10 posts tagged "Boucheron"
During the Fall ’13 Couture shows, which wrapped in Paris this weekend, houses debuted their jaw-dropping, and often blinding, haute joaillerie collections. Aside from a prominent seventies vibe, one thing came through loud and clear in the season’s jewelry presentations: a return to the statement stone (or perhaps we should say stones). Tina Isaac rounds up the most brilliant baubles from Dior, Chanel, Boucheron, Versace, and more, below.
CHER DIOR:“I always create families, so I think of these pieces as the babies of Dear Dior,” said Victoire de Castellane during a preview of her new line of high jewelry for the house, which she has dubbed Cher Dior. “I was thinking of specific words—like “fascinating,” “sparkling”—and thinking about how to render those in gems.” True to de Castellane’s style, the resulting 21 pieces are “classic without being classic”—an array of symmetrically designed, smaller, lighter wares with colorful center stones, lacelike settings, and surprising color combinations. Take, for example, the Exquise Emeraude earrings, whose central gemstones mismatch, or the riot of colored sapphires in the Majestueuse Multicolore necklace. The Jardin Avec Fleurs earrings, whose floral design and pastel colors seem lifted straight out of the eighteenth century, were de Castellane’s starting point and remain her favorite. “It’s like a game,” she said. “These are pieces that you can wear without ever getting bored.”
BOUCHERON: This year, Boucheron, the first jeweler to open shop on the Place Vendôme, is celebrating its 120th anniversary at that address. Because the light is particularly beguiling in its south-facing atelier, head jewelry designer Claire Choisne has devised an eight-chapter story—one episode for each of the eight facets of the Place Vendôme—dubbed the Hôtel de la Lumière. One of her masterpieces picks up on a 1948 latticework necklace in sapphire and diamonds, while completely modern rock-crystal pieces are inlaid with pavé diamonds. The Perles d’Eclat necklace, for example, features large rock-crystal beads held together by the diamond slices that the house pioneered; the beads gradually progress from frosted to transparent, and inside the transparent ones sits a 3-D bouquet of diamonds.
CHANEL: Gabrielle Chanel was known to say that she was “a worker bee born under the sign of Leo.” Because the powerful, protective beast is also the symbol of Venice, where the designer traveled to recover from Boy Capel’s death, and because the house recently signed on to sponsor the restoration of the winged lion atop St. Mark’s Basilica, Chanel presented the timely Sous le Signe du Lion, a 58-piece collection inspired by the majestic feline. Pieces ranged from literal (a diamond-covered Lion Céleste which, extrapolated from the Venice city insignia, shows the beast in profile with his paw atop a sizable diamond) to the CGI-worthy (Lion Mosaique features a lion’s head emerging in three-quarter profile from a gemstone background). The Lion San Marco ring, created in tribute to St. Mark’s Basilica, is carved from a piece of lapis lazuli and set in gold and platinum with a center diamond. Only five of these were produced, and they sold out well before couture week began. Continue Reading “Haute Bijoux and a Gemstone Phone” »
Things began to heat up at the French Open in Paris yesterday, as Jo-Wilfried Tsonga defeated Roger Federer, raising hopes for a hometown win. (The last time that happened was thirty years ago, when national icon Yannick Noah took home the trophy.)
Meanwhile, inside the French Tennis Federation’s museum, Lacoste invited a handful of guests to preview trophies of a different kind. To mark its eightieth birthday, the brand invited nine French luxury houses to interpret its crocodilian heritage—Hermès checked in with a tennis satchel in shiny pale green croc; Goyard with a roomy travel bag, and Boucheron with bejeweled renditions of the house logo. The idea was lying in wait in the archives, noted Boucheron creative director Claire Choisne: As it turns out, house founder René Lacoste commissioned a shimmering croc from Boucheron for his wife, Simone, in 1957.
This morning, the lineup was already packed up and headed to Colette, where it will grace the windows starting on Monday. But while some things, like the silver golf club by Christofle or those Boucheron pins, can be special ordered, others, like the Hermès and Goyard bags, are unique: The next time you’ll see them is when the Lacoste museum opens at its home base, in Troyes, sometime in 2014. Still, there is one accessible option for everyone: polo-striped éclairs by Fauchon, which will be available through June.
From Dior’s demure gowns to Maison Martin Margiela’s high-fashion denim, the Spring ’13 Haute Couture shows had a lot to offer. But when it comes to couture, no look is quite complete without some jewels to go with it. As the last collections walked the runways today, some of the biggest houses debuted their Haute Joaillerie collections in Paris. Tina Isaac reports back on the most opulent baubles from Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, and more.
Snakes are already trending for 2013—but it’s worth remembering that Boucheron has been turning them out for well over a century. For Spring, the house has rifled the archives and polished up hallmark designs from its first Serpent collection of 1968, giving them a more contemporary spin. Serpent rings in sculpted gold, beading, and the house’s signature snow setting—an eye-catching pavé of studied randomness—come with one head or two, in three sizes; pendants with honeycomb backs can be worn as a necklace or mounted as brooches on gold safety pins.
For the first time, Chanel dedicated its entire high jewelry collection—all ninety-nine pieces—to a single theme: the camellia. The flower appeared rendered every which way: mounted into 3-D diamond swirls; flattened into graphic diamond pavé etched with a black spinel border; sculpted in onyx and white coral; fashioned into a diamond, gold and lacquer ring rendition of Mademoiselle’s celebrated Coromandel screens; or articulated in a big, colorful “origami” of pink sapphires and other stones.
As a prelude to the presentation of her new collection next July, Victoire de Castellane showed a curated selection of additions to existing collections. These included a trio of slimmer caned rings and bracelets in the My Dior collection, a Les Précieuses garden-inspired necklace anchored by a sizable emerald, a Toi et Moi rose-shaped ring in diamonds and emeralds, and a unique set of antique cameos mounted into earrings for the Coffret collection. Meanwhile, the house’s watch lines are expanding fast. Colored gems offset black or white ceramic settings in the Dior 8 line, russet feathers fan into the skirt-shaped oscillating weight on the new model of the Grand Bal watch, and a trio of Mini D watches feature zingy fuchsia, turquoise, or neon yellow bands.
The latest addition to the Place Vendôme continues its travel through time, expanding the Vuitton galaxy with new takes on classic motifs. For instance, Vuitton showed new iterations of its lacy, articulated “knife edge” settings on a collar necklace. There was also a Monogram Infini fractal mandala and delicate bracelets mounted with the house’s signature star and flower cut diamonds. If there’s anyone out there who didn’t know the house was a new installation (Vuitton opened its Vendôme boutique and workshop in 2012), they could easily be forgiven for mistaking the diamond chandelier earrings for pieces that emerged from a bygone era.
Couture week isn’t only about clothes—as any couture buyer knows/em>
“In the 1950′s, Christian Dior styled couture gowns with costume jewelry that looked real—I just did the opposite,” said Dior jewelry designer Victoire de Castellane of her latest haute outing, Dear Dior (left). “It’s an exercise in style without going literal.” For the mounts, she recast in gold various lace motifs culled from the couture archives; her particular favorite is the Broderie Grenade Irisée ring in a spectrum of precious stones with a rare Welo fire opal blazing at the center.
Now that it has a high-jewelry flagship on the Place Vendôme, Louis Vuitton is rocketing the Monogram flower toward new frontiers of time and space with Voyage dans le Temps. The house signature gets pixelized, extrapolated, and reconfigured, for example, on a large cuff in diamonds and grand feu enamel. The pièce de résistance: a lace Peter Pan collar reworked as a supple necklace with diamonds reprising the Monogram motif and a front closure inspired by the hasps on a Vuitton trunk (below).
Speaking of stars, the Chanel galaxy is expanding rapidly—this summer will see the opening of an in-house jewelry atelier on the Place Vendôme—and in that spirit, the house erected a sizable planetarium of jewels atop the Musée Branly. It included a mix of the old (a diamond star brooch from 1932, a recently unearthed film of the original 1932 couture jewelry collection, this collection’s namesake, below) and the new (a giant tactile screen table—touch a jewel, read the archives). And, of course, a dazzling constellation of 80 new jeweled pieces, set in the round beneath a starry dome. Continue Reading “Star Power And More In Haute Joaillerie From Chanel, Dior, Van Cleef, Vuitton, And More” »
Couture wrapped up in Paris this week, but before the buyers and editors bid adieu to the season, the jewelers got to have their say. At the annual haute joaillerie day, several of the largest houses showed their fine jewelry collections. Below, the brightest and most extravagant baubles from Chanel, Dior, Van Cleef & Arpels, and more.
After her lover Boy Capel’s death, Coco Chanel traveled to Venice for a change of scene. The trip to the great port city opened the door to a new love story—one with exotic cultures (and their jewelry), from Istanbul to Russia and points East. Chanel’s haute jewelers channeled the visit with a colorful array of rubies, emeralds, and pink sapphires worked into an articulated necklace for the Mosaique suite and the Persian cuff (pictured). The house’s signature Camellia takes a lacy turn with delicate arabesques in white gold, diamonds and pearls, a creation that required untold hours of painstaking laser design.
Chez Dior Joaillerie, the setting, too, is a gem. When Peter Marino refurbished the house’s hôtel particulier on the Place Vendome, he complemented the jewels by incorporating exceptional pieces of art from the LVMH collection, like a gray butterfly relief by Damian Hirst and one-off lamps by Véronique Rivemal. It made a fitting home for Dior’s Crystal Vendome watches, and new additions to the Coffret de Victoire collection, like the bejeweled poissons combattants—or as we’d call them in English, Siamese fighting fish (pictured). Continue Reading “All That Glitters Is Gold—And Diamonds, Usually—At Paris’ Haute Joaillerie Day” »