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April 20 2014

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5 posts tagged "Annabel Tollman"

In Memoriam: Remembering Those Who Passed in 2013

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The new year is just around the corner, but before we move on to 2014, we pause to celebrate a few of the innovators who passed away this year. Below are some of the legends to whom we say good-bye.

In Memoriam: Remembering those who passed in 2013

Ottavio and Vittorio Missoni
There’s no denying the colorful imprint that Missoni has had, and continues to leave, on Italian fashion since it was first created by Italian impresario Ottavio Missoni and his wife, Rosita, in 1958. Having contributed to the rise of Italian ready-to-wear, Ottavio, ever the patriarch, peacefully passed this May at 92, having bequeathed the reigns of the family empire to his children, Angela, Luca, and the late Vittorio, in the nineties. Vittorio, formerly the CEO of Missoni, who was credited with bringing the brand and its signature zigzag knits global, tragically disappeared, at age 58, with his partner in a plane crash off the coast of Venezuela in January of this year.
Related: Ottavio Missoni R.I.P. and Vittorio Missoni Missing Off Coast Of Venezuela

Lou Reed Lou Reed, the dark horse of rock ‘n’ roll whose artistry and lyricism profoundly influenced various generations of musicians, came into the limelight in the sixties with the Velvet Underground. Reed’s prolific work, which extended into a solo career up until the point of his death (this October, in Long Island, of liver disease at 71), grasped the attention of artists and politicians, like Andy Warhol and Czech leader Václav Havel, as well as his contemporaries, from Bob Dylan to Metallica.

Peter Kaplan
As Style.com’s editor in chief, Dirk Standen, wrote, Peter Kaplan was inimitable. Kaplan was best recognized for his editorial prowess as the single longest-standing editor (fifteen years) of The New York Observer, and he set the tone for the media industry to follow by covering the cultish intrigue of New York City’s elite, politicians, and power brokers. His extensive career, which included working at Time magazine, The New York Times, and Charlie Rose, prior to his tenure at the Observer, last saw him as the editorial director of Condé Nast’s Fairchild Fashion Group, of which Style.com is a part. Kaplan, age 59, passed of lymphoma.
Related: Peter Kaplan, R.I.P.

Lilly Pulitzer
At 81, Lilly Pulitzer Rousseau, known simply as Lilly Pulitzer, which was also the name for her fashion line of chintzy, preppy print looks prevalent in Palm Beach, Florida (her base), and abroad, passed this April. The socialite-cum-designer began creating her tropical-inspired looks in the sixties and was oft quoted as saying, “It’s always summer somewhere.”
Related: Lilly Pulitzer Dies at 81

Deborah Turbeville
Deborah Turbeville, who passed in Manhattan at 81, in October of lung cancer, was one of fashion’s great photographic legends. Having assisted the late great lensman Richard Avedon, Turbeville worked as a fit model for Claire McCardell and saw a brief editorial stint at Harper’s Bazaar, before building her creative oeuvre on a commanding yet soft aesthetic with a dark and feminine mystique. Appearing everywhere from Vogue to W to The New York Times, her work radically defined imagery in the seventies.
Related: R.I.P. Deborah Turbeville and The Image Makers: Deborah Turbeville Continue Reading “In Memoriam: Remembering Those Who Passed in 2013″ »

R.I.P. Annabel Tollman

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Annabel Tollman New York-based stylist Annabel Tollman died unexpectedly last night, her agent confirmed to Style.com this morning. Tollman was a regular presence on the fashion scene, transitioning from a role as Interview‘s fashion director into an all-purpose stylist, commentator, brand ambassador, and television personality. (She worked with eBay’s fashion channel and had a fashion-based reality show in the works with Bravo; the expat Brit last spoke with Style.com about Kate Middleton’s Alexander McQueen wedding dress.) Memorials are pouring in to her Facebook page and elsewhere. She will be missed.

Photo: Benjamin Lozovsky/BFAnyc.com

We Ask The Brits:
How Would You Rate Kate?

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Kate Middleton wed Prince William this morning in what you’d have to describe as a fairy-tale wedding—and wearing what you’d have to describe as a fairy-tale dress. (More on the dress here.) In that, industry insiders say, she did a notch better than her predecessor at the last royal wedding of this size, Princess Diana. “The idea behind Diana’s was kind of fairy-tale, but the reality was more nightmare,” said Vanity Fair‘s Michael Roberts, reached by phone in Paris, “because when that dress emerged from the coach it was completely crumpled, there was just too much fabric. Whereas this was not too much fabric and manageable.”

The white and ivory dress, in satin gazar, was designed by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, reportedly in consultation with Middleton herself. Roberts, like all the experts we surveyed, was complimentary—”I thought she looked great,” he said. “Karl Lagerfeld was commentating [on French TV], and he’s a very severe critic normally, but he was taken by it,” Roberts added. “Very elegant. He was impressed by the amount of work behind it—and on the behind.”

