Style.com

July 23 2014

styledotcom A sophisticated pixie is the perfect summer cut. stylem.ag/1qOiJKG pic.twitter.com/9ugI3E89BV

Subscribe to Style Magazine
4 posts tagged "Barbara Casasola"

The Split-Second Preview: Barbara Casasola

-------

The Fall ’14 Ready-to-Wear collections are under way in London, and will be followed by the shows in Milan and Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.

Barbara Casasola

WHO: Barbara Casasola

WHERE: London

WHEN: Tuesday, February 18

WHAT: “Pared back but sensual” —Barbara Casasola. The designer sent us a snap of her Fall ’14 mood board, above.

Photo: Courtesy of Barbara Casasola

A Room of One’s Own: Barbara Casasola Presents at Pitti

-------

Barbara Casasola

Nearly a hundred years ago, a famous lady of London dreamt of a room of her own. But times change and dreams get bigger. “I’ve always wanted a big house,” said the Brazilian-born, London-based designer Barbara Casasola, “with a red room, a blue room…” With an invitation to present a collection at Pitti Uomo and a little sponsorship funding from the fair, suddenly, like a wish on a bottle, it was so. She divided a crumbling but impressive structure on the Via Dello Studio—just off the city’s historic center and steps from the Duomo—into an apartment the likes of which have rarely been seen outside of fever dreams. One room was all brilliant fuchsia. Another, connected to the first by a long runway, was a teal-tinted blue. And everywhere, in lieu of windows, were screens projecting a Nouvelle Vague-inspired short film Casasola created with SHOWStudio’s Marie Schuller and Jamie Bochert (below). Bochert is a muse for Casasola, and this, the designer said, gesturing around, “is her house.” The sense was very much of peeking behind the blinds, not least because Bochert spends much of the film nearly nude. (Admittedly, that’s a magnanimous and somewhat curious decision for a designer to make for a film devoted to showcasing her own collection.)

The collection Casasola showed in her new digs was technically her first Pre-Fall, but she disliked the idea of a whole collection dedicated to commercializing her runway looks. Instead, she conceived of it as a capsule collection of, as she called it, menswear for women. It was a striking change, given that she’s known primarily for dresses. But for a first attempt—especially one boldly undertaken at a menswear fair—it was a strong showing. She custom-developed fabrics, including wools, wool-silks, and cady, to create monochrome suits with boxy jackets and deep-pleated palazzo pants, structured enough to retain the strict lines she prefers but pliant enough to swing like skirts when her models strode the catwalk from the pink room to the blue. Each was worn against bare skin, which lent an androgynous sex appeal not usually associated with tailoring. There were a few dresses and looser interpretations of her men’s-for-women’s theme—like jumpsuits whose backs had cutouts resembling lapels—but Casasola herself was in a suit of her own design (the prototype, she admitted), which suggested where her own sympathies lie, at least at the moment.

Womenswear designers at Pitti Uomo can sometimes seem adrift in the unfamiliar crowd of men’s buyers and editors, but Casasola is no stranger to Florence. Before launching her label, she worked here for Roberto Cavalli, and she produces her own collection here. “I invited the whole office,” she said with a smile. “All my seamstresses are here, and my patternmakers.” So the presentation was full of friends. She’d bargained for a house and wound up with a home.

Photo: Courtesy of Barbara Casasola

Huishan Zhang Wins 2013 Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize

-------

Huishan ZhangChinese designer Huishan Zhang, who landed on our radar this past summer, is the latest recipient of the Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize, which, includes a £25,000 award and mentorship. The 30-year-old Central Saint Martins alum was among four other finalists—Emilia Wickstead, Barbara Casasola, and Fyodor Golan—who presented their Spring 2014 collections to a panel of judges at the Dorchester Hotel on Tuesday night. “I was enjoying my night already, no matter what,” Zhang told WWD. “I thought I’d have another glass of Champagne then go home but now we might have to open a bottle!” Previous winners include Thomas Tait, Anndra Neen, and Augustin Teboul.

Photo: Courtesy Photo

The Dorchester Prize Looks to London

-------

A look from Emilia Wickstead's Fall '13 collectionThe royal baby isn’t the only big news out of London this week. This morning, in the Big Smoke, the Dorchester Collection announced the nominees for its 2013 Fashion Prize, all of whom happen to be London-based. Fyodor Golan, Barbara Casasola, Emilia Wickstead (left), and Huishan Zhang will now compete for the grand prize: a 25,000 pound bursary and mentorship, plus a two-night stay at one of the Collection’s über-luxe hotels. The big winner will be revealed on October 29, pending the results of a private catwalk presentation before a panel of judges, including stylist Caroline Issa and designer Daniella Helayel. The prestigious accolade was conceived to help designers in their professional infancy. To be eligible, brands must be between two and five years old. Previous recipients of the award include Thomas Tait and Anndra Neen.

Photo: Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead