12 posts tagged "Boucheron"
Couture week isn’t only about clothes—as any couture buyer knows, the accessories count, too. The haute joaillerie labels of the Place Vendôme opened their doors to debut their new high jewelry collections, as Style.com’s Tina Isaac reports.
“In the 1950′s, Christian Dior styled couture gowns with costume jewelry that looked real—I just did the opposite,” said Dior jewelry designer Victoire de Castellane of her latest haute outing, Dear Dior (left). “It’s an exercise in style without going literal.” For the mounts, she recast in gold various lace motifs culled from the couture archives; her particular favorite is the Broderie Grenade Irisée ring in a spectrum of precious stones with a rare Welo fire opal blazing at the center.
Now that it has a high-jewelry flagship on the Place Vendôme, Louis Vuitton is rocketing the Monogram flower toward new frontiers of time and space with Voyage dans le Temps. The house signature gets pixelized, extrapolated, and reconfigured, for example, on a large cuff in diamonds and grand feu enamel. The pièce de résistance: a lace Peter Pan collar reworked as a supple necklace with diamonds reprising the Monogram motif and a front closure inspired by the hasps on a Vuitton trunk (below).
Speaking of stars, the Chanel galaxy is expanding rapidly—this summer will see the opening of an in-house jewelry atelier on the Place Vendôme—and in that spirit, the house erected a sizable planetarium of jewels atop the Musée Branly. It included a mix of the old (a diamond star brooch from 1932, a recently unearthed film of the original 1932 couture jewelry collection, this collection’s namesake, below) and the new (a giant tactile screen table—touch a jewel, read the archives). And, of course, a dazzling constellation of 80 new jeweled pieces, set in the round beneath a starry dome. Continue Reading “Star Power And More In Haute Joaillerie From Chanel, Dior, Van Cleef, Vuitton, And More” »
Couture wrapped up in Paris this week, but before the buyers and editors bid adieu to the season, the jewelers got to have their say. At the annual haute joaillerie day, several of the largest houses showed their fine jewelry collections. Below, the brightest and most extravagant baubles from Chanel, Dior, Van Cleef & Arpels, and more.
After her lover Boy Capel’s death, Coco Chanel traveled to Venice for a change of scene. The trip to the great port city opened the door to a new love story—one with exotic cultures (and their jewelry), from Istanbul to Russia and points East. Chanel’s haute jewelers channeled the visit with a colorful array of rubies, emeralds, and pink sapphires worked into an articulated necklace for the Mosaique suite and the Persian cuff (pictured). The house’s signature Camellia takes a lacy turn with delicate arabesques in white gold, diamonds and pearls, a creation that required untold hours of painstaking laser design.
Chez Dior Joaillerie, the setting, too, is a gem. When Peter Marino refurbished the house’s hôtel particulier on the Place Vendome, he complemented the jewels by incorporating exceptional pieces of art from the LVMH collection, like a gray butterfly relief by Damian Hirst and one-off lamps by Véronique Rivemal. It made a fitting home for Dior’s Crystal Vendome watches, and new additions to the Coffret de Victoire collection, like the bejeweled poissons combattants—or as we’d call them in English, Siamese fighting fish (pictured). Continue Reading “All That Glitters Is Gold—And Diamonds, Usually—At Paris’ Haute Joaillerie Day” »
Couture week closed out in a blaze of multicolored carats that had editors scurrying from the Place Vendôme to Avenue Montaigne and back again. Not only does the new haute joaillerie day extend the ever-shrinking week by a day, it provided the big houses with a forum to preview their lavish creations for the 25th Biennale des Antiquaires, opening in Paris mid-September. This season, flora and fauna ran rampant.
Chanel dove into its archives and surfaced with a feather theme, anchored by the articulated brooch Diane Kruger wore in her hair at Cannes (pictured); it’s an exact replica of one created by Mlle. Chanel in 1932. An articulated cuff of pavé diamond feathers was trimmed in black diamonds and set with a hidden closure. The feathery wisps were echoed elsewhere, too, as with the Comet necklace, which drapes diamonds around the nape of the neck.
Boucheron took the feather theme literally for one of its unique suites, called Pretty Puff, in which multicolored diamonds were sprinkled over a puffball of white swan feathers. And since versatility is a coveted attribute in haute jewelry (necklace, with or without heavily jeweled brooch, for example), the house pushed the concept to the extreme with the Curlicue five-in-one concept that by turns could be a necklace, two bracelets, a diamond hair clip, or a brooch.
At Dior, a panorama of jewels spanned the classically beautiful—significant Les Précieuses engagement rings and the new Rose Dior Bagatelle rings covered with rubies or pink sapphires—to the more far-out, with one-of-a-kind items from Victoire de Castellane’s wild Coffret de Victoire. One cuff sets a pink tourmaline rabbit in a garden of fire-opal pumpkins; on another, a burnished silver monkey can be lifted from his bejeweled perch. Bollywood earrings, twined with serpents, hang over the ear, as they’re worn in India.
Van Cleef & Arpels drew inspiration from Jules Verne for its Les Voyages Extraordinaires collection, shown at a presentation staged by Argentinean theater director Alfredo Arias. The travels spanned oceans and terra firma. Over here, diamond-encrusted polar bears and penguins swanned on hefty tourmaline glaciers; there, an elephant head paved in gray and white diamonds, dangling a 41-carat topaz, stood in for the African leg of the jaunt. Several pieces were customizable: A whale brooch could spout a jet of diamonds, thanks to integrated springs—now you see it, now you don’t. And if, after all the creatures, you didn’t care for the menagerie, well, there were always the classical constellations—Calliope and Andromeda, re-created to scale.
Click here for a slideshow of haute joaillerie‘s key pieces.