13 posts tagged "ANDAM"
Julien David has emerged as one of Paris’ hottest up-and-comers since launching his line in Spring 2011 (and winning the 2012 ANDAM prize). He has an artful approach to even the most basic of ensembles (think high-tech fabric hoodies and textural, tulle-embellished T-shirt frocks), and he’s proven that his finger is on the pulse of creative culture. So it’s perhaps not surprising that he’s worked with one of fashion’s favorite artists, the impossibly cool Aaron Young, for his Fall ’14 show, which is set for 1 p.m. tomorrow at Paris’ Palais de Tokyo. Young, who met the Japan-based David while visiting Tokyo, has lent the designer two of his gilded barricade sculptures to enhance the ambience of the presentation.
“Every season I try to present a new idea of what can be considered high-end fashion,” David told Style.com. “I do it progressively, working concepts and techniques little by little. The two keywords for Fall ’14 are ‘control’ and ‘release.’ I wanted to show my taste for mixing references that are not generally used together, and build the collection around those opposite things.” He felt that Young’s sculptures were the perfect complement to this concept. “I asked Aaron to lend me two of his beautiful barricade sculptures for the show. They’re totally crunched up but dipped in 24-karat gold. They’re a nice analogy for this season’s materials and fabric manipulation.” Have a look at Young’s sculptures, above, and don’t miss David’s show tomorrow afternoon.
AMI‘s Alexandre Mattiussi won this year’s ANDAM Fashion Prize in Paris yesterday, beating out an international list of contenders that included Olympia Le-Tan, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Iris Van Herpen, Yang Li, and Masha Ma. Mattiussi will receive 250,000 euros and mentoring from Renzo Rosso. ANDAM’s First Collection Prize went to Christine Phung. She’ll take home 75,000 euros. At the cocktail party that followed the competition, Mattiussi revealed that he and Phung were in the same class at France’s Duperré School. Mattiussi does menswear and Phung women’s, but they took similar paths to launching their own lines, apprenticing at different houses—Givenchy and Marc Jacobs for his part, and Christophe Lemaire, Chloé, Vanessa Bruno, Lacoste, and Dior for hers. An award ceremony will take place on October 3, during Paris Fashion Week.
“I always like to do fun, quirky things,” said Olympia Le-Tan, the French designer best known for her clever, literary handbags. Having presented her Bavarian-inspired Fall 2013 ready-to-wear collection in Paris’ Museum of Hunting and Nature last March, Le-Tan wanted to incorporate the space, which she recalls was filled with “heads of deer and things like that,” into her lookbook. Shot by Yannis Vlamos, Le-Tan’s Fall 2013 posters feature her Germanic pinup wares topped with drawings of various fauna heads—think foxes, deer, and bears—all of which were penned by her father, famed French illustrator Pierre Le-Tan. “We share a similar creative vision,” said the designer of her pops, who also creates the prints for her collections. “And I must say, I really like the smiley face he did (above). That was a bit of a liberty he took.”
In addition to the animal visages, Le-Tan’s lookbook boasts images snapped by Ellen von Unwerth (above), who, in part, influenced the sexed-up looks. “I thought the clothes were very her,” the designer offered. At the moment, Le-Tan is holed up in her Paris studio, working on her Spring collection, as well as her portfolio for the ANDAM competition—she was nominated for the coveted prize earlier this year and will compete against Alexandre Mattiussi, Masha Ma, Iris van Herpen, and others on July 4. “I’m nervous and excited,” she told Style.com. “I really don’t like losing, so I’m working very hard to make sure that I don’t.”
Considering the winner receives a cool 250,000 euros and a two-season mentorship from Italian fashion tycoon Renzo Rosso, the ANDAM Fashion Award is one of the most coveted in the biz. And today, the group announced the seven finalists being considered for the 2013 prize. This year, AMI designer Alexandre Mattiussi, the ever-quirky Olympia Le-Tan (left), Yang Li, Pedro Lourenço, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Masha Ma, and conceptual couturier Iris van Herpen will be competing for the honor. The winner, whose spoils will also include his or her Spring ’14 collection being sold in Canadian department store Hudson’s Bay Company, 10,000 euros worth of Swarovski Crystals to use on his or her Spring ’14 collection, and support from Fashion GPS over the next two years, will be chosen by a panel of industry insiders—including Colette’s Sarah Andelman, Humberto Leon, Paris Vogue‘s Emmanuelle Alt, and Style.com‘s executive editor Nicole Phelps—in Paris on July 4. Previous winners include Anthony Vaccarello, Giles Deacon, Richard Nicoll, and Gareth Pugh.
Emmanuelle Alt, Sarah Andelman, Renzo Rosso, and other jurors on this year’s Andam Fashion Award panel, myself included, gathered at the Ritz in Paris this afternoon to choose this year’s winner. In the running for the €230,000 prize were Cédric Charlier, Julien David, Vika Gazinskaya, Calla Haynes, Nicolas Andreas Taralis, and Thomas Tait. As ever, it was a cosmopolitan crew, with designers hailing from Belgium, Russia, Canada, and Germany, but David, the competition’s Frenchman, came out ahead. (A look from his well-received Fall ’12 show is pictured, left.)
For the moment, the designer’s business is based in Japan, but he’ll be spending more time on his native soil—the award requires the recipient to found and operate a company in France. Despite being an expat nearly half of his life—David left home at 18 to study at Parsons in New York and worked for Narciso Rodriguez and Ralph Lauren—he professed excitement at the prospect of coming home. “I had ideas I couldn’t execute in Japan because money was an issue,” he said. “I want to expand the collection concept, especially into areas that are unique to France, like embroideries.” The Prize Ceremony will take place tomorrow evening at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.
The young women behind the one-year-old label Piece d’Anarchive—sisters Priscilla and Déborah Royer and Virginie Muys—won ANDAM’s First Collection Award, which comes with a €60,000 check. The trio said they’ll use the funds to put on a September presentation of their Spring 2013 collection, which jurors got a sneak peek at. Newbies they may be, but they didn’t lack for presentation skills. Describing the sports-influenced collection, Priscilla evocatively promised “discipline dancing with ecstasy.”