8 posts tagged "Bally"
The opening day of London’s menswear shows began by looking into the past. Things kicked off with a celebration of Belstaff’s new collaboration with Goodwood Racing (left). The lower-priced moto-inspired collection will launch with fanfare at Harrods next month. “In the history of British motor sports, Goodwood and Belstaff are almost inseparable,” said creative director Martin Cooper, who was looking forward to spending a day or two at the estate of his cohost, the Earl of March, racing’s unofficial peer. Featuring Lord March’s family tartan on waxed jackets and hidden inside linings, the new collection was worn by models perched on vintage bikes outside the members club where the presentation was held. The bikes belonged to Sammy Miller, Britain’s former number-one trials rider (now an avid collector). Not far away, Bally was celebrating history, too: its place as the boot supplier to Tenzing Norgay’s 1953 Everest expedition. A replica pair of the boots Norgay wore was displayed, but the new Everest collection was lighter and more city-friendly (case in point: the seamless, waterproof “double” hiking boot co-designer Graeme Fidler was enthusing over). Bally showed deerskin bags, too. They came in the form of expeditioner backpacks, but also, for the nonclimbers, as a weekender.
But it was the future that was on view at Fashion East, the clutch of up-and-comers installed at Carlton Gardens, Meadham Kirchhoff among them. Bobby Abley had rigged up a UFO craft with a spaceman model inside. More of this earth was Kit Neale’s greasy-spoon setup, with models lingering over plates of chips (left). Neale is a print-meister, preferring psychedelic patterns in brash colors, but this season he moved away from the digital prints he’s favored in the past and back toward more traditional screen-printing. Those played nicely off the hand-done Dalmatian dots of Joseph Turvey’s collection (shown alongside mewling pups), which had a graphic punchiness in black and white. Maarten van der Horst and Nasir Mazhar rounded out the lot.
If London needed a representative for the present between past and future, you could say Hunter Gather (left) took that spot. The brainchild of famed stylist and brand consultant David Bradshaw (his handiwork has shaped Versace, Jil Sander, and more), the new contemporary label and shop on Wigmore Street celebrated its official debut. There were great colorful knits (in raspberry and mustard), tailoring, and even shearling jackets. The easy-to-swallow pricing felt right for the here and now, as did the emphasis on sourcing insight from the crowd—from collaborators to the design team to friends Bradshaw’s made over the course of his career. “I’m the creative director,” Bradshaw said with a hint of modesty. “The ideas come from the collective.” And, he added in a bit of 2013 wisdom, the store is great, but “it’s all about the Web site.”
“It’s rare that students get to present their designs in a venue like this, never mind getting to travel to Italy and work with creative directors of a large fashion company right on their turf,” Central Saint Martins professor Louise Wilson OBE said at the Bally and Central Saint Martins presentation at London’s Savoy Hotel earlier today. “I certainly never had that chance like that when I was a student.”
Props, then, to Bally, which is now in its third year of collaborating with Wilson’s CSM M.A. class. For the project, the brand selects two students to create a womenswear and menswear look, with a simple and admirable objective in mind—to nurture talent and to allow students the rare insight of what work life could be after graduation. Needless to say, this year’s students, Alice Bastin and Mei Lim Cooper (pictured), were chuffed to be there. “It was life-altering getting to work with the Bally creative directors (Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz)—seeing how a design is completed from A to Z,” Cooper told Style.com. And their brief? Well, let’s just say it was brief. They were both given a drawing to study, one women’s and one men’s shoe—and then charged with the task of creating a look, with the focus being on outerwear pieces this year. “It was great that the direction was so minimal because we got to use full creative license,” says Bastin, whose shoulder for her men’s jacket was almost an exact footprint, so to speak, of the toe of the shoe.
With Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders, Richard Nicoll, Roksanda Ilincic, Louise Gray, and Mary Katrantzou as a few of her famous alumni, we just had to ask Wilson if she had an LFW favorite this season: “Well, I don’t like to pick and choose, but it has to be said that Louise Gray’s show was outstanding—she really went to another level of her career. If I was younger, I’d be wearing all that stuff. Well, maybe minus the mohawk.”
Miranda Kerr and puppies: Who could resist either of those? Not Bally—the label enlisted the Victoria’s Secret Angel, along with Julia Stegner, Cedric Bihr, Robert Konjic, and a pack of adorable pups, to star in its Spring ’12 ad campaign, shot by Norman Jean Roy. The photos, taken at Gstaad Palace Hotel in Switzerland’s Bernese heartland, tout Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler’s leather shoes, handbags, and ready-to-wear pieces, many of them inspired by the label’s rich archives. Here, a new behind-the-scenes video taken during the shoot.
There’s a new addition to the Labelux family—and it’s a boy! (Well, sort of.) The privately held Austrian luxury goods conglomerate has acquired Jimmy Choo, reportedly for the sum of $800 million. Choo joins Derek Lam and Bally in the Labelux clan. [Dealbook]
Will Snoop Dogg play the Moss/Hince nuptials? MTV U.K. cites an intriguing report—from one of the world’s most scurrilous tabloids, so take with a grain of salt—that the rapper is in talks with the super’s people. Apparently he’s the go-to choice of British royalty (actual, or in Kate’s case, sartorial). Snoop said on English TV that he’d also been asked to play Prince William’s “stag do” but had to attend a barbecue instead. [MTV U.K. via Racked]
Balmain sets out to court the kids with Pierre Balmain, a new diffusion line targeting younger customers. Men’s and women’s collections will debut for Spring 2012. [Telegraph]
YSL to the West End! Stefano Pilati and the label are designing costumes for a new revival of Harold Pinter’s drama Betrayal, starring fashion favorite Kristin Scott Thomas. It opens this month and runs through August in London. [WWD]
Gucci takes another step forward in its support of documentary film: The label and its corporate parent, PPR, have endowed a new prize for documentaries focusing on women’s issues. [Vogue U.K.]
2010 may go down in fashion history as the year we reclaimed our gym clothes. Designers embraced the mélange sweatshirt, which almost immediately became the piece to have. In Europe, Dries Van Noten kicked off the trend with his elegantly urbane Fall ’10 show. So did Isabel Marant, a longtime sweatshirt enthusiast, who gussied hers up with disco sparkle. In New York, the Marc Jacobs opened with a sleeveless sweatshirt on his then-new discovery Tati Cotliar, and Alexander Wang sent out plenty of big-shouldered versions at his football-themed Fall show.
Since then, the fever has raged on. While girls on a budget have discovered that The Gap makes a pretty serviceable version, big spenders went wild for Bally’s three-figure version, one of the new ideas from the label’s new designers, Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz, who showed them for Spring. And just yesterday, in his pre-fall collection, Phillip Lim debuted his own new take (left)—one that was inspired by the slouchy sweats his assistants were wearing to the office. His model comes embellished with crystals for a piece that’ll play anywhere. “Smart move,” wrote Nicole Phelps. With its new glamour, it’s as ready for the office as the after-party—and officially emancipated from the gym.