4 posts tagged "Bobby Abley"
Believe it or not, it’s already time to start thinking about the Spring ’15 collections. The menswear shows kick off in London on June 15, and this season, Topman and Fashion East’s MAN initiative will continue its support of up-and-coming talents by offering three emerging designers the chance to send their collections down the runway. For Spring ’15, MAN alum Bobby Abley (left), whose quirky, quintessentially British looks have been worn by M.I.A, A$AP Rocky, and Azealia Banks, will be joined by two fresh faces: Nicomede Talavera and Liam Hodges. The former is a Central Saint Martins grad who’s already amassed an impressive group of stockists since his Fall ’14 debut at Fashion East. The latter, another Fashion East alum, aims to explore a new, democratic breed of luxury, and counts Drake among his fans. “MAN really does continue to nurture new talent,” Topman’s Gordon Richardson told Style.com. “With 26 designers graduating to date, it continues to provide the future of menswear with the aspiring young talent that may prosper and grow into the big stars of the future.” Considering that the likes of J.W. Anderson, Craig Green, Agi & Sam, and Astrid Andersen all got their menswear starts on the MAN stage, we look forward to seeing what Spring’s promising trio turns out during the show on June 15.
The Fall ’14 menswear collections kick off in London on Monday, and will be followed by the shows at Florence’s Pitti Uomo, in Milan, and in Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Bobby Abley, who will be showing with the MAN initiative
WHEN: Monday, January 6
WHAT: “Mickey Mouse trapped in a haunted house. A dark palette mixed with animated gore and glow-in-the-dark details. My Fall man is cartoon chic. “—Bobby Abley. The designer sent us a detail shot of one of his Fall ’14 looks, above.
Watch out, Givenchy Bambi sweatshirt. For their latest project, the Fashion East crew has given fantasy characters their own, very East London treatment, and the results are filled with quirky tongue-in-cheek charm. Ever After High is the recently released Mattel line of dolls that—meant to be the children of famous fairy-tale characters—are creating a buzz among kids 10 and under. To its credit, Mattel is doing a pretty good job of including mom in the party: It’s asked Fashion East alums Ashley Williams, Claire Barrow, Ryan Lo, and Bobby Abley to give their take on the toys via a handbag.
Using dolls like Apple White (Snow White’s daughter), Blondie Lockes (Goldilocks’ offspring), Raven Queen (the Evil Queen’s wee one), and Madeline Hatter (the Mad Hatter’s little girl) as references, the designers were certainly not at a loss for inspiration. Abley’s gym bag boasts a hapless bear, Lo’s oh-so-sweet pompom-embellished offering is sure to be a conversation starter, and Barrow’s lush purple velvet creation is embellished with a smashed mirror that reads, “Who is the fairest of them all?” The kicker is the plush raccoon bag envisioned by Williams (who, it should be noted, sent shark purses down her Spring ’14 catwalk). With its little mask and multicolored tail, it’s instantly covetable: Better keep it on the highest shelf in your closet, where daughters cannot reach.
Each handbag comes in a limited edition of three and will be available at Selfridges in London from October 18.
The opening day of London’s menswear shows began by looking into the past. Things kicked off with a celebration of Belstaff’s new collaboration with Goodwood Racing (left). The lower-priced moto-inspired collection will launch with fanfare at Harrods next month. “In the history of British motor sports, Goodwood and Belstaff are almost inseparable,” said creative director Martin Cooper, who was looking forward to spending a day or two at the estate of his cohost, the Earl of March, racing’s unofficial peer. Featuring Lord March’s family tartan on waxed jackets and hidden inside linings, the new collection was worn by models perched on vintage bikes outside the members club where the presentation was held. The bikes belonged to Sammy Miller, Britain’s former number-one trials rider (now an avid collector). Not far away, Bally was celebrating history, too: its place as the boot supplier to Tenzing Norgay’s 1953 Everest expedition. A replica pair of the boots Norgay wore was displayed, but the new Everest collection was lighter and more city-friendly (case in point: the seamless, waterproof “double” hiking boot co-designer Graeme Fidler was enthusing over). Bally showed deerskin bags, too. They came in the form of expeditioner backpacks, but also, for the nonclimbers, as a weekender.
But it was the future that was on view at Fashion East, the clutch of up-and-comers installed at Carlton Gardens, Meadham Kirchhoff among them. Bobby Abley had rigged up a UFO craft with a spaceman model inside. More of this earth was Kit Neale’s greasy-spoon setup, with models lingering over plates of chips (left). Neale is a print-meister, preferring psychedelic patterns in brash colors, but this season he moved away from the digital prints he’s favored in the past and back toward more traditional screen-printing. Those played nicely off the hand-done Dalmatian dots of Joseph Turvey’s collection (shown alongside mewling pups), which had a graphic punchiness in black and white. Maarten van der Horst and Nasir Mazhar rounded out the lot.
If London needed a representative for the present between past and future, you could say Hunter Gather (left) took that spot. The brainchild of famed stylist and brand consultant David Bradshaw (his handiwork has shaped Versace, Jil Sander, and more), the new contemporary label and shop on Wigmore Street celebrated its official debut. There were great colorful knits (in raspberry and mustard), tailoring, and even shearling jackets. The easy-to-swallow pricing felt right for the here and now, as did the emphasis on sourcing insight from the crowd—from collaborators to the design team to friends Bradshaw’s made over the course of his career. “I’m the creative director,” Bradshaw said with a hint of modesty. “The ideas come from the collective.” And, he added in a bit of 2013 wisdom, the store is great, but “it’s all about the Web site.”