18 posts tagged "Antonio Berardi"
Oversize, architectural shapes have earned quite a bit of attention in recent seasons, but at times it can seem as though designers are trying to mask or resist the female figure rather than embrace it. And so, it was refreshing to witness a return to sensuality on the Fall runways in the form of curve-enhancing, corset-inspired details. Raf Simons led the charge at Dior, sending out tailored sheaths featuring decorative lacing—apparently a nod to the laces of trainers—that traced along the torso and hips. Tough grommets whipstitched in leather turned up on the Balenciaga, Emilio Pucci, and Hood by Air runways, while Dolce & Gabbana took the trend in a more overtly sexy direction with fluttery chiffon dresses boasting built-in bustiers. Its tightly cinched numbers might require a fainting couch. Similarly, there was a slight fetishistic undercurrent about the tall lace-up boots that accessorized key looks at Antonio Berardi and Versace.
Judging by the wares spotted on recent red carpets, like the sheer-paneled Antonio Berardi gown Gwyneth Paltrow donned to the Iron Man 3 premiere and the posterior-flashing Givenchy frock Ke$ha sported at last night’s Billboard awards, it would seem there’s a risqué trend afoot. And it’s spilling over onto the Resort ’14 runways, but with a ladylike twist. Chanel, J.W. Anderson’s Versus Versace, and Christian Dior each offered examples of flowery, diaphanous lace. Karl Lagerfeld opted for subtle applications, namely with a bra-revealing blouse shown under a matching blazer, while Raf Simons went full monty-ette, splitting one dress with a mint-colored, neck-to-knee filigree. Anderson offset the neon pink of a slash-away skirt with a hip-high black-lace inset. Needless to say, it left little to the imagination—save what one would possibly wear underneath.
“Five judges, five different backgrounds, and we were all unanimous,” designer Antonio Berardi (pictured, right) told Style.com after crowning the first winner of the MADE for Peroni Young Designer Award this week. The clear-cut winner out of the ten Parsons fashion alumni competing, according to the five fashion insider judges (a team that included Berardi, Jenne Lombardo, Simon Collins, Roopal Patel, and Francesco Carrozzini), was up-and-coming Parsons BFA graduate Nolan Bellavance (pictured, left). “His work is incredibly modern, super-chic, and feels new. I think he could be a very big star,” says Berardi, dubbing him the next “Peter Pilotto or Proenza Schouler.” “His prints are unlike anything anyone else is doing,” he added, highlighting a print dress from Bellavance’s offerings as a favorite.
Those are certainly big shoes to fill, but to help get him going, Berardi will serve as Bellavance’s mentor (and the young star has received $25,000 to finance his debut collection and $20,000 from Peroni to produce the showcase of his first full-fledged collection at MADE fashion week). Until then, Berardi’s advice to the designer: “This is the beginning, so it’s time for him to explore who he is. With every new young designer, they have to get some things out of their system. Gradually you fall into your shoes.” As for Berardi, he is off to Milan and straight into fittings. “I didn’t even know fashion week shows had officially started here in New York,” he admits. When his clothes hit the catwalk in London, expect to see him toying with the proportions of separates. Plus, there are embroideries “that look like they are on fire,” he hints.