136 posts tagged "Balenciaga"
Alessandro Dell’Acqua isn’t one to wax nostalgic. “For me, designing is all about a new story and a modern attitude,” the designer said before a cocktail party in honor of his ready-to-wear label, No. 21, at the New York residence of Valentina Castellani on Friday night. The soiree celebrated a new push for the brand, which, founded in 2010, gained financial backing from Gilmar in 2012. And the evolution of his label is evidence that Dell’Acqua’s forward-looking philosophy applies not only to his clothes, but to his life, too. Fall ’14 will bring plenty of new adventures for Dell’Acqua, now 50. He’s launching menswear under the No.21 moniker, as well as presenting his first collection for heritage French house Rochas, where he was appointed creative director in October after Marco Zanini announced that he was leaving to head up Schiaparelli. “I’m not a young designer, so when they called, I said, Are you sure?” Dell’Acqua laughed, noting that other storied houses (like Balenciaga and Loewe) have opted for younger creative directors (like Alexander Wang and Jonathan Anderson, respectively). Sometimes, however, it helps to have a talent who knows the ropes.
Indeed, Dell’Acqua is no up-and-comer. In 1996, before stints at Malo and Les Copains, the designer launched his successful, hyper-feminine namesake line, known for its whimsical yet seductive allure and lingerie accents. Two years later, he started an eponymous menswear range. But his story is all too familiar—Dell’Acqua lost the rights to his name after a dispute with his parent company, Cherry Grove (who also owned Malo), in 2009. He made a comeback a year later with No. 21—a ready-to-wear label named for his birthday (December 21) and his lucky number. “It’s about real women,” he told Style.com during that first show in 2010. Now, three years later, the brand, which is carried in stores like Selfridges and Matches, independent boutiques, and at such e-tailers as Net-a-Porter and Moda Operandi, delivers just that—smart staples (think: embellished separates, slick blazers, and crisp overcoats) that cater to real-world women with a penchant for luxury. “No. 21 was born out of a horrible moment for me,” recalled Dell’Acqua. “I wanted to do a little line that was completely different, but still had my DNA.”
Monumental. There’s really no better word for the new Balenciaga flagship at 148 Mercer Street, in Soho. With its triple-height ceiling, curving skylight (a clin d’oeil at Cristóbal’s sculptural volumes), and green Verde Ramegiatto marble walls (an echo of Alexander Wang’s debut collection for the label), the 4,120-square-foot, two-floor store resembles a museum or a cathedral nave. The objects of worship: Wang’s ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, jewelry, and eyewear, each of which will be housed within its own distinct space. But if it’s grand, it’s intimate as well, with the ready-to-wear tucked away in the far reaches of the basement level. A low-slung couch and chairs upholstered in caviar embroidery, another nod to Wang’s first show for the house, lend the room the look and feel of a VIP salon. Wang worked with his friend of ten years, interior designer Ryan Korban, on the project, as well as its brother store across the street, which will sell the brand’s menswear. (Korban also designed the Alexander Wang boutique a few blocks south, on Grand Street.) “It’s thrilling to have created a new home in Soho, a neighborhood everyone in the world crosses,” Wang said from Paris last week. “From here, we’ll focus on a new statement in Tokyo next year; this is just the beginning, and I’m looking forward.” Above, an exclusive image of the new flagship. Wang will christen the store tomorrow night with a cocktail party. Both shops open to the public on Friday, November 22.
Easy there, rumor mill. After a series of reports—all seeming to stem from an Asian site called Luxury Society, but picked up by outlets ranging from The Cut to StyleCaster that Nicolas Ghesquière had been confirmed as Marc Jacobs’ successor at Louis Vuitton, a source at the French house told Style.com that it’s not so. The representative stated that Vuitton has no comment as to whether it’s considering Ghesquière for the creative director gig, and could not confirm when the identity of the new designer will be released. That being said, whispers about talks between Ghesquière and LVMH have been circulating for some time…and look at how last year’s rumor that Alexander Wang might get appointed to Balenciaga turned out. All we can say for now is: Stay tuned.
It was a whirlwind month for this season’s freshman class of models, who ended things on a high note in Paris by making their final first impressions at the shows that really count. We were ecstatic to see many of the fresh faces we’ve had our eye on since early September go on to solidify their spots on our top newcomer list. After making the grade in New York, London, and Milan, Malaika Firth demonstrated the poise of a veteran in the City of Light, where she bookended Valentino and walked sixteen other runways including Anthony Vaccarello, Céline, Giambattista Valli, Miu Miu, and Stella McCartney. Altogether, Firth totaled an impressive fifty-five shows for Spring ’14, and we can’t wait to see her in upcoming ad campaigns and editorial spreads. Several of the other front-runners who’ve been in the spotlight from the start picked up the pace for the final segment. Alexander Wang opener Anna Ewers finished with thirty-seven catwalk appearances and did turns at Balenciaga, Céline, Chanel, and Isabel Marant in Paris, among others. Our personal favorite, Binx Walton (bottom right), took the city by storm—Acne Studios, Alexander McQueen, Céline, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Saint Laurent were just a few of her credits.
Moving along, we simply cannot get enough of Kate Goodling (top left). She’s the total package, with a combination of all-American good looks, editorial appeal, and a killer runway body. Well managed by Ford NY across the Atlantic, Goodling also racked up thirty-seven shows, hitting top-tier catwalks in Paris like Balenciaga, Chanel, Chloé, Dior, Givenchy, Lanvin, and Nina Ricci. We were also dazzled by Lexi Boling, another Ford NY girl, who turned up at Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Céline, and Chloé. French belle Elodia Prieto (top right), who opened and closed Calvin Klein in New York, took advantage of her hometown advantage and finished up at Alexander McQueen, Balmain, Céline, Dior, Givenchy, Haider Ackermann, and Nina Ricci. Finally, check out Svetlana Zakharova’s (bottom left) mesmerizing gaze and bone structure. She was an Alexander Wang exclusive in New York, and blew us away in Paris at Chlo#233;, Balmain, Giambattista Valli, and Isabel Marant. We could go on and on raving about this season’s successful rookies—and there were plenty other notables, including Irina Liss, Ine Neefs, Ophelie Guillermand, Devon Windsor, and Sabrina Loffreda, who made the Spring ’14 runways all the more vibrant.