10 posts tagged "Andrej Pejic"
“I can get out of a lot of things, but this dress is not one of them,” said burlesque star Dita Von Teese of the gown she donned to last night’s party at the Ace Hotel. The dress in question was the first fully articulated 3-D printed garment, which was conceptualized by designer Michael Schmidt. And the party, which drew the likes of Debbie Harry, Bob Gruen, and Andrej Pejic, served to toast its unveiling. “I was interested in finding the middle ground between the world of mathematics and the world of ephemeral beauty,” Schmidt told Style.com. The L.A.-based designer, who has crafted looks for stars like Madonna, Cher, and Lady Gaga (the latter wore his glass-bubble costume on the cover of Rolling Stone in 2009), conceived Von Teese’s frock with Fibonacci’s Golden Ratio in mind.
With the help of computational designer and architect Francis Bitonti, Schmidt used 3-D software to realize his space-age gown (think cinched waist and steroidal shoulders). The dress began as a digital rendering, which was then engineered in powdered nylon by high-tech collaborator Shapeways. “As an architect, it’s all about dealing with facades, and this was just about making a curvy one,” mused Bitonti. The body-skimming dress featured an undulating mesh silhouette of three thousand articulated joints fashioned out of layered nylon powder. As if that weren’t complicated enough, it also boasted twelve thousand Swarovski black crystals, which were painstakingly placed by hand after printing. “It’s obviously very futuristic, but I tried to retain a level of old-world glamour that was befitting of Dita,” added Schmidt. Indeed, the Blade Runner-meets-Bettie Page ensemble was worthy of the millennial pinup. “It’s superlight,” Von Teese mused later that evening after slipping into a demure Roland Mouret shift. But was it comfortable? “The only uncomfortable part is that I needed to be very cautious about how I walked. I had to make sure my heels wouldn’t get stuck in the hem.” Even in the future, glamour’s got its obstacles.
Out of the mystic comes “The Stars (Are Out Tonight),” a new Bowie video. This one is a lot less oblique than the video that artist Tony Oursler made for “Where Are We Now?,” the first single from Bowie’s startling comeback album, and that’s mostly because director Floria Sigismondi’s natural genius with a twisted narrative (case in point: Marilyn Manson’s “The Beautiful People” promo) gels so well with what one imagines is Bowie’s own predilection for the cinematically perverse. “The Stars” sumptuously elevates the man and the myth to new heights.
This particular offering toys with the androgyny, the bravado, the decadence, the desire that turns an ordinary human being into a raving fan. It also has a strong contemporary-fashion quotient, appropriate given that Bowie was, in a way that the upcoming exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum will surely clarify, always inclined to the fashion experiment—from the early days of his Kansai jumpsuits to McQueen frock coats and Hedi Slimane suits.
Stylist Jerry Stafford was responsible for dressing the cast of five for the two-day shoot in L.A.: models Saskia de Brauw, Andrej Pejic, and Iselin Steiro, plus Bowie himself and his co-star Tilda Swinton, with whom Stafford has worked for fifteen years. Stafford is, like me, a child of Bowie, but he says there was no time on the set for fandom. “Everyone understood they were part of something special.” There was one moment when Stafford presented Bowie with a long coat, explaining to him it was by a designer named Rick Owens. “More Rick Wakeman than Rick Owens,” was the response, Wakeman being the wizard-coat-wearing keyboard king of Brit prog rock. “He played piano on ‘Life on Mars?,’ ” chimed in Stafford, the sole moment when he let himself indulge his know-every-last-detail trainspotter obsession. “And, indeed, on the whole of Hunky Dory,” Bowie said with a knowing smile. Continue Reading “Inside David Bowie’s “The Stars (Are Out Tonight)”” »
After producing a particularly ornate Spring ’13 range—filled with intricate, scale-like gilded wares and extended razor-sharp claw rings—jewelry designer Dominic Jones kept it clean for Fall. “I felt it should be a reaction to the previous collection,” he explained. The result was a fusion of tribal adornments and stark futurism realized in white gold. “I wanted this season to be minimalist, almost Scandinavian,” said the designer, noting that the disk shapes of his earrings and necklaces, as well as his Fall talon motifs, came from traditional African jewelry. “I think it actually looks quite sci-fi, though,” he mused.
Indeed, his geometric cuff and jointed, slatted ring have a punk-tinged intergalactic edge, and Jones chose to emphasize this space-age feel in his Fall ’13 film. Styled by Victoria Young (Jones says he appreciates her brutal honesty) and lensed by Alex Sainsbury, the raw short lets Jones’ slick wares shine. But the video, which debuts exclusively below, isn’t the designer’s only cinematic triumph this week—those killer claws from last season are worn by Andrej Pejic in David Bowie’s new music vid, “The Stars (Are Out Tonight),” which was released yesterday. “It was a dream that I never even could have dreamed, come true,” said Jones. “I’ve been a fan of his since I was a baby.”
Dominic Jones is available at Barneys, The Webster, and on Net-a-Porter.com.
First, it was meggings. Now mantyhose? According to an article in WWD, men’s pantyhose is a hot item at Emilio Cavallini. Popular styles include those printed with argyle, barbed wire, dots, and crossword puzzles. Quite frankly, we can’t say we’re surprised. What else would gentlemen wear with J.W. Anderson’s Fall ’13 men’s minidresses? With the gender lines blurring more by the minute (boys dressed like girls—think Andrej Pejic; girls dressed like boys, à la Saskia de Brauw, Casey Legler, and Tamy Glauser), this trend—while perhaps surprising at first—actually sort of makes sense. Mantyhose are basically just printed long underwear, which men are apparently donning with shorts (questionable), under ripped jeans (sensible), and as a cozy sock alternative. (Lisa Cavallini told WWD that her male clientele likes the patterns peeking out from their shoes.) If Rick Owens can champion the men’s heel and Marc Jacobs can wear a lace dress, why not push stockings for boys? However, we have a feeling they’d catch on faster if they weren’t called “mantyhose.”
From J.W. Anderson‘s tube tops and frilled shorts (above right) to Meadham Kirchhoff‘s tunics and skirts to Sibling‘s fluffy cotton-candy-pink shorts, London’s up-and-coming designers put some extreme feminine twists on their Fall ’13 menswear collections. But while men (who aren’t Marc Jacobs or Andrej Pejic, that is) may be a little hesitant to jump on the gender-bending bandwagon, it would seem that women are, once again, craving an androgynous edge. The proof? Due to popular demand, menswear designers are creating looks tailored just for the ladies. For instance, as deputy editor Matthew Schneier reported from Pitti Uomo yesterday, Andrea Pompilio sent out nine cross-dressing girls (above left) before allowing his male models to walk the Fall runway. “They ask so many times for very petite sizes for women, so why not do it?” he said after the show. Over in London, E. Tautz‘s Patrick Grant was feeling the same pressure. “We just started a very small line of women’s shirts, which kicked off at the request of one of the stores in Japan—who came to our men’s show and asked if they could have small versions of our men’s shirts,” Grant told British Vogue, hinting that a full-on Savile Row-inspired womenswear range might be in his future (the shirt capsule will be available at Matches.com this spring). Of course, shes dressed like hes isn’t a revolutionary trend (Le Smoking, anyone?), but the overlap of his and hers styles in the men’s collections certainly has our attention. So, are designers pushing us to become a bunch of sexless style-ites? Hardly. But if you’re tempted to walk in the other gender’s shoes, Fall ’13′s menswear will more than afford you the opportunity.