3 posts tagged "Arthur Arbesser"
“Milan needs fresh blood,” quipped Arthur Arbesser, the young Central Saint Martins graduate who spent seven years under the helm of Giorgio Armani before moving on to start his own label just a year ago.
Last month Arbesser presented his third collection at architect Luca Cipelletti’s 1920s apartment to the likes of Suzy Menkes, who stopped by to review and spread the word. Here was an androgynous, in his own words “no frills, no bows, not very girly,” Joy Division- and Ettore Sottsass-inspired assortment of cold-cut outerwear and oversize, sometimes sheer and striped separates from the Milan-based Austrian newcomer—fresh blood, indeed.
Today, Arbesser gives us the video for his Fall 2014 collection, premiering exclusively here. Filmed in black-and-white by his friend, the Brooklyn-based director and photographer Samantha Casolari, the video follows a starkly styled Tatiana Pajkovic as she dances and moves alone through Brooklyn Heights. Hair pulled back, she makes her way into an empty, aging cinema. “It was a little bit dreamy, but at the same time a little bit melancholic,” said Arbesser.
“The collection was inspired by the usual things I love—eighties furniture, the architecture of the twenties and thirties—[but] this time around, I wanted to bring back a bit of my London days, especially the music I loved, like Joy Division,” said Arbesser. “I figured that a young designer needs to be a tiny bit controversial, let’s say. He needs to be a little more quirky. I’ve been living in Milan for so many years. I decided I needed to bring back a little bit of London—when I was a little bit wilder.”
Framed by the storied houses of alta moda, Alta Roma, Rome’s couture week, is always a feast of exhibitions, old-world craft, and rising stars. The four-day Fall ’14 spectacle, which wrapped this evening, offered up a Hans Feurer retrospective at the Roman palace La Pinacoteca del Tesoriere; a visit to the city’s Sartoria Farani, which has made costumes for Fellini, Pasolini, and Peter Brook; a fashion performance by Ludovica Amati in the rarely seen ruins below Rome’s Piazza Navona; and Bulgari’s presentation of the greatest hits from Diane Pernet’s A Shaded View on Fashion Film Festival, which was staged in Rome’s nearly 2,000-year-old Tempio di Adriano. If all this sounds like a nostalgia-inducing, Fellini-esque fashion circus, it was. But that’s not to say Rome didn’t highlight the new—it just took the most scenic route.
In fact, Alta Roma serves as a springboard for young designers. For instance, the six new talents who competed for Italy’s Who Is On Next prize last season returned to Rome to present their Fall ’14 collections. The winner of that competition, Austrian-born, Milan-based designer Arthur Arbesser (above, left), unveiled a fresh Fall ’14 range of checkerboard knits, transparent shirts, simple jackets, sweatshirts, and shorts.
Alta Roma afforded Arbesser not only a platform to present his Fall vision (which was inspired by “Joy Division’s Ian Curtis, London’s street edginess, Memphis design, and the straight lines of Vatican tailoring”) but also an opportunity to meet his idol, 83-year-old couturier Roberto Capucci, who came backstage to congratulate him postshow. “I was a child when the Kunsthistorisches, Vienna’s art history museum, showed Capucci’s pieces with armor and gowns from the Hapsburg Imperial family,” said Arbesser. “Seeing that convinced me to study fashion.” Continue Reading “At Alta Roma, It’s in With the Old, and the New” »
Alta Roma, Italy’s answer to haute couture, is currently under way in Rome. And yesterday, the winners of this season’s Who Is On Next design competition were announced. It was judged by an esteemed panel that included Saks Fifth Avenue’s Terron Schaefer, Suzy Menkes, and Harrods’ Marigay McKee. The initiative supports independent designers who produce their labels in Italy. The top talents will receive an area to show their collections to buyers during next September’s Milan fashion week (courtesy of Vogue Italia), and they’ll also create an exclusive look, which will be stocked on Yoox.com.
This year, Arthur Arbesser, a Viennese designer who spent seven years working with Giorgio Armani before launching his own line last fall in Milan, co-won the grand prize. He shared the spotlight with Julia Voitenko and Daria Golveko, the Russian duo behind Esme Vie. Continue Reading “Guess Who’s Next? Alta Roma Honors Emerging Talent” »