15 posts tagged "Andrew Rosen"
After four years at the helm of Theory, artistic director Olivier Theyskens is out. The Belgian-born designer, who was tapped by the contemporary megabrand’s CEO Andrew Rosen in 2010 and debuted his first Theyskens’ Theory collection for Fall 2011, will show his final designs for the brand for Pre-Spring 2015. While editors fell hard for his perfect flared pants and signature slim blazers, his namesake Theory line was discontinued when it didn’t sell well in stores. This past February, he showed under the main label.
“It has been an amazing opportunity to work with Andrew and to benefit from his knowledge in this dynamic segment of fashion,” Theyskens told WWD. The designer, who served as artistic director for Nina Ricci and creative director at Rochas (and famously first rose to fame when Madonna wore his dress to the Oscars back in the nineties), is reportedly set to work on new design projects. The details on his new endeavors have yet to be revealed.
Today, after eight years at the house’s creative helm, Michael and Nicole Colovos have stepped down from their post at Helmut Lang, Style.com has learned. The husband-and-wife team, who presented a critically acclaimed Fall ’14 collection in New York just weeks ago, helped to rebrand Helmut Lang as a contemporary label after its namesake designer’s departure in 2005. The new creative leadership of the brand will be announced in the coming months. “I want to extend my sincere thanks to Michael and Nicole for their commitment to the house and its successful evolution into a leading force in the contemporary marketplace. I am confident in their future and wish them all the best,” said Andrew Rosen, CEO of Helmut Lang’s parent company, Link Theory Holdings, in a statement. The split was apparently a simple, clean break. “We are grateful for the opportunity that Andrew gave us to reestablish Helmut Lang. We will always have a deep affection for the brand,” offered the designers. There is no news yet of the couple’s plans. The Resort ’15 collection will be developed by Helmut Lang’s existing design team.
Last year, Gill Linton launched Byronesque.com, a comprehensive Web site that, backed by Andrew Rosen and the late Marvin Traub, offers high-end vintage wares and sharp editorials. The online platform boasts a veritable treasure trove of rare, authenticated vintage designs, like an azure Jean Paul Gaultier frock, an asymmetrical Yohji Yamamoto dress, and a bevy of Thierry Mugler and Alaïa. And while it all looks spectacular in one’s browser, Linton felt she should create an IRL experience with the digital destination’s best stock.
Enter the site’s first brick-and-mortar venture, Byronesque.com//Offline, an exhibition and boutique housed in the dilapidated annex of the James A. Farley Post Office in New York City. Offline is complete with video installations, melancholic wall art by Craig Ward, and a vault of approximately forty impeccably dressed mannequins. Yesterday evening, insiders gathered to fete the project, which was punctuated with a live Polaroid photography session by the inimitable Michèle Lamy. “It’s difficult to [decide] what is mainstream or not…but being here feels real, and what they are trying to do is very important,” Lamy said of the site.
“There’s so much potential in vintage fashion,” said Linton. “It’s made better, there’s a story behind it, and there’s a history behind it. The way I merchandise the store is through storytelling—there’s a curve of Vivienne Westwood from Pirate to Seditionaries, for example—but it’s not that it has to be a linear progression. It’s about the energy of stuff.”
The stuff on display includes a 1984 John Galliano men’s kimono coat from his graduate Central Saint Martins collection, Les Incroyables (not for sale); a burlap Alexander McQueen look from F/W ’02; a 1986 Azzedine Alaïa leather zip dress; and a Katharine Hamnett allover marijuana-leaf-print bodysuit.
Glenn O’Brien lent his support by co-hosting the affair. “Everybody mixes vintage in,” he said, “I can’t tell you how long I’ve had this Kilgour, French, & Stanbury coat; it must be twenty years since I bought it at Barneys. Vintage is kind of where the next ideas come from. You can be a step ahead by wearing something that’s so out that it’s just about ready to come back.”
Byronesque.com//Offline will open to the public on December 12 and run through the 15th. Located at the James A. Farley Post Office on Eighth Avenue at West 31st Street, the show will be open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
It’s not just rescue puppies and Paris’ École des Beaux-Arts that have fallen into Ralph Lauren’s good graces of late. Today, WWD reports that the designer’s company has donated $500,000 to the Fashion Manufacturing Initiative, which, launched last month by the CFDA, Theory CEO Andrew Rosen, and the New York City Economic Development Corp., aims to raise funds to help New York’s garment industry thrive. It’s nice to see that the New York-born Lauren (who caught some flack for producing the RL-designed 2012 Olympic uniforms in China) is rallying to support the home team.