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August 28 2014

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18 posts tagged "ANDAM"

At the Taj Mahal, a Regional Woolmark Prize Victor Is Chosen

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woolmark-sizedANDAM. The LVMH Prize. CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. The fashion industry is awash in awards these days. But of all the prizes for emerging designers, none has a more hallowed history than the one given out by Woolmark, which anointed both Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld in the 1950s. Since its relaunch in 2013, Woolmark’s International Prize has been good to its name, first feting Christian Wijnants of Belgium, and next tapping New Delhi-based Rahul Mishra in February of this year. Last week, on Wednesday, the competition geared up for another round of regionals, gathering together up-and-coming designers from India and the Middle East at the Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai.

bird-on-a-wire-sizedMishra was on hand for the event, and he wasn’t just there to take a victory lap. He was one of the region’s judges, alongside The Business of Fashion founder Imran Amed and Vogue India senior fashion features editor Priyanka Khanna, among others, and the gala dinner at the Taj was capped by some brief catwalking of Mishra’s new capsule collection for luxury e-tailer MyTheresa (pictured, above). The MyTheresa pieces featured soigné, Western-style silhouettes, and intricate embroidery that nodded to India’s tradition in handicraft. Meanwhile, one of the guests at the event could be found wearing a colorful Mishra-designed sari—a key part of his business in a country where traditional dress is still widely favored.

Alas, there were no saris onstage as the regional finalists presented their looks at the dinner. There was, however, menswear, a new category for the Woolmark prize. The Emperor 1688, based in the United Arab Emirates and designed by the three Golkar brothers, was handed the golden ticket to the menswear final in London, and the brand’s natty, well-priced tailoring seems likely to have a global appeal. The womenswear finalist, meanwhile, was Bird on a Wire from Lebanon (pictured, left), and designer Rayya Morcos will go on to that final in Beijing later this year. In the interim, the Woolmark road show travels on: The U.S. regionals take place next week in New York City.

Photo: Courtesy of Woolmark Prize

An Inside Look at Iris van Herpen’s ANDAM Win

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irisIris van Herpen is the winner of the 25th edition of the ANDAM Prize. The announcement was made at a cocktail party at the Hotel France-Amérique this evening in Paris, but some Twitter users were in early on the announcement. A stray Tweet made its way online before the jurors—among them first-time members including chairman and CEO of Kering Fçois-Henri Pinault, Estée Lauder’s John Demsey, Condé Nast France president Xavier Romatet, and Caroline de Maigret—adjourned for the day.

In her second year competing for the prize, Van Herpen beat out Fausto Puglisi (who in addition to his own line also creative directs Emanuel Ungaro), Yiqing Yin, Rad Hourani, Steven Tai, Jean-Paul Lespagnard, and the Études Studios trio. The Dutch 29-year-old will receive 250,000 euros and mentorship from Pinault. “It was a real privilege [to participate],” Pinault told Style.com. “The ANDAM Grand Prix is so important for the promotion of young designers in Paris. I didn’t expect this level of maturity, frankly. It was really an honor.” He went on: “I will be mentoring Iris for two seasons, and I intend to give her access to any of our brands that will help her in her project. There’s a great deal of opportunity for her.”

Van Herpen caused a mini-sensation at her first-ever ready-to-wear show for Fall ’14 last March when she suspended three models in shrink-wrapped plastic garbage bags in what she described as commentary on the commodification of the human body. Innovation is at the heart of Van Herpen’s work, and it was a key factor in her win today (as a jury member myself, I can vouch for that). “Until now, I’ve been focusing on couture to give myself the freedom and time to work on new materials and new production methods,” she said, after accepting the prize from Pinault and ANDAM’s Nathalie Dufour. “But I really feel like [my experiments] are ready to translate into the ready-to-wear now.”

Coperni’s Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, who claimed Nicolas Ghesquière and J.W. Anderson as their designer icons, won the 75,000 euro First Collection prize. Meyer, the designer half of the duo, is already a step ahead of some of the competitors in today’s Grand Prize category. He has a business partner in Vaillant. There’s no substitute for creativity. But, pointed out jury member Federico Marchetti of The Corner, “a business partner is something every designer needs.”

Photo: Courtesy Photo

Ami’s Alexandre Mattiussi Looks Back on His Best Year Yet

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AlexandreIt’s been a year since Alexandre Mattiussi, the founder and designer of burgeoning menswear brand Ami, took home the €250,000 ANDAM prize. As he prepares to pass on his crown and sash—and to show his Spring ’15 menswear collection in Paris—Mattiussi reflects on a fruitful year that included a new Paris store, his first runway show, and a revamped website. Here, the designer speaks with Style.com about his forthcoming collection, the importance of accessibility, and his little red cap.

It’s been a year since your ANDAM win. How are you feeling now?
Before ANDAM, I thought, Maybe we could win, and we did. When I do something, it’s a thousand percent, whether it’s creative or commercial. Winning the ANDAM is like winning the César. Since then, I’ve had lots of requests for advice, and I always say, “The point is to see your clothes worn.” If I were a baker, my attitude would be the same—I’d want people to line up for my cake, and it would not cost $15,000.

Renzo Rosso, who’s mentoring you post-ANDAM, said that he sees a lot of himself in you.
We share a birthday—September 15—and a lucky number, so there must be something to it. He’s helped us a lot with gaining international visibility, and he brought us cred.

