21 posts tagged "Anndra Neen"
Chinese designer Huishan Zhang, who landed on our radar this past summer, is the latest recipient of the Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize, which, includes a £25,000 award and mentorship. The 30-year-old Central Saint Martins alum was among four other finalists—Emilia Wickstead, Barbara Casasola, and Fyodor Golan—who presented their Spring 2014 collections to a panel of judges at the Dorchester Hotel on Tuesday night. “I was enjoying my night already, no matter what,” Zhang told WWD. “I thought I’d have another glass of Champagne then go home but now we might have to open a bottle!” Previous winners include Thomas Tait, Anndra Neen, and Augustin Teboul.
Mexico City is rapidly emerging as a—if not the—hotbed for emerging art, fashion, and design. It boasts one of the globe’s highest concentrations of museums, features cutting-edge architecture (check out Museo Soumaya, a hull-like structure plated in honeycomb blocks designed by the firm FR-EE), and just yesterday, received attention in a front-page New York Times article about its increasing attractiveness for expatriate artists and entrepreneurs. It seems the metropolis has appealed to designers, too, as traces of Mexico City popped up on a host of Spring ’14 runways.
While such labels as Rodebjer and Rebecca Minkoff pulled inspiration from Mexico, the biggest splash belonged to Prada (as big splashes often do). Signora Miuccia commissioned a panel of muralists to paint her set with giant faces, which were replicated on dresses, skirts, and coats. Prada reported that political art out of Mexico—particularly the work of Diego Rivera—served as a strong source of inspiration, and the collection’s first look featured a print by Mexican street artist Stinkfish.
At House of Holland, Henry Holland paid homage to Baz Luhrmann’s 1996 hit Romeo + Juliet, much of which was filmed in Mexico City. Splendid hues and religious motifs weren’t compromised, thanks to prints—which nodded to Mexico’s deep Catholic roots—by L.A.-based tattoo artist Alex Garcia.
Considering that Annette and Phoebe Stephens—the duo behind New York-based jewelry line Anndra Neen—were raised in Mexico City, it is perhaps not surprising that notes from their childhood emerged in their latest offering. Spring ’14′s sculptural shields, triangular necklaces, and woven metal wares were reportedly inspired by Ron Fricke’s 1992 globe-trotting documentary Baraka. The designers, who produce the line in Mexico City’s Zona Rosa neighborhood, embraced not just Mexican artisanship but Namibian and MENA crafts as well. To top it off, the Stephens sisters showed their new range alongside their personal collection of Rivera works—the exact artist that led Ms. Prada, thousands of miles away in Milan, to her own effort.
Anndra Neen, by Annette and Phoebe Stephens
Need to Know:
For Spring ’14, the New York-based siblings looked to Ron Fricke’s early-nineties documentary Baraka for inspiration. The film—which charts human activity across the world in twenty-four countries without narration—is a sweeping, nonverbal tour de force. It’s a fitting point of reference for two designers who first decided to go into business while on vacation together in Japan in 2009—and who have looked to locales as far-flung in time and space as medieval France (they were into early modern armor, to be exact), ancient Egypt, and their own hometown of Mexico City for inspiration in past collections. The pieces this season pull from a cornucopia of cross-cultural textiles, jewels, and designs: There are nickel-silver tube chokers evocative of traditional African necklaces, easy to layer or bold on their own; chain-link bracelets inspired by the patterns of Mexican rugs; and thin, armorlike breastplates that are light on the body but look ready for the battlefield. The label’s signature cage clutches make an appearance, this time made in two parts for a deconstructed finish. A minimalist, clean look (and the use of solely brass, copper, and silver) ties the handcrafted wares together. That they were presented in the Stephen sisters’ charming Gramercy brownstone-cum-atelier, alongside their collection of Diego Rivera works (he was a friend of the family’s, along with Anaïs Nin, José Clemente Orozco, and Frida Kahlo) and family photographs, brings it back home.
“In the film, you have these beautiful, strong images of a whole community praying,” reflected Phoebe. “Or you have…airplanes,” added Annette. “So it’s sort of the polar opposites. We’re inspired by all the different motifs.”
Where to Find It:
Fivestory, Opening Ceremony, Colette, Browns, Net-a-Porter, Moda Operandi, and more.
The royal baby isn’t the only big news out of London this week. This morning, in the Big Smoke, the Dorchester Collection announced the nominees for its 2013 Fashion Prize, all of whom happen to be London-based. Fyodor Golan, Barbara Casasola, Emilia Wickstead (left), and Huishan Zhang will now compete for the grand prize: a 25,000 pound bursary and mentorship, plus a two-night stay at one of the Collection’s über-luxe hotels. The big winner will be revealed on October 29, pending the results of a private catwalk presentation before a panel of judges, including stylist Caroline Issa and designer Daniella Helayel. The prestigious accolade was conceived to help designers in their professional infancy. To be eligible, brands must be between two and five years old. Previous recipients of the award include Thomas Tait and Anndra Neen.