61 posts tagged "Bergdorf Goodman"
Naming your label Road to Awe sets the bar pretty high. And Eli Azran and David Rimokh—the founders of the new L.A.-based denim and leathers brand launched under that moniker—vow to live up to those lofty expectations. “Road to Awe is a constant journey to perfection,” said the French-born Azran who, at 27, already has experience running three successful denim-centric lines. And while they’re both young (Rimokh, an L.A. native whose expertise lies in accessories and denim, is 26), the duo has demonstrated some serious business savvy. RtA’s first collection, which comprises an expansive range of highly developed washes and leather styles, focuses only on bottoms. For Spring '14, they’ll shine the spotlight on leather jackets and tops, and by Fall '14, the pair will have developed a complete collection. “In today’s market, it’s much easier to launch half a brand first,” explained Azran. “Then, by next fall, both categories will have launched properly, and we’ll be able to go full force.”
With the help of West Coast retail fixture Evelyn Ungvari—whose role, explains Azran, is to bring a feminine touch to the range—the business partners have turned out second-skin denim with unique pigments, coatings, and finishes (see the lacquered, bleached pair above), as well as a series of appealingly priced leather trousers (they start at $595). Fabrics are sourced from Japan, Turkey, and France, and all the wares are produced in L.A. (in fact, when we spoke to the duo, they were walking through one of their local factories). The concept behind the new line—which, quite impressively, has already been picked up by Bergdorf Goodman, Curve, and Ron Herman—is to create pieces with an authentic, vintage feel that cater to women’s everyday desires. “Some brands are so focused on their direction and vision that they ultimately forget what girls want,” offered Azran. And what do women want, exactly? “Simplicity,” he said. Rimokh chimed in. “The more we try to find out what women want, the less we know. That’s why we stick with simplicity.” Smart. And while we’re not sure that all women crave the simple life—it depends on who you ask, really—we have a feeling that lots of ladies will want to buy what these boys are selling.
RtA’s debut collection ranges from $165 to $1100 and is available at Bergdorf Goodman from today.
Nick Wooster’s dandyish look has long mesmerized menswear show-goers. With his handlebar mustache, tattoo sleeves, and eclectic outfits (like the embroidered shorts, relaxed blazer, and snazzy leopard Celine shoes he wore during this week’s Pitti fair, above), he’s crafted an aesthetic that’s uniquely his own. Having served as the mennswear fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, as well as the menswear creative director at JC Penney (a post he left in April of this year), Wooster is not only catnip for street style paps, but a seasoned industry expert. Here, the man talks to Style.com about Pitti, the state of menswear, and his plans for the future.
When did you first start coming to Pitti?
I did my first Pitti in January of 1988.
What’s changed since then
Absolutely nothing. Well, actually, in a certain way, nothing has changed, and then obviously, everything has. The heart of Pitti has always been the same. Look at someone like Lino or Peter Rizzo, who was the person who brought me to my first Pitti. He still comes, and so many of the players are the same. I think that’s the story of menswear, the story of Italy, and the story of Pitti.
You’re known for your personal style. Do you turn it up for the shows?
No. I mean, at the end of the day, I’ve always felt the need and desire to be different. The worst part for me is figuring out what I’m going to bring. I brought twice as much as I’m going to need so there’s always a bit of a problem in the morning, like, “Shit what am I going to wear?” But that’s the story of my life. I never know what I’m going to wear until I get out of the shower. Continue Reading “A Man’s World: Nick Wooster Talks Pitti” »
Have you ever urgently needed a Lanvin frock at 2 a.m.? What about a pair of Nicholas Kirkwood pumps. No? Even so, we bet guests at The Mark hotel will find a host of reasons for late-night sartorial demands. Starting tomorrow, The Mark—the five-star Upper East Side lodging establishment favored by Carine Roitfeld, Russell Crowe, and Marc Jacobs, who decamped to the hotel during Sandy—will launch a partnership with Bergdorf Goodman. The union will solve any and all designer emergencies, providing guests with twenty-four-hour access to Bergdorf’s personal shoppers and, in some cases, after-hours admission to the store itself. “We make the impossible possible,” the hotel’s chief concierge, Isabelle Hogan, told Style.com. Hard-to-get items will also be readily available—for instance, if, say, a new Céline bag hits shelves in the morning, The Mark will give Todd Okerstrom—Bergdorf’s head of personal shopping—a call, and you can have it sitting on your bed by lunchtime. Delivery is, of course, complimentary.
The Mark hotel is located at 25 East 77th Street, New York, NY 10075.
Uniqlo recruits from fashion, but its aims are larger than fashion. That was the overriding message at this week’s presentation of its new self-designated category: LifeWear. “Yanai-san always says Uniqlo is not sportswear or casualwear,” said the company’s design director, Naoki Takizawa. “We have a function. This is clothing for a new category.” Yanai-san is Mr. Tadashi Yanai, founder of Uniqlo’s parent company, Fast Retailing, and his ambitions are global. No surprise that Uniqlo’s push into the U.S. and globally in the last few years will keep going strong. The label will open more stores here in the next year, as many as 20 in 2014 alone. “It’s a very interesting approach for me,” said Takizawa, who prior to joining Uniqlo was creative director at Issey Miyake. “Fashion is a segment. But Uniqlo is design for 100 million pieces, 100 million people.”
In observance of the fact that 100 million global customers won’t follow the same trends, Uniqlo is reorganizing itself to put function at the forefront. The U.S. may go in for a different look than Japan or elsewhere, but an American customer, like a Japanese one, wants to be cool in the summer and warm in the winter. She’ll appreciate the new breathable AIRism fabric (developed, according to the package, with “Toray Industries Inc.”) for the former, and Uniqlo’s successful Heattech, the product of eight years of development, for the latter. The company sees itself less as a design studio than a laboratory: developing new fibers and fabrics, competing not with other fashion companies so much as with its own past performance. “Uniqlo doesn’t need to change a lot every season,” Takizawa said. He likened its product development more to the incremental upgrades of the iPhone: first the 4, then the 5.
So for the present, Uniqlo will focus on nine categories, both established success stories (stretch denim, affordable cashmere, fleece) and new areas of interest and innovation (silk being key among them). You can expect to see and feel that change in Uniqlo stores come August. But all of this is not to say fashion is being discounted. Nicola Formichetti, who will continue in his role as the company’s creative fashion director even now that he’s been named Diesel’s creative director, styled the presentation of Fall looks to the editorial hilt. (Strong support was provided by Katsuya Kamo, the Japanese hairstylist and milliner who created the headpieces for the presentation; label brass made sure to note that he’s previously worked with Comme des Garçons and Chanel.) And Yuki Katsuta—the head of research and design, who arrived at Uniqlo via Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys, and Ralph Lauren—continues to search for designers with whom to collaborate, and new ways in which to do so. He’s just coming off a partnership with his old Bergdorf’s colleague Michael Bastian for a new kind of capsule collection: one limited entirely to one category, the polo shirt. It’s been going gangbusters in Japan, and arrives at U.S. Uniqlo stores later this month.