4 posts tagged "Asger Juel Larsen"
Justin O’Shea, the buying director at online luxury store MyTheresa, recently told Reuters that Copenhagen was one of only a few cities that inspired him. “It’s exotic minimalism. Beautiful simplicity is in their DNA. It is not based around high heels and miniskirts,” he said in the article.
It’s that simple elegance that’s starting to turn the heads of fashion insiders, like O’Shea, and consumers alike. (Denmark’s fashion exports have reportedly grown by 16 percent since 2009.) One of the most promising talents of them all is Danish designer Asger Juel Larsen, who won the inaugural menswear award in the Woolmark Europe competition last month, beating out designers like Pavel Ivancic, Vladimir Karaleev, and Cedric Jacquemyn. His judges included Style.com’s Tim Blanks, Colette’s Sarah Andelman, and Hermès’ Véronique Nichanian. “It was a unanimous decision. We were all in agreement about the choice,” Nichanian told WWD of their menswear choice.
On the heels of Larsen’s Spring 2015 “Interrupt Me” runway show in Copenhagen (as part of Copenhagen fashion week, which has just wrapped up), we checked in with the London College of Fashion grad to talk about the changing fashion scene in the Danish capital right now, his decision to leave London for Copenhagen, and more.
On the Copenhagen fashion climate right now…“Copenhagen fashion week is one of the biggest in northern Europe—it’s the most interesting in Scandinavia. We have some really strong designers who have been showing for many years, and then some new ones coming from places like London and Amsterdam who are trying a new thing and alternative way of presenting. There’s a very fun energy here right now.”
London vs. Copenhagen aesthetics…“They are definitely the total opposite look. The whole London scene—I think that makes up the craziness of what I do. Obviously, tailoring is a huge part of what I like to do. But I also have my Danish heritage—I used to embroider things with my mom and grandma, and that makes up a big part of who I am as a designer.”
On growing his business…
“I showed at London fashion week when I graduated—I had sponsored shows—then I was either going to do shows for press or go back to Copenhagen and build a company. When I moved from London, I really didn’t want to leave, it’s such an epicenter of fashion. But we are doing it at our own pace, and I’m really glad I did it that way. Eventually, I would also like to have a base in NYC. We are sold at VFiles in New York, H. Lorenzo in L.A., Henrik Vibskov, and lots of places in Scandinavia (obviously). Our biggest business right now is coming from Japan and the U.S. Our diffusion line of basics, A.J.L. Madhouse, is way more affordable, and that’s doing quite well.”
The immediate effects of the Woolmark win…
“I think the show went really well. I think there were a lot more international magazines at the show because of my Woolmark win. Also, lots of buyers have been contacting me. All in all, the news has been everywhere and all the media outlets have covered it. My Google alerts are going mad right now. It looks like the future is going to be hectic.”
On the art of winning a fashion prize…
“I had a really good, but very short, dialogue with the judges. I think they thought the fabrics and the garments I did were unique. I wanted to make a human sheep with the merino wool—we all laughed about that. I didn’t have much schooling on doing a fashion competition, they just selected me and Anne Sofie Madsen to do it. It was just me and my team, trying to make something really pure. You know?”
His dream fashion prize to win…
“To me, Woolmark is everything. There is nothing bigger.”
The European winners have just been announced for this year’s International Woolmark Prize, which is arguably one of the most venerated awards in the fashion industry. Yesterday, at Paris’ Shangri-La Hotel, Germany’s Augustin Teboul (codesigned by Odély Teboul and Annelie Augustin) and Denmark’s Asger Juel Larsen were selected from ten nominees each in the women’s and men’s categories.
“It was a unanimous decision,” Véronique Nichanian, who designs the men’s collections for Hermès, told WWD. Larsen’s winning men’s look, a voluminous, supersoft cream ensemble, was intended to resemble a “human sheep.” Women’s designer Augustin Teboul, on the other hand, designs only in black. Augustin Teboul and Larsen were both awarded a prize of AU $50,000 (about $44,000 USD) to put toward production and developing their businesses.
