135 posts tagged "Balenciaga"
If you’ve ever fallen hard for a piece of high-fashion costume jewelry, chances are good that it has passed through Edgard Hamon. Founded in 1919, the atelier was the first to create belts for Chanel, and decades later, it was the first to thread strips of leather through metal chains.
Today, the Edgard Hamon archives scan like a who’s who of couture’s glory days: Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Nina Ricci, Chanel, Givenchy, Thierry Mugler, Balenciaga, and Christian Lacroix have all called on Edgard Hamon at some point.
Which is why Lacroix, along with Elie Top, Paris Vogue jewelry editor Franceline Prat, and various other experts all gathered today at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Their mission was to elect the winners of the two first-ever Edgard Hamon awards: the Edgard Hamon Prize for Costume Jewellery, which goes to a designer under 30 years old who has worked in fashion jewelry in France, and the 3,000-euro Edgard Hamon Future Hope Prize for Costume Jewellery, which goes to a student in his or her last year at a European school of fashion.
The contestants were challenged to design pieces based on the work of a chosen architect, and tonight, Style.com can exclusively reveal the winners. Century Xie took the 15,000-euro Edgard Hamon Prize for Costume Jewellery, and Yao Yu won the Edgard Hamon Future Hope Prize for Costume Jewellery.
“We had a great time, they were incredibly creative,” said Lacroix of the selection process. “It was really beautiful. Many of them referenced Gaudí or Prouvé, for example. And many of them were influenced by Elie [Top].”
Top, the self-taught talent behind Lanvin’s fabulous baubles, replied that he was flattered to hear it. “Everyone’s always talking about bags and shoes, but costume jewelry really deserves attention. It’s so closely linked with fashion’s silhouettes, color, and what you want now—that’s the magic of it. There’s so much more to it than silver and gold.”
Xie’s line will be produced and displayed at Le Bon Marché; Edgard Hamon will produce three of Yu’s prototypes and she will receive an internship. The winners’ collections will be presented at an official ceremony at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs on July 4.
The foursome behind the new label Vetements, which means “clothes” in French, first met at Maison Martin Margiela. After a time, they all dispersed, but the backstory goes a long way toward explaining why, now that they’ve formed a collective, not one wishes to be identified by name. What we can say, however, is that it’s an international crowd with cred—they’re Austrian, Belgian, Ex-Soviet Union, and French, and they’ve done time at Balenciaga and Céline.
Regrouping has been “kind of like a high school reunion,” one of the designers said the other day. “But what we really want to do is just make clothes that are timeless, personal, and nice to have. It’s more a collection of ideas.”
The kind of woman Vetements is talking to is urban, but she’s into pushing it with not-too-basic wares such as vintage 501s reworked as a skirt with uneven, raw hems; boxy jackets in heavy biker leather; and conceptual pieces like garment bag shearling coats and sleeveless vests (these come with a separate set of sleeves). “Brutalist” basics cover a lot of ground, from T-shirts and sweaters to trenchcoats. These are offered in seasonal colors of charcoal, navy, taupe, bordeaux, and black, and the range is brightened by the occasional flash of aluminum nylon. Judging by the retailer response (and the clothes, of course), this wearable compilation of ideas is full of good ones—Opening Ceremony, Joyce Hong Kong, and Maxfield in L.A. have already picked up the brand’s debut collection.
“It’s not topical, we’re not talking themes,” the designer noted. “We’re talking pieces that work on their own and play off each other.” We’ll be keeping an eye out for what this mysterious quartet does next.
Few designers make you want to completely rethink your wardrobe; Alexander Wang is one of them. His much-buzzed about Spring ’14 collection, which, FYI, is hitting stores now, got us thinking about adding a few men’s shirts to our repertoire. Classic shirting happens to be a big trend this season; it also turned up at Altuzarra, Dior, and Thakoon. Wear yours a little bit oversized and half-buttoned for a look that reads sultry, not secretary. Paired with slim trousers, a chunky watch, and loafers, it’s a sophisticated look with a saucy edge. Shop our favorite menswear-inspired pieces by Gucci, Michael Kors, Balenciaga, and more, below.
1. Alexander Wang cotton-piqué playsuit, $965, available at net-a-porter.com
2. Michael Kors Channing lapis dial bracelet watch, $250, available at nordstrom.com
3. Balenciaga Le Dix cartable leather tote, $1,945, available at mytheresa.com
4. Gucci horsebit-detail patent leather loafers, $575, available at net-a-porter.com
5. J Brand Piper cotton-blend twill skinny pants, $230, available at net-a-porter.com
We can always count on Paris for high-wattage casts, but we never expected to see so many supermodels this early in the week. None other than Gisele Bündchen kicked things off today by closing Balenciaga (the last time she set foot on a runway was Alexander Wang’s Fall ’12 show two years ago), where she was notably joined by familiar faces Mariacarla Boscono and Natasha Poly. Several hours later, Balmain continued to raise the bar with a lineup full of A-listers, including Angela Lindvall, Anja Rubik, Emily DiDonato, Izabel Goulart, and closer Rosie Huntington-Whiteley (who also walked in the label’s Spring show). Compared to those all-stars, the other major girls in the mix—Karlie Kloss, Joan Smalls, Jourdan Dunn, and Edie Campbell—all but faded into the background. And then leave it to Rick Owens to throw a wrench into the works. Following his step dancers last season, the designer turned heads again by interspersing old-school veterans such as Kirsten Owen and Diana Dondoe with real, mature women (many of whom, we’re happy to say, were not sample size). But this was no street-casting job. Rather, Owens’s casting directors, Angus Munro and Noah Shelley, told Style.com that “most of the ‘women’ were part of the Owens organization.” Owens kept it fresh by keeping it in the family. Speaking of keeping it in the family, we were pleasantly surprised to see Harry Brant follow supermodel mom Stephanie Seymour when he made his runway debut at IRFE. Sadly, his older brother, Peter Brant Jr., didn’t make the cut. There’s always next season, Peter.