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22 posts tagged "Ann Demeulemeester"

A History Seen In Sequins


After trekking from Hong Kong to Shanghai, Joyce Hong Kong’s celebratory 40th anniversary exhibition has arrived in Paris. And considering the show includes archived looks from over 50 designers on the store’s stock list, like Lanvin, Stella McCartney, and Alexander McQueen, it’s one to see. “Joyce was a pioneer of bringing luxury to Asia. And the way that the Joyce label has moved on, the way that they’ve made new stores and new lines, makes it really a 40 years to celebrate,” said Suzy Menkes at a fête for the retailer yesterday evening. According to Joyce president Andrew Keith, the brand felt the best way to celebrate this milestone was to share it with as many people as possible. Judging by the fact that the traveling exhibition has already had 200,000 visitors, he seems to be doing just that.

On display at the Joyce Gallery in the Palais Royal are a polka-dotted YSL trench dress from 2003, a vivacious Oscar de la Renta sequined jacket and electric peach feather skirt from 1992, and a crystal-embellished Givenchy frock from 2008. Those years are significant—they represent when the designers were first sold in the store. And adding to the appeal are two interactive tables with glowing touch screens that reveal designer bios, collections, and a host of images from the Joyce archive, and video interviews with designers such as Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, conducted by former Joyce magazine editor and current veil-clad fashion maven Diane Pernet.

Photo: Courtesy of Joyce

If Only All Ambassadors Dressed Like This


Browns has been an English institution for four decades now. Mrs. B isn’t one to let an occasion like that go under-celebrated. For the store’s 40th anniversary, the pioneering retailer—who brought Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and Sonia Rykiel to England and was an early booster of Hussein Chalayan and Marios Schwab—put together an exhibition, opening tomorrow, of 40 Browns “ambassadors” in finery pulled from its archives. Paolo Roversi shot Marc Jacobs in Halston (above), Eva Herzigova in Mark Fast, and Ann Demeulemeester in her own collection (both below), among many others. And as for Mrs. B herself? The lady chose Marni for her close-up (bottom, left). Continue Reading “If Only All Ambassadors Dressed Like This” »

A.F. Vandevorst: The Music Video


There’s luxe and there’s luxe and then there’s Nomenus Quarterly, Erik Madigan Heck’s $6,500 seasonal journal—arguably the most expensive magazine-cum-art piece there is. That more-is-more sensibility has endeared Heck to the high-fashion brands of the world, many of which have turned up in Nomenus‘ pages. Tonight at the Chelsea Art Museum, Heck’s photos featuring the work of Demeulemeester, Lacroix, and Rodarte from quarterlies past go on display, alongside a new video piece Heck created featuring the designs of the Belgian duo A.F. Vandevorst. “I had filmed A.F.’s show in Paris with my Super 8 mm camera and wanted to extend their collection into a performance piece,” Heck explains. “I arranged for a performance of Fratres [by the contemporary Estonian composer Arvo Pärt], to be played by four celloists in New York and in Rome, who were all wearing A.F.’s collection. I felt that their collection was best represented by this piece of music.” A.F. Vandevorst have used cellos before—their Fall 2000 show was scored by a live cellist, Filip Arickx reminded us—but the moody collaboration is certainly something new. At the very least, it marks the first juxtaposition of the designers’ work and merry-go-rounds. Have a look, below.

The Belges Of The Ball


For a country roughly the size of Maryland, Belgium has had an outsize influence on fashion over the past two decades. Dries Van Noten, Veronique Branquinho, Ann Demeulemeester, Olivier Theyskens, and Raf Simons are among the many who hail from there and who studied at the famous Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. And it appears that Belgium is the fashion gift that keeps on giving: This season, Showroom Antwerp is exporting seven emerging Belgian designers (and their collections) to New York fashion week. Anke Loh, Anna Heylen, Idriz Jossa, Lenny Leleu, Marc-Phillipe Coudeyre, Peter Ceursters, and Stephan Schneider will be taking up residence at Flanders House in midtown today; of these, Schneider is the locally familiar name, selling his clean, detail-driven menswear (pictured) at stores such Project No. 8 and Opening Ceremony. Schneider presents his collections in Paris but says that increasing interest from the U.S. media and retailers compelled him to bring his Fall ’10 wares to New York for a look-see. “This season seemed the right moment for us to join New York fashion week,” he explains.

Photo: Courtesy of Stephan Schneider

Nicholas, Chloé, Ann, And More Take On Alice


Last week, we previewed a sketch of Nicholas Kirkwood’s Alice in Wonderland-inspired heels, made on commission for the French department store Printemps, which is giving over its windows to all things Alice through March. (Sad to say, they’re window-only—you’ll have to find another pair to wear to the theater.) For the installation, Kirkwood is joined by Ann Demeulemeester, Alexander McQueen, Bernhard Willhelm, Charles Anastase, Christopher Kane, Chloé, Haider Ackermann, Manish Arora, and Maison Martin Margiela, each of whom were given a window to fill as they saw fit. The windows went up this week in Paris. Below, takes a tour through the various Wonderlands and asks a few of the participating designers and design teams about their trip there.

The windows are on view through March 14 at Printemps, 64 Boulevard Haussmann, Paris, 33-1-42-82-57-87,

“I think my favorite Alice character is the March Hare. You can see I’ve made his watch rather prominent. This was a different design process for me, because I’m not usually so applicative—typically, I’m thinking about line, silhouette. But this time, I figured, why not just pile as much as I can on top?” —Nicholas Kirkwood

“I went to John Tenniel’s original illustration of Alice for inspiration. She’s seated at a table having tea, and her dress looks much more asymmetrical and theatrical than that boring Walt Disney version. It was also an auto-reference to my collections, as Lewis Carroll’s work has been one of the main inspirations of my label since its creation. Alice Liddell, the real little girl with long dark hair who inspired Carroll, is one of the very few icons that I have. The pictures of her are a constant inspiration for me.” —Charles Anastase
Continue Reading “Nicholas, Chloé, Ann, And More Take On Alice” »