21 posts tagged "Ann Demeulemeester"
It’s rare to see new designers joining the Milan fashion week ranks. Rarer still for that designer to be a Chinese woman. Uma Wang, an alumnus of China Textile University and Central Saint Martins in London and the founder of a nearly seven-year-old eponymous line with a flagship store in Shanghai, made her Italian debut on Sunday night. Guests who managed to squeeze her show in between Aquilano.Rimondi and Versus witnessed a collection from the Yohji Yamamoto and Ann Demeulemeester school of fashion. Colors were mostly blacks and neutrals, with a hit or two of red, and her cuts, for the most part, were asymmetric and unconstructed. There was a focus on innovative knitwear and dramatic coats—often in one piece. It’s too soon to say if Wang will be back next season (she showed in Paris once last year), but wherever she ends up, she’s a designer to watch.
Ann Demeulemeester’s dreaming of a black Christmas. For the holiday season, the designer created a capsule collection of four black pieces, for men and women, in collaboration with the online retailer TheCorner.com; Ann Demeulemeester (thecorner.com), as the collection is known, will go online on November 22.
To celebrate the capsule collection—which consists of a leather and cotton waistcoat, a cotton cashmere tank top, a pair of pants, and a shopper bag, ranging in price from $430 for the top to $1,290 for the waistcoat—Demeulemeester commissioned artist Erik Madigan Heck, who has worked with Kenzo and Mary Katrantzou, to shoot an 8mm short film in Antwerp featuring the collection. “It’s beautiful how a human being brings a garment to life,” Demeulemeester tells Style.com. “The inexplicable mystery and contrast of a man and a woman and how they intrigue. My aim has always been to incorporate authentic feelings in my work. Erik Madigan Heck’s short movie is a beautiful expression of this.” For his part, Heck described the film earlier this year in conversation with Style.com. “I’m in love with it,” he said at the time. “It’s very blown out, and the models look like angels appearing and disappearing.” The film premieres exclusively below on Style.com.
Giambattista Valli, Dries Van Noten, Haider Ackermann, Ann Demeulemeester—those are just a few of the heavy hitters photographer Erik Madigan Heck has worked with over the past few years. It’s no wonder those big names are knocking at his door. Just take a look at the images from his hyper-colored Surreal Planes series with Mary Katrantzou (Janice Alida is wearing a Fall 2011 runway look). The anthology and corresponding exhibition feature his work from the past eight months (including images from his Artist as Muse series for A Magazine, where he is a regular contributor). Style.com spoke with Heck about art, fashion, and playing hooky during NYFW.
What do you find interesting about fashion as a photography subject?
That it is malleable; it can become anything, or be a catalyst to do anything else with it.
Tell me a little bit about your working methods. How, for example, did you achieve the high-pigmented color look in those portraits you did for Mary Katrantzou?
My working methods are pretty simple; I like to have a small closed set, one assistant, natural light, and an outside or small studio space. On Mary Katrantzou, that’s a secret, but it’s not how you would think.
What kind of camera do you use?
I use an old Canon EOS 630 film camera.
Tell me a little bit more about the exhibition/book itself. What’s your favorite image in the series?
The book took two months of hard work in terms of designing and laying out, and then obviously shooting all the work this year was intense, but the book just happened naturally. It felt like the right moment. My favorite works are probably the A Return to Giverny series—I want to live in those photographs. Continue Reading “What The Heck” »
“Revenge is beautiful.” It’s more than the tagline for the new Zoe Saldana film Colombiana. It’s the operating principle behind the female badass movie. Recall Angelina Jolie’s Lara Croft in short shorts and a low-cut tank that revealed décolletage and deltoids in equal measure. As Colombiana‘s costume designer Olivier Bériot put it, the wardrobe in these movies is “a little bit unreal, but that’s as much for the men in the audience (‘she’s sexy!’ [they're thinking]) as it is for the women (‘she’s powerful’).”
Saldana’s dangerous woman fits the accustomed mold, but there are others these days who are breaking it. In David Fincher’s upcoming The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo, Rooney Mara sports bleached eyebrows, piercings, and an asymmetrical, dyed-black haircut that is, to quote Stieg Larsson, as “short as a fuse.” (And if you ask us, she bears an uncanny resemblance to model of the moment Saskia de Brauw.) The wintery white Inuit-inspired clothes that costume designer Lucie Bates created for Saoirse Ronan in Hanna, meanwhile, flouted genre convention; still, her character, a 16-year-old trained assassin, was no less efficient at her tasks.
Black, of course, is the wardrobe color of choice for screen killers—and for their deadly chic counterparts on the runways. In his review of Ann Demeulemeester’s Fall collection, Tim Blanks likened her models to “a lost tribe of Amazonian warrior women,” their bodies slung with bandoliers stuffed with feathers instead of bullets. Ohne Titel’s Alexa Adams and Flora Gill similarly amplified the human form, cutting a shearling leather and knit jacket with exaggerated, full sleeves. “It’s about the embrace of the female body,” Adams said, “but not being afraid of its powerful side.”
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW, and let us know if you’re ready to embrace your inner badass.
After trekking from Hong Kong to Shanghai, Joyce Hong Kong’s celebratory 40th anniversary exhibition has arrived in Paris. And considering the show includes archived looks from over 50 designers on the store’s stock list, like Lanvin, Stella McCartney, and Alexander McQueen, it’s one to see. “Joyce was a pioneer of bringing luxury to Asia. And the way that the Joyce label has moved on, the way that they’ve made new stores and new lines, makes it really a 40 years to celebrate,” said Suzy Menkes at a fête for the retailer yesterday evening. According to Joyce president Andrew Keith, the brand felt the best way to celebrate this milestone was to share it with as many people as possible. Judging by the fact that the traveling exhibition has already had 200,000 visitors, he seems to be doing just that.
On display at the Joyce Gallery in the Palais Royal are a polka-dotted YSL trench dress from 2003, a vivacious Oscar de la Renta sequined jacket and electric peach feather skirt from 1992, and a crystal-embellished Givenchy frock from 2008. Those years are significant—they represent when the designers were first sold in the store. And adding to the appeal are two interactive tables with glowing touch screens that reveal designer bios, collections, and a host of images from the Joyce archive, and video interviews with designers such as Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, conducted by former Joyce magazine editor and current veil-clad fashion maven Diane Pernet.