Was the dress very McQueen? Opinions differed. “I think it had much more to do with traditional royal dressing than with McQueen, frankly. I think it had not very much of him, at all,” Roberts said. But Barneys creative ambassador at large Simon Doonan, a fellow Brit, caught a glimpse of the late designer in it. “McQueen had a great interest in history,” he said. “This is a dress that’s created through the lens of history rather than through the lens of Hollywood. It somehow resonates a bit with Elizabeth I, because of the tight bodice. It was heavenly.” And English stylist Annabel Tollman conceded that while it wasn’t the most McQueen-ish creation in the world, nor could it be. “It’s McQueen doing royal wedding,” she said. “It’s not runway. But can you imagine if it had [been]? It would not have been a great start. The fashion industry would love it, but…this is not the Grand Palais. It’s Royalty. You don’t really want her turning up in look 12.”

Whether or not the dress screams Lee McQueen’s own name, all were glad with the bride’s choice. “I met Sarah Burton at a reception at 10 Downing Street, during the last fashion week,” Doonan remembered. “She told me all about the process of taking over, and how reticent she was, and how scary it was for her to step into Alexander’s shoes…it’s wonderful to see her put center stage like this. It’s like when Isabel Toledo did the inauguration outfit, seeing somebody really great who had a certain humility but was very creative put center stage.”

(Would McQueen himself have been pleased? “He’d find it kind of amusing that he’s been accepted by the establishment,” Roberts thought. “This plus the Met—I think that he’s kind of laughing at them down there, or wherever he is.”)

Much has been made of Middleton as a fashion icon in the making. Does the princess’ canny choice signal another step in that direction? Maybe—and then again, maybe not. Roberts was skeptical. “I think she can be made into a fashion icon by being talked up as such by the press, but if you are in London at all and have any idea what London girls look like, she pretty much conforms to a whole chunk of Sloane-y girls who look almost identical to her,” he said. Doonan, for his part, noted one area where Middleton might be influential. “Her natural bosom looks so fabulous in that dress, I think she’s going to become such an instant style icon,” he said. “I’m wondering if she’s going to depopularize the trend for fake boobs, because her natural bosom looks so perfect in this dress. I think maybe a lot of girls might reconsider that boob job.”

Tollman picked a less likely candidate for her style icon: her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. “I love the Queen,” she said. “Head-to-toe one color, basically been wearing the same thing for the past 70 years. That’s her. Who else can pull off head-to-toe single shade?”

Photo: Dan Kitwood /Getty Images

It’s A Stylist-Eat-Stylist World

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The world of fashion styling is plenty competitive, but thanks to Theory, that competition is now pretty literal: The label pitted three top stylists (Annabel Tollman and Nylon‘s J Errico and Dani Stahl) against one another in a to-the-finish style-off. Each styled three looks (a shorts look, a jersey look, and a men’s look) using Theory items, all of which are now on view at Theory’s Facebook page; vote for your favorite from now until July 9, and the one with the most votes will get a donation made in his or her name to the charity of his choice. (Tollman is playing for Oxfam America, Errico for the Hetrick-Martin Institute, and Stahl for the Animal Rescue Fund of the Hamptons.) As an added incentive, cast your vote and you’ll be eligible to win one of three $750 gift cards. Go forth and vote, and may the best stylist win.
Above: Shorts looks (left to right) styled by J Errico, Annabel Tollman, and Dani Stahl.

Photos: Courtesy of Theory

Buy It Now: Vintage Lingerie Tap Shorts

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To celebrate the launch of eBay’s new clotheshorse channel, fashion.ebay.com, stylist and brand ambassador Annabel Tollman (pictured at the Fall 2010 Calvin Klein Collection show) hosted a cozy dinner last night at the Crosby Street Hotel. Tollman, a professed vintage addict who likes to play up client Scarlett Johansson’s curves, worked a smoky eye and her own impressive décolletage in a fitted lace sheath from the McQueen archives. “I feel a bit like Courtney Love,” she said, remembering that back in her Interview days a blind item reported seeing then editor in chief Ingrid Sischy out and about with Ms. Love. “That was me,” Tollman said sheepishly. “Still not sure if I should be offended by that one.”

In addition to tips from professional shoppers like Tollman (fellow stylists Kate Young and Britt Bardo round out the list), eBay’s new fashion channel will be rolling out suitably geeky features like new image-similarity technology and a mannequin app that lets you size and style objects in your virtual closet on a picture of you (sorry ‘Berry users, that’s iPhone only). So, what items are eBay obsessives going to be watching? “Vintage lingerie tap shorts,” Tollman said. “I want to see if I can get away with wearing them as real shorts, but suddenly everyone else is snapping them up.” Ladies, start your bidding.

Photo: Billy Farrell/PatrickMcMullan.com