The European regionals are one of five competitions hosted by Woolmark each year. The other geographical regions include the U.S., Asia, Australia, and the Middle East and India (where Emperor 1688 and Bird on a Wire were just announced as the men’s and women’s finalists). In each region, competitors submit one look each made entirely of merino wool, and a jury of industry leaders selects the winners. This year marks the first time Woolmark has awarded two individual men’s and women’s prizes.
After all finalists have been announced, the men’s designers will convene at London Collections: Men in January to compete for the international final. The women’s designers will meet in Beijing in March. The two overall winners will receive an additional AU $100,000 ($94,000 USD) and will also have the opportunity to sell their collection at international retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue and Harvey Nichols.
Given Copenhagen’s chilly climate, it’s no surprise that during the city’s biannual fashion week, which wrapped on Friday, Scandinavian designers turned out warm, functional garments. Gorgeous coats were staples, and some of the best came from Designers Remix’s uniform-inspired collection. Fur was also a fixture, and particularly stood out on rising star Freya Dalsjø’s runway (above, left). Her use of color-blocking brought new dimension to her mink coats and pumps.
After a few seasons of absence, Danish favorites Wackerhaus and Stine Goya (above, right) made strong returns to Copenhagen fashion week. The former presented layers of tailored, feminine garments, while the latter enlisted top Danish models Lykke May and Louise P to showcase her voluminous lavender, baby blue, and mint green wares. Those looking for decadence got their fill at By Malene Birger. The brand’s namesake founder departed the label last season, and the Fall ’14 collection was designed by Christina Exsteen. The lineup, with its seventies-inspired maxi-glam feel, was true to the brand and felt younger and more directional than previous By Malene Birger offerings.
Both Anne Sofie Madsen and Asger Juel Larsen (above, left) were inspired by Antarctica this season, but each of their collections showcased the respective designer’s signatures, and demonstrated why these two talents are gaining international recognition. Madsen’s white furs definitely caught editors’ eyes, as did her intricate, ice-crystal-like dresses. Meanwhile, Larsen’s techno-inspired, tribal-printed collection had a campy quality, and was one of the top outings of the season. Wali Mohammed Barrech’s black-and-red ninja looks also deserve a mention—he’s one of the city’s most interesting up-and-comers. We’ll be keeping our eye on him.
Copenhagen’s clique of clever urban brands, Wood Wood, Baum und Pferdgarten, and Henrik Vibskov (above, right), were at it again for Fall ’14. Vibskov’s spaghetti-inspired collection gave a lesson in colorful joy, while Wood Wood stuck to a more sporty aesthetic. And one of Fall ’14′s biggest trends in Copenhagen—check patterns—was done best by Baum und Pferdgarten. The clothes were an unlikely combination of grunge and prep.
Copenhagen fashion week wrapped this weekend, and the Scandinavian Spring ’14 runways saw designers embrace relaxed, sportswear-inspired looks in mesh, nylon, and neoprene. A fitting trend, perhaps, seeing as informality is a big part of Copenhagen’s culture.
Danish enfant terrible Asger Juel Larsen opened the festivities, and his hard-hitting political show set a high standard. Anne Sofie Madsen delivered a striking array of intricate leather dresses, bulky tops inspired by motocross, and broad pants paired with mesh tops. She completed her looks with jewelry by Trine Tuxen. And rising star Freya Dalsjø raised the bar still, bringing in Lindsey Wixson to open her three-model-only show (above, left). Her trio of catwalkers piled on layers and layers of color-blocked silk garments before wrapping up in boxy, swoon-worthy neoprene coats for their final lap.
Henrik Vibskov showed off his print chops with an Afrocentric collection—one of his best in recent years (above, right). Baum und Pferdgarten, too, delivered strong prints—from leopard spots to stripes—on its wearable, feminine garments, and Jean//Phillip returned to the menswear scene with a lineup that included red and green reptile motifs. Continue Reading “Danes Just Wanna Have Fun” »