So what did you do with the money?
I got a total makeover and liposuction, can’t you tell? We moved offices. I hired my intern. We redid the website and launched e-commerce. We hired a PR for the U.S. market. We held a fashion show in January; our second one is Saturday. Now I have more time to think about how I will create the wardrobe I’ve always wanted to, with a little more spice. We feel like we’re building. Three weeks ago we opened a new boutique at 22 Rue de Grenelle on the Left Bank. We’re looking at London for 2015, and New York, of course.

What’s changed for you personally?
My personal life changed. I quit smoking. People start recognizing you—I feel like a singer or something. They see me riding my scooter around town and yell, “Ami!” I love that people love the brand. They recognize my red bonnet—it’s not a gimmick, I’ve been wearing one since I was a kid. My father just unearthed a picture of me at age 8 wearing one. It’s like we’re creating this little character—people are coming to expect it. I was in Tokyo recently, and all these young people were asking me where that bonnet was, so I had to go back to the hotel and get it.

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What’s different about the new boutique compared with the original one on the Boulevard Beaumarchais?
I love the Left Bank. My mother worked in a shop there for a while. I love the energy of that neighborhood. The idea was a tailor’s shop, a neighborhood place, with a coffee bar in back. I wanted it to be chic but easy. And a photographer friend, Nicolas Wagner, is putting up a rogues’ gallery of friends wearing a red bonnet.

What should we expect from your show this Saturday?
We’re doing it at this very French high school, the Lycée Carnot. I wanted to stage a little youthquake, starting in the cradle of amitié [friendship]. That means a lot of color—yellow, red, blue, green—oversize coats, technical fabrics. But there will always be a navy jacket and a camel coat at Ami. We’re also doing more accessories, like backpacks and sneakers. I just want it to be fun, joyful, and no beards.

Why did you gravitate toward this youthful theme?
When I was in fashion school, people were less invested in their personal style—we couldn’t be, we had no money. Today, I notice that even the students are really styled and there are always super-interesting things going on in the street. When you look at young people, you realize that they are seriously cool. That said, my mother thinks I dress like a teenager—she’s shocked that I don’t wear socks with my sneakers.

This question’s been following you since Ami opened: What about women’s clothes?
I like keeping Ami for men, although women do buy our clothes. When I sketch, it’s always [a] masculine [silhouette], even if it’s on a feminine form. I love dressing women in menswear—Caroline de Maigret walked for us in January wearing a men’s suit. I say without pretense that I love what Hedi Slimane did with Dior Homme for Parisian youth. Also, I just finished working for Bally on a women’s collection that will be available next season—they gave me carte blanche, and I really had fun with it. I have one other collaboration coming up. But we’ve registered Ami(e), and I am thinking about a capsule of iconic men’s pieces for women. No dresses. But I’m 33. I have time!

What’s your creative process?
I don’t really have creative hang-ups—I can sketch out a collection at the dinner table with friends. You have to know yourself. When I first worked at Givenchy men’s with Riccardo [Tisci], we did pink lace Bermudas for Spring 2005. But I realized I couldn’t do that, and that’s why I would have made a lousy assistant. Later on, I realized that I did not want to design things that I could not afford myself. Fashion is dangerous that way. There’s an imbalance between dreaming up a dress that costs a bomb and the real world.

So what is your ambition?
I have an ego. But being a star or going on vacation with celebrities or whatever is not the goal. If it happens naturally, great. But I know who I am and what my reality is. C’est ça la vie [That's what life's all about].

2014 ANDAM Finalists Revealed

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This morning, ANDAM announced its 2014 Fashion Prize finalists. Fausto Puglisi, Iris van Herpen, Steven Tai, Rad Hourani, Yiqing Yin, Études Studio, and Jean-Paul Lespagnard will compete for the award, the winner of which will be announced in Paris this July. Last year’s prize was awarded to menswear youngblood Alexander Mattiusi, while other alums include Giles Deacon, Richard Nicoll, and Gareth Pugh. The ANDAM Fashion Prize, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, offers designers a 250,000 Euro prize, a yearlong business mentorship courtesy of Kering’s François-Henri Pinault, and 10,000 Euros of Swarovski crystals. Another trio of talents, Coperni, Gauchère and Monographie, are up for the 75,000 euros First Collections prize. “I am very honored to be apart of this year’s finalists. The ANDAM Award is one of the most globally recognized support for designers over the last 25 years. I am incredibly excited (and a bit nervous too!) to present my work to the jury,” offered Steven Tai. Speaking of the jury, this years judges include Ellen von Unwerth, Caroline de Maigret, Condé Nast France president Xavier Romatet, and Style.com’s own Nicole Phelps, among others. Have a gander at some of the finalists’ designs here.

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Photo: Courtesy Photos 

Welcome to the ANDAM Family

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Ellen Von UnwerthThe 25th annual ANDAM Fashion Award ceremony will take place on July 3, and today it was announced that seven new judges will be joining the expert panel. John Demsey (group president, Estée Lauder Companies Inc.), Caroline de Maigret (music producer and model), Stefano Martinetto (CEO, Tomorrow London Ltd.), François-Henri Pinault (CEO, Kering), Xavier Romatet (CEO, Condé Nast France), Anne-Sophie Von Clear (Le Figaro), and Ellen von Unwerth (photographer, pictured left) will determine who will win the grand prize of 250,000 euros and far-reaching global recognition. The new team joins such returning judges as curator Pamela Golbin, Colette’s Sarah Andelman, and Style.com’s Nicole Phelps.

Photo: Leandro Justen/BFANYC.com