5 posts tagged "Augustin Teboul"
Chinese designer Huishan Zhang, who landed on our radar this past summer, is the latest recipient of the Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize, which, includes a £25,000 award and mentorship. The 30-year-old Central Saint Martins alum was among four other finalists—Emilia Wickstead, Barbara Casasola, and Fyodor Golan—who presented their Spring 2014 collections to a panel of judges at the Dorchester Hotel on Tuesday night. “I was enjoying my night already, no matter what,” Zhang told WWD. “I thought I’d have another glass of Champagne then go home but now we might have to open a bottle!” Previous winners include Thomas Tait, Anndra Neen, and Augustin Teboul.
Berlin fashion week wrapped this weekend. The Spring ’14 schedule had a few noticeable holes, with German powerhouses Escada and Hugo Boss opting to present elsewhere. But their absence only made the spotlight shine brighter on local brands.
One of the best moments of the season (along with the parade of memorable street-style experiments) was Achtland’s collection (left), which offered expertly layered garments in silk and cotton. The following day, Augustin Teboul unveiled a theatrical, and equally impressive, all-black Spring ’14 range. Models took to the runway in beaded leather leggings, cropped jackets, wrapped cardigans, and elaborate jeweled headpieces. Cult favorite Vladimir Karaleev didn’t disappoint, either, presenting a conceptual compendium of geometrically patterned fabrics and asymmetrical cuts.
Returning to Berlin from Paris this season, Kaviar Gauche turned out a futuristic, off-white collection. At contemporary art space St. Agnes, the label debuted jackets with minimalistic wave finishes, see-through dresses with floral embroidery, and leather blouses and coats. Continue Reading “The Best of Berlin” »
Throughout Berlin fashion week, Alonso Dominguez will report back on the best and brightest shows. To view our complete coverage, click here.
The last day of Berlin fashion week kicked off with Issever Bahri (left)—a young label (founded in 2010) designed by German-Turkish duo Derya Issever and Cimen Bachri. For Fall ’13, the pair put forth a minimal, neutral collection of long silk shirts and oversize knits. These were worn with black leather trousers and short skirts in wool velvet. Demure dresses brought a youthful femininity to the collection.
Over at Vladimir Karaleev, deconstruction was the name of the game. The conceptual designer sent men and women in unfinished gabardine, wool, and rubber garments down his runway. Key looks included a cream woven sweater with a mesh detail that exposed the model’s torso and a cropped see-through-plastic electric blue jacket with faux-fur sleeves.
At Dawid Tomaszewski, one of the most anticipated shows of the week, there were smoky-eyed models wearing sculptural black and dark gray looks in leather and silk. Applications like rubber patches on tights and copper-colored metallic belts and cummerbunds gave the collection a futuristic feel, while baded embroidery and carefully tailored jackets and capes were evidence of the designer’s attention to detail.
Michael Michalsky’s show—the last of the evening—was held at an off-site location. For men, there were rolled-up trousers, dark blazers, and leather jackets. Illustrator Bendix Bauer designed Michalsky’s custom Fall print, which appeared on trousers, shirts, and a suit. For the ladies, the designer showed long silk and lace dresses and skirts paired with thick coats, dark blazers, or sequined jackets. Mini polka dots covered aqua blouses and long skirts, and the black chiffon finale gown—nipped at the waist with a bowed belt—closed the show (and for that matter, Berlin fashion week) with a flash of drama.
Following the likes of recent Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize winners like Thomas Tait and Anndra Neen‘s Phoebe and Annette Stephens, designers Annelie Augustin (pictured, left) and Odély Teboul (pictured, right) of Paris-based label Augustin Teboul have been announced as the prestigious award’s 2012 winners. The duo’s all-black collection won over the judging panel, made up of designers like Kenzo Takada, Bruno Frisoni (pictured, center), and Nathalie Rykiel, last night at Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris. The two beat out rising labels such as Calla, IRM Design, Les Garçons Paris, and Quentin Veron for the $39,000 prize. “We are very moved,” Teboul told WWD. “At the moment, Annelie and I do everything ourselves.” If Tait and the Anndra Neen girls are any example, then that won’t be the case for Augustin Teboul much longer thanks to their new funds to amp up their studio staff. Watch this space.
Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week began yesterday in the German capital. All week, reporter Hili Perlson will be sending back dispatches from the scene.
Berlin fashion week has a new home this season, a few kilometers away from its former address. That makes it not only the first time that the shows will take place in the former West, but also that it’s sharing real estate with the Siegsäule, the nineteenth-century Victory Column that was also ground zero for the legendary Love Parade. The electronica-and-more fest wasn’t known for its high fashion cred—it gave rise to more than a few bizarre looks—but it inspired some utterly creative getups in its heyday nevertheless.
Still, the shows at Berlin were more fashion than festival. Escada Sport opened the season with a breezy Spring 2013 collection of light knits and embroidered pieces that mixed a hot summer Cancun getaway with Berlin cool. At the end of the show, it was a lamb leather T-shirt worn with matching pants that had showgoers buzzing.
The contrast to Augustin Teboul’s presentation could hardly be starker. The visionary German-French duo showed an all-black collection of sheer fabrics and leather, inspired by Baudelaire’s Les fleurs du mal, offsite in a grand West Berlin apartment, where the models were set within cavernous flower arrangements.
Dawid Tomaszewski took things in a more avant-garde direction, sending alienlike models down the runway wearing futuristic jackets and laser-cut dresses made of high-tech materials, styled with feathers held in place by a mouthpiece (pictured, right). The collection of gravity-defying tops and rubber leggings was aptly entitled Metamorphosis and was inspired by the landscape of Portugal, though save for the Fado soundtrack, the collection evoked Asia Minor more than Iberian Peninsula.
Kaviar Gauche, one of the city’s strongest brands, closed out the first day, showing its signature ultra-feminine and always wearable looks, this time in shades of yellow, mustard, ocher, and black (pictured, left).