4 posts tagged "Benjamin Kirchhoff"
It’s been a big week for British ready-to-wear label Meadham Kirchhoff. Designed by Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff, the brand, which is best known for its highly intricate and deliciously eccentric looks, launched its first capsule for Topshop earlier this week. (To our disappointment, some of our favorite items are already sold out.) Today, it was announced that the designers will be the stars of the Victoria & Albert Museum’s next Fashion in Motion event. Scheduled for December 6, the spectacular will offer four runway shows featuring the greatest hits from the brand’s seven years on the womenswear circuit. Here’s hoping that LED dance floor from the pair’s Fall ’12 disco collection (left) makes its way to the museum.
Sheers were regulars on the trend circuit long before Beyoncé appeared at the 2012 Met Gala wearing a diaphanous Givenchy gown. The look’s staying power comes from its versatility. “Unlike other fabrics,” explained fashion consultant Yasmin Sewell, “a single layer allows a designer to explore possibilities in depth and illusion.”
A quiet translucence has taken effect on the womenswear front. Sass & Bide (above, center) showed a Resort ’14 collection with long, sheer panels over simple skirts. Vera Wang traded minimalism for romance by piling on the sheer layers. In one instance, a delicate dot-pattern shift appeared underneath another shift embroidered with matte paillettes. Known for his cool and straightforward aesthetic, Phillip Lim (above, right) produced sheer shorts in white and blue for his latest play-while-you-work collection.
When it came to sheers in menswear, London-based designers were among the first to experiment. The various incarnations were far more structured, referencing traditional tailoring. Meadham Kirchhoff (above, left) offered a lineup of translucent jackets crafted from yellow-tinged and cloudy green rubber. Benjamin Kirchhoff denied any sort of deeper meaning in its use, but he did confess to being moved by the fabric’s texture. Christopher Shannon (above, center) went so far as to wet sheer nylon in an effort to capture an out-all-night-clubbing vibe. “I’d never want it to look too soft, so we used some really fine nylons as layers this season,” Shannon told Style.com. “It’s something that felt modern and sporty but had fluidity.”
The Fall ’13 season is now well under way, and as we follow the shows to London, Milan, and Paris, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Naturally, it’s a busy time for everyone—designers and fashion watchers alike—so we’re pioneering the split-second preview: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. To view all of our Fall ’13 previews, click here.
WHO: Meadham Kirchhoff, designed by Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff
WHEN: Tuesday, February 19
WHAT: “This collection is dedicated to the long-distant memory of integrity.” —Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff. The designers sent us an inspiration image for their Fall ’13 collection, which they’ve titled Helter Skelter, above.
A quote from Louise Bourgeois greeted attendees at today’s Meadham Kirchhoff show: “My knives are like a tongue,” read the flyer left on the seats. The rest of the quotation is worth citing, too—”My knives are like a tongue—I love, I do not love, I hate. If you don’t love me, I am ready to attack.”—because if the clothes on the M/K runway conjured that sentiment abstractly, it was all but literalized by the jewelry affixed to the models’ shoes. Created by Jordan Askill, in collaboration with Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff, the electroplated resin adornments licked out from the heels of the oxfords worn with every look, appearing birdlike from one angle, bladelike from another. “Ben and Ed wanted something fragile for the shoes,” explained Askill. “Something in contrast to the stompy-ness of the shoe itself, fragile and precious.” Askill developed the Meadham Kirchhoff shoe jewelry from a sculpture of a bird he’d been working on; now the shoe jewelry has, in turn, inspired Battle Cat, the sculpture he’s installing at the Fashion East menswear presentation later this week. Menswear editors ought to keep their eyes peeled for Askill’s wares, as well as his artwork—he worked with Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme prior to launching his eponymous jewelry range last year, and his pieces are sold at Dover Street Market and Rick Owens. The Meadham Kirchhoff collaboration is his first, but Askill’s strategy of snatching inspiration wherever it finds you is well honed. “Found objects, movies I’ve seen, memories, watching the way birds fly together, in one shape,” he says, reeling off reference points. “Whatever’s on my mind, basically.”