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5 posts tagged "Bodkin"

Jewelry Fit For The Stage—And Elsewhere

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DLC Brooklyn is a far cry from your average rock ‘n’ roll-inspired jewelry line—no skulls, safety pins, or punk totems here. But that’s not to say music hasn’t inspired designer Susan Domelsmith’s statement creations. “It’s very intertwined,” Domelsmith says of her line and her band, Open Ocean. Take, for instance, the guitar charms featured in DLC Brooklyn’s current collection: “I would never have thought of that if I wasn’t playing music. It takes things a bit further and helps me understand jewelry that’s good for the stage.” Of course, it doesn’t hurt that Open Ocean is basically a fashion-world super-group. Domelsmith plays keyboards alongside Bodkin designer Eviana Hartman, Teen Vogue accessories editor Sarah Kuhn, and Jill Bradshaw, the former owner of beloved NYC boutique I Heart.

But for non-rockers, DLC Brooklyn—whose pieces are all crafted from vintage and deadstock materials save for their clasps—offers plenty of looks equally befitting the office or after-hours at Le Bain. Domelsmith moved to New York in 2006; she launched her line two years prior, while working at an Austin boutique. Since then the line has grown immensely, with placement in boutiques like the Lower East Side’s Kaight. She’s also signed on to curate a selection of vintage jewelry for the online retailer Market Publique, which debuts September 1. “I’ve collected a lot of pieces I can’t deconstruct or pieces I wouldn’t want to take apart because they’re so beautiful as is,” she explain. “So, I’ve just been holding onto them. I hate to let it go, but it’s nice to think someone else can wear and enjoy it.”
Frequency bracelet, $140, available at www.dlcbrooklyn.com.

Photo: Courtesy of DLC Brooklyn

Perfect Tenoversix

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What with the snow falling yet again on New York fashion week, it was tempting, yesterday, to fantasize about hopping a plane bound for L.A., sans return ticket. As it turned out, the snow abated by early evening, and the party for the Tenoversix pop-up at the Manhattan location of The Future Perfect brought the City of Angels to us. If founders Brady Cunningham and Kristen Lee can’t import the sunshine, they have, at least, transplanted Angeleno style: Some of the greatest hits from their popular West Hollywood boutique have been stocked on a compact cart at the front of The Future Perfect, including eighties-inspired jewelry by Rowena Sartin, Tenoversix-brand shoes, a curated collection of CDs, and Rodin essential oils, which Cunningham reports are selling out of the L.A. store the same day they’re stocked on its shelves. “We started out thinking we’d just have L.A. designers, but then we realized it was more about creating an L.A. vibe,” she explained, pointing out that the intricately hand-beaded jewelry by Brokenfab, a Lee discovery, actually comes from England. At the party, Brooklyn-based Bodkin designer Eviana Hartman brought a little local flavor to the proceedings as well. Her band, Open Ocean, played a set out of fuzzed-out rock for the packed crowd.

Photo: Kiel Mead

The Pratt Gallery’s Shades of Green

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Sustainable design? “It’s nearly impossible,” says Bodkin designer Eviana Hartman. “But I definitely make an effort to try. I really consider fabrics, and not just your usual 100 percent organic cottons.” Looking at a pair of Hartman’s navy shorts in a gorgeous, filmy re-purposed polyester at Pratt’s Ethics + Aesthetics = Sustainable Fashion exhibit, we were impressed by how far the movement has come. Central Saint Martins Ph.D. candidate Francesca Granata and textile conservator Sarah Scaturro co-curated the installation to highlight eco-minded U.S. designers and artists who, they say, tend to get short shrift. “I think the U.S. designers that have been thinking sustainable haven’t been recognized,” Granata explained. “In London, it’s a big part of fashion right now. That’s why we wanted to do this exhibit. It’s not just about using organic material. There are different ways to be sustainable.”

Of course, there are as many ways of designing as there are of being green (or trying to be). On one hand, there’s Mary Ping of Slow and Steady Wins the Race, who creates her collection from existing fabrics such as old school uniforms. On another, Max Osterweis of Suno. After starting his line with vintage Kenyan prints collected over the course of ten years, the designer is now dealing with supplying his rapidly expanding business. (Having Michelle Obama as a fan can’t hurt.) “I’ve had to start doing my own patterns, but everything is still inspired by and created in Kenya,” Osterweis explains. “I’m not so much thinking about how to be ‘green’ as being conscious of what I’m doing. And hopefully along the way I’m offering a valuable design, too.”

Ethics + Aesthetics = Sustainable Fashion runs through February 20 at Pratt Manhattan Gallery, 144 W. 14th St., 2nd floor, NYC, www.pratt.edu.

Bodkin and The Dalai Lama

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“It’s not easy being green,” quipped Bodkin designer Eviana Hartman at her presentation Monday afternoon. “People seem to forget that that’s how the song goes: It’s ‘not.’” Maybe so, but Hartman is making the creation of green fashion look like a breeze. The ex-TeenVogue and Nylon staffer has earned beaucoup press and plaudits for her less-than-a-year-old label. And this season, Bodkin became the first sustainably produced brand to land one of the coveted Ecco Domani awards. But as Hartman took pains to point out, Kermit had the green thing right all along. “Working sustainably imposes constraints,” Hartman acknowledged. “You can’t just think, ‘What do I want to make right now?’ You start there, but the next question is, ‘What’s possible? Can I dye that color organically? Is there a recycled fabric that exists that gets me to the right look?’” But the constraints also open up redemptive possibilities: For instance, Hartman’s Fall ’09 collection includes a berry-dyed patchwork dress made from silk blessed by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. “I needed to find a silk that hadn’t been treated synthetically,” she recalled, “and that led me to a factory that produces silk without killing the silkworms. So the factory was blessed by the Dalai Lama, and I guess that means all the silk it makes is blessed, too.” And she who wears the silk dress will be blessed, as well? “Hmm,” replied Hartman, looking skeptical. “I’d rather people just wear the dress because it looks cool.”

Photo: Don Arnold / WireImage

Bodkin Plus Bird: A Green Holiday

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From now until New Year’s, beloved Brooklyn retailer Bird will give holiday shoppers a preview of its third store, soon to open in Williamsburg. The Grand Street space will be the borough’s first silver-rated LEED-certified commercial renovation. In layman’s terms: Bird proprietor Jennifer Mankins has gone green, and much of the merch at the pop-up reflects that verdant choice. Among the limited-edition organic pieces by Steven Alan and animal-friendly accessories by Stella McCartney are several pieces from Brooklyn’s own Bodkin, the label designed by former Nylon editor Eviana Hartman with the help of Samantha Pleet. “Our friend Audrey Reynolds has been dyeing stuff for us in small batches,” explains Hartman of the eco-chic Bodkin product at Bird, which includes tie-dye dresses and bags. “Her ingredient list is insane,” adds Hartman. “To make the grey dye, she’s using sumac leaves, iris root, and boiled carob.” (No one said sustainability would be easy.) The Bodkin bags have been keeping Reynolds plenty busy. Though the Stormy tote (pictured here) started exclusively at Bird, due to popular demand, it will soon be available at L.A.’s TenOverSix and Chicago’s Hejfina boutiques.

Photo: Jacqueline Dimilia