13 posts tagged "Berlin Fashion Week"
There’s something to be said for the home-field advantage. When Hugo Boss-—based in Germany—elected to show its Hugo collection at Berlin fashion week, they went for broke, inviting 1,000 guests (including Hilary Swank, Eric Bana, and Ryan Kwanten) for a fashion show, dinner, and party at the Museum Island in the city’s center. Designer Eyan Allen looked back to the future for Spring. He called the collection Poetic Tailoring, but he seemed more to be channeling Star Trek with the sharp, clean lines, and stark palette of starship silver, glacial blue, white, and flame red. Silver lamé leggings and flowing dresses over second-skin white trousers gave a hint of the sixties.
Afterward, the catwalkers of today had no trouble imagining themselves in the goods. Georgia May Jagger, wearing a dress and lipstick in the same arresting red shown on the catwalk, cooed with Leah Woods over a sharp pantsuit worn by Jourdan Dunn. They both congratulated Allen on his bracing palette, too. A different opinion came from a model old enough to remember the sixties the first time around: Veruschka. “I love that Hugo’s clothes are wearable,” she said. “But I would rather wear the menswear, especially the apronlike coverall jackets, because I can’t see many men wearing them and someone should. I especially love how Hugo reduces it to one strong color, whether ice, silver or red. But really, I mostly wear what I bought 30 years ago. When something is strong, it stays worth keeping.” Or, you might say, reinterpreting.
In between the men’s shows and Couture (kicking off today), you could be forgiven for bypassing Bebelplatz. But Berlin fashion week, which ended yesterday, sent out several polished collections last week, and celebs like Tilda Swinton and Chloë Sevigny found time to touch down in the front rows.
For trend trackers, the seventies mood that prevailed for Spring may not be going anywhere soon: Rena Lange, Laurèl (above, right), Allude, and Schumacher worked a Me Decade vibe—think a long-locked and fresh-faced Meryl Streep as muse. For something a little more structured, Hugo by Hugo Boss turned out sleek, crisp daywear and cocktail looks in a palette of black, red, and white. (The elegant show at the Neue Nationalgalerie attracted the aforementioned celebs.) For Berlin’s rowdy nightlife scene, Kaviar Gauche’s PVC tees, paired with cream-colored silk trousers, could be a good bet; and Vladimir Karaleev’s sculptural wool pieces (above, left), inspired by repeated listenings to Nirvana’s Unplugged, have a grunge sensibility that feels as fresh now as it did the first time around.
Leyla Piedayesh’s sophisticated and sexy Lala Berlin collection (above) continues to be a Berlin highlight. Inspired by children’s arts and crafts, dresses, trousers, and full, boxy suits came printed in emerald, blue, and acid lemon, a pattern like marbled paper. The shimmery details on a tiny, slinky dress looked like glitter or sprinkles, but this was a grown-up collection.
Color psychology theorists tell us that orange signifies high energy. Fitting, then, that it’s been all over the Berlin catwalks—this season’s Berlin fashion week, kicked off by Calvin Klein yesterday, has got a renewed vigor. The local line Mongrels in Common mixed sherbet shades of orange with sky blue and navy. The luxe cashmere label Allure went for contrast, too, with vibrant orange panels sewn into deep-sea turquoise tap pants, sweater dresses, and cardigans. But the most arresting splash of vibrant orange came at Lala Berlin, where designer Leyla Piedayesh extended her signature keffiyeh scarf prints into sensual floating neon orange sheer kaftans and jumpsuits (pictured). (The palette was inspired, Piedayesh said, by a fantasy of Kurt Cobain in Africa—with the sandy orange, it looked sub-Saharan.) You might think that with Germany out of the World Cup, and the Dutch Orangemen in, the color would be verboten, but one prominent Teuton remained upbeat. As this reporter left the Lala Berlin show, Boris Becker—a front-row presence at Berlin fashion week—pointed to my radiation-orange vintage c.neeon tank and proclaimed, “Orange is good.” His glowing tan attested to it.
On some of the stages at Berlin fashion week, the mood was a little…matronly. German fashion has the reputation for being stringent, but the many shows this season just felt conservative, or too kooky, and in need of a little juice. Luckily, a few designers provided for a much-needed jolt of energy. Michael Sontag’s artfully tailored collection was ageless and elegant. And on the opposite end of the spectrum, Michael Michalsky’s supremely showy show was extravagant. He called the collection “Heinrich Zille’s ‘Mein Milljöh’—Version 2.0,” inspired by the iconic caricaturist’s turn-of-the-century cartoons of class struggle; the clothes may have paid tribute to the struggle, but the opulent party afterward was all ruling-class. (That’s Michalsky, pictured left.) A crowd of 2,000 guests, including the ones from the night’s preceding Lala Berlin and Kaviar Gauche shows, grooved to the cult eighties band Spandau Ballet and DJ Hell. The result was pure Broadway. Michalsky’s tuxes (for men and women) and disco-silver jumpsuits didn’t exactly scream Zille, but why be a stickler? No one was matronly here, thank you very much, and all hand-wringing about the economy was, for a night, put to rest.