodhpur jumpsuit in Sim jersey with grosgrain straps and ori pockets feels and fits are just as important as how it looks, and those qualities are sometimes difficult to capture on a Web site. Underwear is a different story. I like what I like and what I like is Araks’ simple, delicate cotton lingerie. So I’m pretty thrilled that designer Araks Yeramyan opened an online shop this week at www.shop.araks.com. “It’s like having a store,” Yeramyan told me. “I’ll be able to see where things are going, what’s selling well, and quickly respond.” She better stock up on her Antonia bralette, because I’m planning to buy in bulk.
A store’s in-house label should act as a sort of sartorial caulk, filling in the cracks of its stock for a seamless shopping experience. That’s how Aloha Rag founder Tatsugo Yoda has been working for some time, lining the racks with occasional one-off pieces. But he’s now making it official with the store’s first house label for Spring 2010. The ten-piece capsule riffs on iconic pieces but transcends the basics with Yoda’s love of deconstruction and detail. (This is, after all, a guy who buys heavily into Margiela, Demeulemeester, and a host of Japanese labels.)
You can see the subtle flash of a gold zip running up the side of a classic white boyfriend shirt ($240). Apparently Yoda, like us, is a fan of modular clothes. Simply undo that zip for an A-line shape. A heather gray hoodie ($185) has the same feature, only in the middle of its back. There’s a strong utilitarian vein running through a military blouson ($380), the shorts-over-sweats Rocky pants ($280), and a boxy Chanel-esque jacket in distressed plaid flannel ($320). Also part of the new private label is Thakoon Panichgul’s men’s cardigan collaboration with 5+1 Annapurna. Here’s a wish-out-loud for an equally cool women’s collab for Fall.
If you’re like me, you get jealous every time one of your friends (and especially your frenemies) say they’re going to Tokyo. After all, it’s home to some of the world’s most fanatical fashion connoisseurs and a breeding ground for avant-garde design talents. (The Kawakubo stable is clearly just the tip of the iceberg.) Well, now you can do more than just sit at home and flip through a copy of Fruits to get your fill of Nippon chic. Japan Fashion Week is bringing 13 designers to New York for a group show on January 27. Among them are G.V.G.V., a label (pictured here) that’s available at Opening Ceremony and whose one-named designer, Mug, will be flying over for the event, and Ylang Ylang, designed by Ryunosuke Aoyagi and sold at Aloha Rag. After Tuesday night’s show, the various looks will go on display (and a few on sale) at boutiques in various downtown locations: Destination, Issey Miyake, Theory, and Aloha Rag until February 1.