58 posts tagged "Bergdorf Goodman"
Uniqlo recruits from fashion, but its aims are larger than fashion. That was the overriding message at this week’s presentation of its new self-designated category: LifeWear. “Yanai-san always says Uniqlo is not sportswear or casualwear,” said the company’s design director, Naoki Takizawa. “We have a function. This is clothing for a new category.” Yanai-san is Mr. Tadashi Yanai, founder of Uniqlo’s parent company, Fast Retailing, and his ambitions are global. No surprise that Uniqlo’s push into the U.S. and globally in the last few years will keep going strong. The label will open more stores here in the next year, as many as 20 in 2014 alone. “It’s a very interesting approach for me,” said Takizawa, who prior to joining Uniqlo was creative director at Issey Miyake. “Fashion is a segment. But Uniqlo is design for 100 million pieces, 100 million people.”
In observance of the fact that 100 million global customers won’t follow the same trends, Uniqlo is reorganizing itself to put function at the forefront. The U.S. may go in for a different look than Japan or elsewhere, but an American customer, like a Japanese one, wants to be cool in the summer and warm in the winter. She’ll appreciate the new breathable AIRism fabric (developed, according to the package, with “Toray Industries Inc.”) for the former, and Uniqlo’s successful Heattech, the product of eight years of development, for the latter. The company sees itself less as a design studio than a laboratory: developing new fibers and fabrics, competing not with other fashion companies so much as with its own past performance. “Uniqlo doesn’t need to change a lot every season,” Takizawa said. He likened its product development more to the incremental upgrades of the iPhone: first the 4, then the 5.
So for the present, Uniqlo will focus on nine categories, both established success stories (stretch denim, affordable cashmere, fleece) and new areas of interest and innovation (silk being key among them). You can expect to see and feel that change in Uniqlo stores come August. But all of this is not to say fashion is being discounted. Nicola Formichetti, who will continue in his role as the company’s creative fashion director even now that he’s been named Diesel’s creative director, styled the presentation of Fall looks to the editorial hilt. (Strong support was provided by Katsuya Kamo, the Japanese hairstylist and milliner who created the headpieces for the presentation; label brass made sure to note that he’s previously worked with Comme des Garçons and Chanel.) And Yuki Katsuta—the head of research and design, who arrived at Uniqlo via Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys, and Ralph Lauren—continues to search for designers with whom to collaborate, and new ways in which to do so. He’s just coming off a partnership with his old Bergdorf’s colleague Michael Bastian for a new kind of capsule collection: one limited entirely to one category, the polo shirt. It’s been going gangbusters in Japan, and arrives at U.S. Uniqlo stores later this month.
Label: Wilfredo Rosado
Need to Know: After years of working with Giorgio Armani, Wilfredo Rosado realized his dream was to launch his own fine jewelry collection. And in 2011, he did just that. Top international retailers like Bergdorf Goodman and Lane Crawford quickly snatched up his unique pieces. His cameos were an instant success, Gwyneth Paltrow wore his pink feather and diamond earrings to the 2011 Grammys, and ever since debuting his first collection, editors and buyers alike have championed his extravagant, eccentric take on diamonds.
When asked about his Fall ’13 collection, Rosado told Style.com that he has always been a fan of the Smoke series of burned furniture by the Dutch designer Maarten Baas. He’s fascinated by the idea of creating high-luxury pieces and treating them as common, non-precious objects. You can’t get much more precious than 18-karat gold set with sapphires, diamonds, and emeralds. But for Fall, Rosado inlaid his decadent wares with burned wood. He tells us they’re meant to be worn as everyday accessories.
He Says: “Should I call this collection ‘HOT’? I just want women—or men, for that matter—to look and feel cool wearing it, without feeling like they’re wearing the family jewels!”
Where to Find It: Bergdorf Goodman, Just One Eye, Neiman Marcus
Bergdorf Goodman has rolled out the red carpet to celebrate its 111th year, and commissioned a full-length documentary to toast the occasion. But this week’s New Yorker pays tribute to a Bergdorf landmark that’s lesser-known—unless you happen to be Patricia Field, Isaac Mizrahi, or the late Babe Paley. Betty Halbreich is the ur-personal shopper: The woman behind Betty Halbreich’s Solutions, headquartered at the store, is one of Bergdorf Goodman’s longest-standing employees (hired 1976, following a stint at Geoffrey Beene), and, to judge from Judith Thurman’s new profile, one of its saltiest. Halbreich pulls no punches in laying out the good, the bad, and the ill-fitting for her clients, which include all manner of society wives, celebrities (Meryl Streep, Liza Minnelli, and Mia Farrow have passed through her hands), and TV shows (Sex and the City, Gossip Girl, and just about every daytime soap). “My work is like lay therapy,” is the way she describes her vocation to the magazine. “You listen, you prescribe—clothes are a fix—and you hold up a mirror. Most people can’t see themselves.” In her corner office, the doctor is in.
Since launching in 2009, R13 has been dedicated to refining rock-star staples like the artfully distressed pair of jeans (cut from premium Japanese denim and treated with specialty Turkish washes) or ultrasoft, cashmere-blend T-shirts. In keeping with their elevated classics, the label recently introduced equally luxe outerwear ($895 to $3,650) for Fall, which just hit high-end stores like Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman this week. Covetable leather motorcycle jackets come in full-on pony hair or with shaggy shearling trim (pictured), and have authentic biker details like twin track zippers. R13′s designer, who prefers to remain anonymous and let the product speak for itself, told Style.com, “The language of ‘cool’ is a very narrow one and we challenge ourselves to be fresh and innovative and still maintain a consistent message. I think our customer is looking for things that are new and distinctive and that would get them excited.” Trust us, average leather jackets, these are not.