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July 28 2014

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4 posts tagged "Alta Roma"

Who Is On Next Crowns a New Crop of Rising Talents

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Who is on next

Over the past decade, the Who Is On Next competition has become a champion of Italy’s design strength. Yesterday’s tenth edition of the competition (sponsored by Alta Roma and Vogue Italia with Yoox.com), along with the accompanying exhibition in Rome, was a testament to both its impressive history and its promising future.

The three designers who joined the winner’s circle were Salvatore Piccione, Aliza Shalali Daizy, and Milica Stankovic. Piccione’s ladylike shapes, covered with engineered prints, beading, and embroidery, depict an imaginary garden world of flowers and bumble bees for his Piccione.Piccione collection. “The more detailed things are, the more excited I become,” said Piccione, who is originally from Sicily, backstage after the show. The London-based designer and print master has worked with the likes of Mary Katrantzou, Longchamp, and Céline.

Israeli designer Aliza Shalali Daizy, of Daizy Shely, also took top honors for her complex embellishments, an exuberant mix of feathers, geometric beading with hand- and digital-print leather. Daizy, who has lived in Milan for five years, decided to stay on after studying fashion at Istituto Marangoni. “I worked so hard for the past six months creating all the fabrics because I believe in what I’m doing,” she said.

bag

Serbian designer Milica Stankovic won for her Corion bag collection, which mixes lattice-braided calfskin and reptile with sculptured metal handles, all made in Tuscany. Stankovic, based in Paris, worked with Jean Paul Gaultier and Jean-Claude Jitrois and was inspired to start her label by her grandfather, a former tailor to the king of Serbia.

Last night’s exhibition at the Museo di Roma in the Palazzo Braschi also showcased the pieces by all past winners, from 2009′s Marco de Vincenzo (whose brand has recently been picked up by LVMH) to Stella Jean, who won in 2011 with her mix of African wax prints and fifties shapes. 2013′s winner, Austrian Arthur Arbesser, produces his collection in Milan, but he came back to Rome to see the competition. Arbesser, who launched his brand after working for Giorgio Armani, will present his first runway show in Milan next September.

Photos: Luca Sorrentino

At Alta Roma, It’s in With the Old, and the New

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Arthur Arbesser and Comeforbreakfast

Framed by the storied houses of alta moda, Alta Roma, Rome’s couture week, is always a feast of exhibitions, old-world craft, and rising stars. The four-day Fall ’14 spectacle, which wrapped this evening, offered up a Hans Feurer retrospective at the Roman palace La Pinacoteca del Tesoriere; a visit to the city’s Sartoria Farani, which has made costumes for Fellini, Pasolini, and Peter Brook; a fashion performance by Ludovica Amati in the rarely seen ruins below Rome’s Piazza Navona; and Bulgari’s presentation of the greatest hits from Diane Pernet’s A Shaded View on Fashion Film Festival, which was staged in Rome’s nearly 2,000-year-old Tempio di Adriano. If all this sounds like a nostalgia-inducing, Fellini-esque fashion circus, it was. But that’s not to say Rome didn’t highlight the new—it just took the most scenic route.

In fact, Alta Roma serves as a springboard for young designers. For instance, the six new talents who competed for Italy’s Who Is On Next prize last season returned to Rome to present their Fall ’14 collections. The winner of that competition, Austrian-born, Milan-based designer Arthur Arbesser (above, left), unveiled a fresh Fall ’14 range of checkerboard knits, transparent shirts, simple jackets, sweatshirts, and shorts.

Alta Roma afforded Arbesser not only a platform to present his Fall vision (which was inspired by “Joy Division’s Ian Curtis, London’s street edginess, Memphis design, and the straight lines of Vatican tailoring”) but also an opportunity to meet his idol, 83-year-old couturier Roberto Capucci, who came backstage to congratulate him postshow. “I was a child when the Kunsthistorisches, Vienna’s art history museum, showed Capucci’s pieces with armor and gowns from the Hapsburg Imperial family,” said Arbesser. “Seeing that convinced me to study fashion.” Continue Reading “At Alta Roma, It’s in With the Old, and the New” »

Guess Who’s Next? Alta Roma Honors Emerging Talent

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Looks from Arthur Arbesser and Esme Vie

Alta Roma, Italy’s answer to haute couture, is currently under way in Rome. And yesterday, the winners of this season’s Who Is On Next design competition were announced. It was judged by an esteemed panel that included Saks Fifth Avenue’s Terron Schaefer, Suzy Menkes, and Harrods’ Marigay McKee. The initiative supports independent designers who produce their labels in Italy. The top talents will receive an area to show their collections to buyers during next September’s Milan fashion week (courtesy of Vogue Italia), and they’ll also create an exclusive look, which will be stocked on Yoox.com.

This year, Arthur Arbesser, a Viennese designer who spent seven years working with Giorgio Armani before launching his own line last fall in Milan, co-won the grand prize. He shared the spotlight with Julia Voitenko and Daria Golveko, the Russian duo behind Esme Vie. Continue Reading “Guess Who’s Next? Alta Roma Honors Emerging Talent” »

Fendi’s Fountains

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It would appear that Fendi’s got a thing for fountains—or, at least, for Rome’s Trevi and Four Fountains. The Eternal City’s marble marvels date back to the eighteenth and sixteenth centuries, respectively, and while each is a cultural landmark (La Dolce Vita, anyone?), the centuries-old sites could do with a facelift. Enter Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Fendi, and Fendi CEO Pietro Beccari. Today, at a press conference during Alta Roma (the city’s equivalent of Paris’ Haute Couture shows), the trio discussed the house’s new $2.5 million “Fendi for Fountains” fund, which will, over the course of four years, help Rome restore its treasured watering holes. “I think this is a great project. The Trevi Fountain is like San Pietro and the Colosseum,” said Lagerfeld, who announced that he’ll be releasing a photography book about Rome’s fountains later this year. “It will be called The Glory of Water,” he said.

Fendi has deep roots in Rome. And along with its effort to beautify its home city, the house will restore, and hopefully rerelease, Histoire d’Eau, a 1977 film the five Fendi sisters produced with Karl Lagerfeld. The movie features model Susy Dyson, who plays a German tourist in Rome. “It was the first film made by a fashion house,” Silvia Fendi told Style.com. “This was done the year Fendi began ready-to-wear,” she added, noting they shot the film rather than putting on a fashion show. “She (Dyson) sunbathes and takes a bath in every fountain in Rome, wearing Fendi, of course. And she collects all the different waters in a bottle.” If the restoration project is a success, Fendi may host a fashion show at the Trevi Fountain in 2015—the year will mark the house’s ninetieth anniversary.

Photo: Courtesy of Fendi