2 posts tagged "Alon Livné"
Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.
Label: Alon Livné
Need to Know: Israeli designer Alon Livné’s career was kick-started in part thanks to a much-publicized turn designing costumes for Beyoncé’s Mrs. Carter World Tour. With that momentum behind him, he’s returned to New York for a sophomore season. A front row that included Paris Hilton and Rose McGowan was a testament to the fact that Livné does not design for the faint of heart. His Spring ’14 collection was a 1980s vision of the future—albeit significantly softer than, say, Blade Runner. White tops bore slashes of saturated pastel color to evoke lasers, and metallic gold accents abounded. The looks were futuristic, but not bloodless: Layers and spiraling accents seen on sleeves managed to feel organic, almost like the folds of a flower. These are clothes that occupy space, show skin, and generally assert Livné’s considerable ambition. Many of the pieces would be most at home on Queen Bey, onstage in all of her glory. But despite any initial doubts about wearability, the collection isn’t without pieces that are, indeed, ready to wear. A boxy white minidress managed to be both architectural and flattering enough for those of us with less willowy frames. Elsewhere, a square space-age top was paired with black chiffon high-waisted trousers that were more Katharine Hepburn than Grace Jones, one of Livné’s spring muses.
He Says: “My last collection here in New York was all black, black on black, so in this collection, I tried to make something fun and happy but also stay within my signature look. I could say strong, feminine, self-confident—many things like this, but the most important thing to me is an intelligent woman who actually can appreciate the art behind the dresses.”
Where to Find It: Neiman Marcus, Barney’s New York, and Net-a-Porter, among others.
Beyoncé—superstar, tastemaker, Givenchy flame wearer—kicks off the U.S. leg of her Mrs. Carter Show World Tour in L.A. tonight. She already debuted a wealth of flashy wares in Europe, like custom costumes by The Blonds, David Koma, Dsquared², and Emilio Pucci. But, for her Stateside performances, Mrs. Carter is adding a few sartorial surprises. And she tapped emerging Israeli designer Alon Livné to make them.
The pair ignited their creative relationship back in February after Beyoncé’s stylists, Ty Hunter and Raquel Smith, attended the 27-year-old’s debut New York Fashion Week presentation. Smith reported back to Bey, who quickly fell in love with with one of Livné’s metal-embellished Pre-Fall gowns, and requested customized versions—in red—for her and her backup dancers to wear on the tour.
Based in Tel Aviv, where he owns two stores, Livné returned to New York earlier this month to show his Resort ’14 collection to retailers. And not long after his arrival, he got a call. “They asked me if I could do something special,” Livné told Style.com—the “they” being Beyoncé’s stylists, and her mother, Tina. “I said yes, of course.” There was one problem, though: he had nowhere to work. But when you’re designing for pop culture’s reigning queen, nothing is impossible. Beyoncé’s camp set him up in an office with an industrial sewing machine, and he got to it. “I think the fact that they were willing to help me make these dresses, and to give me a studio, was so amazing,” offered Livné. “I mean, it’s Beyoncé. She can go anywhere from Chanel to Givenchy and pick whatever she likes, and she helped me.”
The fruit of his labor is a scarlet corset sprinkled with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS crystals, the sketch of which debuts exclusively above. The look will serve as Ms. Knowles’ show opener this evening. Livné also made the star a printed gown with metal details, and a bevy of costumes for her backup dancers.
Not surprisingly, the Beyoncé connection has done wonders for Livné’s budding career. “Obviously, in Israel, it was huge, huge, huge amazing news,” he said. “Everyone was talking about the Israeli designer that dressed Beyoncé, the biggest star in the world.” But it’s helped him in New York, too—which is key, since he’s packing up his atelier and moving to Chelsea this summer. The designer, who interned at Alexander McQueen and worked with Roberto Cavalli before launching his dark, dramatic signature line nearly four years ago, just got picked up by Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. He’ll also put on a runway show at Lincoln Center this September. “I want to live my dream and work on the biggest stage that I can,” he said before catching his plane back to Tel Aviv on Thursday night. “So coming to New York is a dream come true.”