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July 30 2014

styledotcom A beloved Oakland book shop sets up in NoHo: stylem.ag/1nU8GWE cc @donetodeath pic.twitter.com/cPEOlo2pyW

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25 posts tagged "Anna Sui"

How Sui It Is

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Anna Sui is a fashion lifer, with a 20-year career in the industry and, now, a 300-page retrospective coffee-table book to show for it. “As a designer, you never have time to look back because you’re always looking six months forward to next season,” Sui said at a signing of the book in New York last night. “To be honest, I’d completely forgotten about so much of the good stuff.”

Anna Sui, penned by the designer’s close friend Andrew Bolton, the curator of the Met’s Costume Institute, goes collection by collection through Sui’s label, interspersed with the many fashion editorials and boldfaced friends who’ve made her a force to be reckoned with from the start. After all, before she ever sent her first collection down the runway for Fall 1991, the Biba-wearing club kid was already dressing Madonna up in baby dolls. (A few of those boldfacers also contributed to the text: Jack White of the White Stripes—husband of Sui’s longtime muse Karen Elson—contributed a preface, where he notes that his favorite of his wife’s dresses always turn out to be Sui’s; Steven Meisel wrote the introduction)

Bolton wades through Sui’s wide-ranging fonts of inspiration, which include everything from Marie Antoinette to rococo pirates to Andy Warhol’s Factory parties—not to mention Sui’s greatest inspiration, music. “Watching one of Anna’s collections is like watching MTV,” Meisel writes. “You see the Clash, Nirvana, the Sex Pistols, the Smashing Pumpkins, Siouxsie and the Banshees, the Red Hot Chili Peppers.” You also see, in Anna Sui, the procession of fashion greats from the nineties, as in the iconic finale of Sui’s 1994 grunge collection: the supe trifecta of Christy, Naomi, and Linda, strutting down the catwalk in feathered headpieces.

PLUS: For more Anna Sui, check out our video of Sui chatting with Marc Jacobs on the occasion of her CFDA Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award.

Photo: Courtesy of Anna Sui

Seventh Avenue Saviors, Zac Without Susan, Officer Tamara, And More…

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Designers from Anna Sui to Yigal Azrouël mobilized for yesterday’s Garment District rally, where protesters called for rezoning that would protect and, hopefully, create more manufacturing jobs. As per the demonstrators’ posters, supporting the fashion industry is “sew New York.” [WWD]

Susan Posen, a.k.a. Mom of Zac, stepped down from her role as acting CEO of her son’s company yesterday, a move that coincides with Susan Davidson’s recent hire. Insert “leaving to spend more time with her family” joke here. [WWD]

Tamara Mellon wore Dolce & Gabbana (and, one imagines, Jimmy Choos) to pick up her OBE today from the Queen. Can we expect a Union Jack heel from the newly minted Officer of the Order of the British Empire? Or, better yet, Her Majesty in stilettos? [Grazia]

And finally, your dress-like-a-Jersey Shore-star update: Snooki’s slippers are available for pre-order, but J-WOWW’s Filthy Couture line has been shut down. We’re calling that a lose-win kind of situation. [NY Mag and Radar]

The Big Business Behind “Made In New York”

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This morning, representatives from the CFDA, the New York City Economic Development Corporation, and the Design Trust for Public Space unveiled Made in Midtown, their report on New York’s historic Garment District. Designers Narciso Rodriguez, Reed Krakoff, Anna Sui, John Bartlett, and Yeohlee Teng were all on hand for the announcement of the report (and its accompanying Web site, where browsers can peruse its findings). Even if infographics aren’t your idea of a good time, it’s well worth a read to find out what comes before the Made in New York label. Namely, $31 billion in revenue (from the nine New York fashion companies on the Fortune 1000 list alone), more than 172,000 jobs (about 5 percent of all the government and private sector jobs in NYC), and more fashion businesses headquartered here than in Paris and Milan combined. Head to www.madeinmidtown.org to learn more.

Photo: madeinmidtown.org

Sophie Dahl: Happiness Is A Warm…Cup Of Tea

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What makes Sophie Dahl happy? A quiet cup of tea. For Alice Temperley, it’s luxuriating in a warm bath. Christian Slater is partial to watching original Star Trek reruns while Vivienne Westwood loves a good laugh with her husband. And photographer Lorraine Goddard has photographed each of them doing just that, all in the name of a good cause: She’s shooting joy to help create it, donating profits to Young Minds, a children’s mental health charity.

Goddard, the ex-wife of Adam Ant and PR maven to Dame Westwood, knows a thing or two about depression; her ex suffered from it in a very public way. Undaunted, she set her lens on the flipside—joy and comfort—and rounded up a group of high-profile friends, including Zac Posen, Anna Sui, Amy Sacco, and Dita Von Teese, to sit for her. The private view of her Out of Context exhibit at London’s Getty Images Gallery last night brought many of her subjects, including Mary McCartney, Alice Temperley, Bella Freud, and Joe Corre. (Many later decamped to the Sanderson Hotel courtyard to continue the party.) “Lorraine asked me to be photographed and of course I said yes,” said jeweler Stephen Webster. “I didn’t know what it was for, but it didn’t matter—whatever she does, I would back. Anyone who knows her would.” That’s the kind of support that should make the photographer pretty happy herself.

For more information or to donate, visit www.lorrainegoddard.co.uk.

The Past Perfect At James Coviello

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If James Coviello ever decides to hang up his fashion hat, it’s comforting to know he’s got a bright future as an antiques dealer waiting as a very viable plan B. The designer—who got into millinery when pal Anna Sui needed some headgear for a Steven Meisel shoot she was styling, followed it up with stints at Oscar, Calvin, and Todd Oldham, and launched a full apparel collection of his own in 2000—has an expansive collection of antiques, just the sort that come in handy when you’re opening your own store. His Orchard Street shop, which opened last night, recalls a bustling ladies’ emporium of the nineteenth century. Dresses hang on cast-iron brackets, chapeaux sit in sliding-glass case doors, and the entire scene is lit with brass gas lamp fixtures. Even the 23-karat gold-leaf storefront sign was sourced through a guy in New Jersey who still executes the process as it was done over 100 years ago. Sui, on hand to host, took a moment to pick out a French porcelain vase for herself. Interested customers can do the same. In addition to his ready-to-wear collection, Coviello will be offering lifestyle items, too: French soaps, vintage letterpress stationery and carved graphite pencils, and home decor like the exquisite taxidermy-and-floral-arrangement bell jars that he designs.

70 Orchard St., NYC, www.jamescoviello.com.

Photo: Courtesy of James Coviello