August 23 2014

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4 posts tagged "Back"

Fashion Week Heats Up Stockholm


Stockholm fashion week

At this time of year, Stockholm is not a fashion-friendly place. The winds are frigid, the temperatures are freezing, and a thin layer of snow and ice makes it treacherous for heels. Not to mention, achieving just the right balance between cozily layered and overbundled is mighty tricky. While the locals were more or less prepared for the unfortunate conditions, the international press and buyers who descended upon the seventeenth Mercedes-Benz Stockholm Fashion Week struggled to dress the part. However, local designers offered a host of fashionable-yet-practical solutions for Stockholm’s chilly weather in their Fall ’14 collections.

J.Lindeberg, designed by Jessy Heuvelink, presented a high-octane lineup inspired by the medusa, a large jellyfish that swims in cold, dark waters. Cleverly layering blue furs, black leather, and burgundy wool in his outerwear-focused offering, the designer presented a sexy, not-too-serious take on winter dressing.

Celebrating the brand’s fifteenth anniversary, Whyred womenswear designer Roland Hjort expertly layered trousers, dresses, and coats, which he presented in a palette of grays. The outing was topped off by fur jackets and silver Dr. Martens boots. The looks were elegant but stable.

AltewaiSaome, designed by Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome, is fast becoming the most anticipated show of the week. Collaborating with Swedish design firm Bolon, they turned out straight silhouettes that emphasized the waist. Slit knee-length skirts and split half-shoulder jackets were paired with boxy, silver appliquéd tops, and belts and clutch bags in bright reds, yellows, and lime greens provided a finishing kick.

Putting on the shows of the week was Ann-Sofie Back, both for her own label, BACK, and Cheap Monday, where she is the creative director. For BACK, she chose a circular church and had her models twirl down the runway wearing pink face paint and a deconstructed hairstyle she dubbed “BACK With a Bang!” Naturally, it was a reference to the mania of fashion week. The clothes were draped, tied, and knotted in velvet, fleece, and chestnut lambswool knit. Cheap Monday, meanwhile, began with dancing couples encompassed by circles of light. The inspiration, we later learned, was young couples who are hopeful in the face of doom. Heavy, inverted denim; crinkled jersey; and leatherette with pleated chiffon sequins made up the soft rounded shapes and funnel necks. The last show of the week, Tiger of Sweden, dressed a timeless heroine, maybe a Hitchcock blond, in shades of gray, emerald green, dusty pink, and dark royal blue. Thigh-high boots, oversize scarves draped over the shoulders, and an intriguing black velvet turtleneck dress were just some of the collection’s standouts.

Photos: Mathias Nordgren

Stockholm Steps It Up


J. Lindeberg and Filippa K

Stockholm fashion week came to a close yesterday, and it was fitting that the Swedish Minister of Culture chose this season as the first to award a representative of the fashion industry with the government’s oldest medal—the Illis Quorum. It was given to Margareta van den Bosch, H&M’s head of design for more than twenty years, for her contribution toward raising Swedish fashion to international success and stimulating the growth of Swedish designers. And her efforts, it would seem, have paid off. During the Spring ’14 shows, there was a noticeably stronger international presence from buyers, members of the press, and even street-style scenesters—some of whom experienced a touch of wardrobe confusion thanks to the sunny and unusually hot weather.

Suitable for an outdoorsy nation of egalitarian renown, quite a few of the shows featured both menswear and womenswear, and there was an emphasis on practicality, nature, and the modern luxury of affordable garments. Impossibly high heels and astronomically expensive handbags were nowhere to be found—rather, designers expressed a fascination with functionality. J.Lindeberg articulated this via puffer jackets and boots punctuated by insect prints (above, left). In her BACK presentation, Ann-Sofie Back offered workwear that was mirrored in her collection for Cheap Monday, and monochromatic and nude color schemes dominated at Whyred and Carin Wester. Tiger of Sweden provided a refreshing closing show that mixed punky details with micro-patterns and sharp tailoring.

Bea Szenfeld and AltewaiSaome

There were a few stand-out moments—Filippa K’s sand-colored menswear suit with a black leather shirt and black suede shoes (top, right), The Local Firm’s designer Richard Hutchinson opening his show playing the flute, and Bea Szenfeld’s haute papier collection of giant animals made out of paper (above, left), among them. AltewaiSaome—designed by Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome—deserves a mention, too. Inspired by a gentleman’s wardrobe, with garters and oversized un-tied bowties, the innovative collection (above, right) was impressive for a duo only in their fifth season showing. Overall, Stockholm felt more confident in its identity as an emerging fashion capital, understanding its strengths and building for the future.

Photos: Mathias Nordgren; Kristian Löveborg (AltewaiSaome)

Stockholm Fashion Week Comes To A Close


Throughout Stockholm fashion week, blogger Columbine Smille will report back on the best and brightest shows. To view our complete coverage click here.

Day 3:
The final day of Stockholm fashion week began with AltewaiSaome, a young label designed by Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome. For Fall, the pair was inspired by a trip to New York and showed a luxe take on streetwear. Featuring embellished dresses, emerald-green hooded silk jackets, and relaxed silhouettes, their wearable urban collection had an easy, sporty tone.

J.Lindeberg’s Fall ’13 (above) was all about traditional tailoring with a modern twist. Inspired by the Stockholm City Library, the men’s collection was filled with well-cut suits and coats, as well as a few splashes of color and playful prints. For women, the brand (which is sold in more than thirty-five countries worldwide) offered sophisticated separates in black, navy, and olive.

Over at Diana Orving, there were earth tones, metallics and flowerlike sheer organza appliqués. A few dresses were shown in a script print, which the designer wrote in her own hand, but the long lace dress paired with a transparent off-the-shoulder cardigan was the highlight of the show.

Tiger of Sweden—which some have come to call the Burberry Prorsum of Stockholm—closed fashion week with a standout show (a show that, it should be noted, included model Kirstin Liljegren, pictured above). Tweed coats and caps were mixed with color-blocked silky looks in black, deep purple, and neon. The outerwear, however, was the crowd favorite—a big fuzzy fur coat made front-rowers look twice.

Stockholm fashion week may be finished, but the Swedes still have two more local brands to look forward to: Acne Studios will be showing in Paris this season (they formerly showed in London), and Rodebjer has recently started presenting their collection in New York. Indeed, we’re excited to see what they’ll bring to the international fashion stage.

Continue Reading “Stockholm Fashion Week Comes To A Close” »

Just Another Manic Monday


Ann-Sofie Back was and wasn’t completely herself these past few days, showing two very different collections during Stockholm fashion week. On Monday, she presented her diffusion line, Back, in a shop basement: easygoing looks that included windbreaker-fabric pants and a beautiful lipstick-smudge floral print. (For a look at Back Spring 11, click below.) Much more hyped, though, was the first full collection she’s done for Cheap Monday (above) since being named creative director last summer, which showed on a rainy Tuesday evening under a tent on the Stockholm waterfront.

Back tapped into her flashier side for that one, citing (along with collaborator Örjan Andersson) Latin denim and L.A. celebrity trends as strong influences. “With Cheap Monday, I can actually somehow be freer, because it’s not me,” she explained backstage. The brand’s bigger client base means working with more restrictions. “It can’t be too clean; it has to be playful and a bit rough. There are certain things that have to be included in the collection, and that’s actually quite relaxing,” Back said. “With my own line, I get a bit more precious, and not always in a good way.”

There’s nothing that self-deprecating in Back’s extroverted, slightly exaggerated Cheap Monday looks. There are some overlaps, though: sheer tops, drawstrings, and glitter. As for her main line, Ann-Sofie Back, she’ll show it in London on September 20. After a contemplative pause, she said, “I’m pretty sure there’s no glitter in it.” Continue Reading “Just Another Manic Monday” »