4 posts tagged "Apiece Apart"
For their debut Resort collection at Apiece Apart, designers Laura Cramer and Starr Hout stuck to their earthy utilitarian core. “She may just be the woman who is in one place but looking to travel through the clothing,” Cramer said of the contemporary they envisioned sliding into their wide-legged cropped silk trousers; Peruvian-woven sleeved ponchos; and jacquard printed, midi-length column skirts and matching printed crop tops.
In other words, the Apiece Apart Resort woman isn’t so much a Capri-bound jet-setter as a very busy but imaginative careerist dreaming of a life that includes the solitude of Capri moments—and because she never quite leaves her commitment-filled existence in Brooklyn or Seattle or wherever she may be, there’s a practicality that underlines the base of her between-season attire. The (as usual) print-heavy collection was inspired by Cy Twombly’s studio in Rome in the 1960s. “I think it was something about the kind of archaic, beautiful classical columns meeting something really fresh and abstract [in Twombly's work],” explained Cramer. “So the new meets the old, and the decadent meets the really put-together. We had a lot of ideas of ‘who is this woman on the streets of Rome?’”
Circular, deep maroon and warm navy geometric prints were pulled from the tiles in Twombly’s studio and placed on column-shaped (direct references to the classical Roman architecture) dresses and midi skirts. Cotton and cotton blends dominated the range. (“Our woman likes to wash her pieces herself,” quipped Cramer). Denim was also a focus—a simple, collarless shirtdress with a clean, three-quarter-length sleeve is proving a big seller with buyers already. (“Just a more grown-up look for a shirtdress,” noted Cramer.) Cloudy sky blue denim separates—more column skirts and oversize, almost sculptural shirts in cuts appropriate for the office—were enviable for their wearability, as well. “We want to go very democratic. We do want to be for everyone, and we’ve always said intergenerational dressing is very important to us,” said Cramer. There’s nothing overtly conceptual here—just simple, creative professional prints and chambray basics—but that’s never the focus for Cramer and Hout.
The inspiration for Apiece Apart designers Laura Cramer and Starr Hout’s new Spring collection included all of the following: Josef Albers, color theory, Lawrence of Arabia, David Hockney’s painting, and early Joan Didion. But for the video they shot to accompany the collection, they threw yet another into the mix: Ingmar Bergman’s Persona. “It seemed like an interesting idea to play with, that blurring and exchanging of identities,” says Cramer.
Continue Reading “First Persona: Apiece Apart’s Spring Short” »
“Modular” was the name of the game when Laura Cramer and Starr Hout launched Apiece Apart last season. The debut collection worked as a wardrobe of interchangeable pieces—washed linen jackets, sandwashed silk shells, a full-length romper. Now that those clothes are arriving in stores, Hout and Cramer are upping the ante for Fall and taking their modular concept 3-D. “Stackability,” says Hout, throwing down the gauntlet. “We wanted to create a collection where not only do the pieces work in and out with each other, but they can layer, too.” That meant cutting a cropped jacket, for example, in such a way that its lapel poked out teasingly below the Fall iteration of their bedrock boxy blazer. “We didn’t want the pieces fighting with each other,” Hout notes. For Fall, look for a metallic wool in the fabric mix and dolman-sleeved collarless coats in waxed cotton. “We love Barbour and Filson, all those super-functional heritage brands,” says Cramer. After all, as Hout adds, “It rains in the city, too.”
Remember Units? Depending on where you were living in the late eighties, you may have encountered the Units concept via the brand names Multiples or Singles. Still not ringing a bell? Here’s Woody Hochswender, writing in The New York Times on October 18, 1988: “In times of escalating clothing costs and fashion ennui, ‘modular dressing’ is catching on across the nation.” Tubular, mix-and-match, one-size-fits-all knits: That was Units. And it was BIG. For Spring 2009, Starr McCaleb and Laura Cramer are reviving the concept, minus the tubular-ness and the mallrat knits. Their new line, Apiece Apart, features 15 sophisticated, mix-and-match styles—blouses, jackets, dresses, trousers, skirts, shorts, and even a jumpsuit—meant to be worn interchangeably. “We wanted to create a uniform for creative women,” explains McCaleb, who spent her first few years in New York working with Yvonne Force Villareal. “A few choice silhouettes, unfussy fabrics like sandwashed silk, colors that all work together. Apiece Apart is really meant as the antidote to those moments when you look at all the clothes hanging in your closet and sigh. We want to make life easy.” Easy does it when it comes to Apiece Apart’s debut presentation, as well: This afternoon’s tea party in Brooklyn has been planned as a respite event for harried editors. “No stress,” says McCaleb. “That’s our vibe.”