96 posts tagged "Barneys"
Esteban Cortazar caused a sensation when he landed on the New York catwalks back in 2002. His very first collection was snapped up by Bloomingdale’s, and he found himself face-to-face with Oprah, the youngest designer ever, at 18, to stage a fashion show. Fast-forward twelve years (which included a brief stint at Emanuel Ungaro) and Cortazar is angling for the headlines again. This time the news is the manner in which he’s presenting his expanded eponymous range.
For two seasons, he distributed his collection strictly through Net-a-Porter. Now, with new investors, London’s MH Luxe, behind him, he’s got Barneys and The Webster signed on, too. Those stores have already previewed his Spring collection (normally seen in September and October) and placed orders that he’s currently in the midst of producing. Come Paris fashion week, he’ll present the collection to the press, and, as he puts it, “the first drops will start right after [the show] at the beginning of October. When all the communications start happening, the client can know she can have it right away.” (The collection, which ranges from a molded saddle leather top to a soft T-shirt with a good yard of fringe circling the hem and includes more traditional tailoring, is designed to be trans-seasonal.)
Fashion has been griping for years about the lag time between runway shows and store deliveries. “Why not do something that speaks to the future?” Cortazar asks. “It doesn’t make sense anymore to show a collection that won’t be in stores for six months—the momentum and the desire dissipate. Everyone likes to see everything instantly now, but [up until now] no one’s been able to buy instantly.” Will other designers follow Cortazar’s lead? If they do, the trickle-down effect could be huge for traditional fashion magazines, which need production time of their own to turn around new issues. But he reports that buyers “are responding in a really positive way.”
Style.com debuts a video about the project exclusively here.
Barneys New York has announced a partnership with one of the NBA’s de facto style stars, Russell Westbrook. The Oklahoma City Thunder point guard has famously shown a certain brio when it comes to postgame attire, which some note has rubbed off on other league members. Now Westbrook will bring that élan to Barneys’ XO Exclusively Ours, curating a capsule of pieces from the likes of Marcelo Burlon County of Milan, Selima Optique (oversize red specs, anyone?), Nike Jordan, and Del Toro, among others. The more than sixty-piece offering will be available in stores and online from mid-July. And with a roster like that, we’d imagine Barneys has a slam dunk on its hands.
Until Barneys started carrying Delvaux bags a few years ago, the brand was a luxurious secret of sorts. Unless you were a fashion editor, luxury buyer, or particularly knowledgeable about Belgian leather goods, you probably didn’t come across the label. Even today, Delvaux maintains a level of enviable anonymity in a sea of It bags, excessive logos, and knockoffs. (In other words, you likely won’t see a Delvaux copycat lying on the Canal Street sidewalk.) To celebrate the brand’s distinct heritage and legacy, Delvaux commissioned Belgian-based photographer Marc Lagrange to shoot a portrait series called “Timeless Beauties” with elegant mothers and daughters, families, and close friends. From the iconic top-handle Brillant to the sculptural Tempête, each Delvaux bag is depicted as a treasured family heirloom. Lagrange began shooting here in New York, but will travel around the world to Brussels, Paris, Tokyo, Shanghai, and Hong Kong. A behind-the-scenes glimpse at the project, including shots of Zani and Jeannette Gugelmann, Melia and Mirabelle Marden, and more, debuts exclusively here.
Wendy Nichol wants you to fuck off.
Or rather, Wendy Nichol wants you to wear an FU, a shockingly elegant proposition thanks to the designer’s latest capsule collection of jewelry and small leather goods. “I got this T-shirt and it says ‘Fuck You’ on it, in black and white. I like how hilarious it is, to just be so straightforward,” said Nichol. This breed of Canal Street vendor-Zen, as it turns out, pairs prettily with Nichol’s brand of downtown chic. The resulting pieces, which debut exclusively here, are luxe and quietly cheeky. A sculpted bronze hand, middle digit extended, is downright elegant as the closure to a supple black cowhide wallet, and flipping the bird never looked as good as it does supplemented by Nichol’s new rings, available in gold, bronze, and silver (with either oxidized or pavé talons). Any initial concerns about the salability of her strong message were easily dismissed. “I was a little bit worried about that aggressive message, but I just thought that there was so much fun and play in it that I knew people would see the humor.” Nichol’s hunch was spot-on, it seems: The pieces have been pre-selling briskly at her Soho boutique, and Barneys picked up the collection right away. “It’s like a private joke. As I’m taking out my wallet, people are like, ‘Oh, my God, is that what I think it is?’” the designer laughed. “It’s what every New York girl needs.” And should come in handy the next time a chap on the street urges you to “Smile, sweetheart.”
Jewelry is on sale now at Wendy Nichol (147 Sullivan Street, New York City), with leather goods available for preorder. The collection will be arriving at Barneys New York mid-May.
There’s a new movement in New York. It encompasses labels like Hood by Air, Virgil Abloh’s Off-White, and the Been Trill collective; intersects with the digital platform-cum-real-world retailer VFiles; and includes someone like Telfar Clemens. These designers play in the high-fashion space, but they don’t need it because they communicate directly—in both an emotional and commercial sense—with their audience, a peer group who doesn’t so much celebrate difference as shrug it off. The performance artist Boychild, sitting front-row here, is the movement’s, well, Poster Boychild. Clemens showed his new collection—workwear tweaked in proportion and fabrication, including a cool riff on an Ugg boot in detachable leather sections—at the top of the New Museum, but the real action was downstairs in the lobby, where he was simultaneously selling his sweatshirts to a heaving sea of hipsters. Collectively, there’s an energy among this group that the city hasn’t seen since the eighties, and mainstream fashion ought to pay attention, because as VFiles’ Julie Anne Quay will tell you, this is the future.
At their best, Thom Browne’s shows walk a tightrope between horror and humor. I felt a bit of that tension was missing in yesterday’s religion-themed potboiler, but the last look, a gold dress with a train so heavy that the model looked like she could topple off the raised catwalk at any moment—a true fall from grace, as it were—had that echt Browne frisson. Was the girl a victim or a knowing co-conspirator in this act of cruelty? I doubt I’m the first to say Browne is the Hitchcock of fashion.
It seemed almost as cold inside the raw space on Wall Street that Donna Karan chose as the venue for her thirtieth anniversary collection as it was outside. To be fair, Karan’s team presumably scouted the location months ago, when the Polar Vortex was just a twinkle in Al Roker’s eye, but for a moment it seemed as if the designer might lose her audience. She won them back at the end with a series of sensuous dresses that were a fitting tribute to her unique and highly influential gifts. I got goose bumps—or maybe it was frostbite.
BARNEYS CELEBRATES ITS “BROTHERS, SISTERS, SONS & DAUGHTERS” CAMPAIGN
The highlight of the Barneys dinner in honor of the seventeen transgender models who are featured in the retailer’s new ad campaign was a film by Bruce Weber. Weber tells the campaign stars’ stories straightforwardly, movingly, and with his inimitable offhand grace. His movie ought to be compulsory viewing across America.