12 posts tagged "Bouchra Jarrar"
Maybe designers just have Polar Vortex on the brain, but judging by the couture catwalks, it seems that furs are here to stay even for warm weather. For all intents and purposes, the counterintuitive trend was started (as so many are) by Miuccia Prada when she showed colorful fur coats and stoles on both Miu Miu‘s and Prada‘s Spring ’13 catwalks. The furry fad continued for Spring ’14, when Michael Kors, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Tom Ford, and, once again, Mrs. Prada swathed their models in fuzzy tops, scarves, and jackets.
Fast-forward to Spring ’14 Couture, where Donatella Versace proposed a cotton-candy-hued fur stole, as well as a lush violet coat, on her catwalk. Bouchra Jarrar also jumped on board, presenting models wrapped in haircalf and fur vests. “Oh, anything goes on the couture runways,” they’ll say. But hear this: Scorching furs are becoming prime red-carpet fodder, too. Just ask Liza Minnelli. Despite the fact that it was 84 degrees in L.A. on Saturday, the enduring style icon arrived at the SAG Awards in a snuggly fur-trimmed cape. Anyway, we thought we’d start spreading the news…
In less than four short years, designer Bouchra Jarrar has quietly accumulated a major following. Last year, she received the Chevalier dans l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres medal for her contribution to the French arts. No less an expert than Olivier Saillard has likened her to a “modern Vionnet.” And, as those who are smitten by Jarrar’s take on urban dressing (a killer Perfecto, a mean pair of trousers, an understated dress that needs no further embellishment) can attest, the designer is truly a couturière at heart.
Today, the Commission de Classement Couture—the body in charge of deciding who makes the grade as a Couture house—made it official: Jarrar is now a member of the Couture elite, and, it’s worth emphasizing, she’s the only female designer in the bunch. Indeed, her presence is a welcomed one in this male-dominated class of masters, and we can’t wait to see what she comes up with next.
Olivier Saillard—author, poet, star fashion curator—tends to prefer a contemplative moment over a grand event. He is also fond of saying that, had he ever studied fashion design, he would have done “just one dress” and then retired his tape measure.
Last night in Paris, he offered both. Eternity Dress, a fifty-one-minute performance starring Tilda Swinton, sponsored by Chloé, and staged at the École des Beaux-Arts this week as part of the city’s fall festival, has been sold out for months. In it, Saillard and Swinton explore the art of dressmaking, starting with lines and measurements (waist: 28 inches, and so forth) working up through flat patterns and the beginnings of a dress, which Swinton took a moment to sew on herself. As the dress took form, Swinton recited a litany of collar styles in French and released a world of emotion in the turn of a sleeve, finally draping herself in rich-hued chiffon and velvet unfurled from bolts lined up on the floor.
Ultimately, The Dress—a black sheath with long sleeves and an open back—was a stand-in for a century of fashion history, from Paul Poiret to Comme des Garçons. One of the show’s high points, as well as its biggest laugh, showed Swinton striking a series of emblematic poses for houses from Poiret to Yohji Yamamoto, by way of Chanel, Dior, Mugler, YSL, and Jean Paul Gaultier. Among a roomful of designers including Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Bouchra Jarrar, Martine Sitbon, and Clare Waight Keller, Haider Ackermann was first on his feet for the ovation. “It’s absolutely a piece of my life,” said Waight Keller. “They’ve taken everyday materials like tape and chalk and elevated them to an art form about designing a dress from scratch. It’s about craft, measuring, and a considered approach. It’s poetry.”
“One of the things about Tilda is that she can do anything,” noted Saillard after the performance. “She’s not a ‘fashion girl,’ so she can be a sculpture, an actress, a woman, a man, she can be 18 or 75 years old. It was like we were in a bubble, and the experience gave us lots of new ideas. Fashion has to be surprising.”
At the small cocktail party held afterward at Lapérouse, Swinton added, “Olivier is a playmate. We work and play together and come up with crackers ideas for some other time—it’s wonderful to be able to play off of someone like that.” Asked whether she realizes that she would be any designer’s dream to work with, Swinton let loose a small bombshell: “Maybe it’s because I know nothing about fashion!”
Thanks to the tastemaking powers of Nicolas Ghesquière and Gaia Repossi, five-fingered rings and tough ear cuffs have been all the rage for the past year or so. But judging from the recent Resort collections, the new jewelry must-have is a chunky chain. We spied statement-making metal necklaces that were equal parts punk and hip-hop bling at Chanel, Bottega Veneta, Givenchy, and Lanvin, among others. Jenni Kayne, for her part, piled on the gold strands for an extra dose of swag (let’s just say that Jay-Z himself would be jealous), while Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, Bouchra Jarrar, and Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent incorporated gleaming links as accents on their clothes. In addition to Rihanna, whose Céline ID choker has been in heavy rotation for some time now, cool girls such as Caroline de Maigret have taken a new liking to heavy-duty chokers. We’re betting they’ll be street-style status symbols at the Spring ’14 shows.
This month at the Fall ’13 Couture shows, a string of designers skipped the strapless cut and instead embraced a crisscross or strip of fabric just above the heart. “The cross-body neckline is a modern look at Couture,” stylist Jessica de Ruiter explains. “It allows for a flash of skin despite the dress being quiet, covered with long sleeves, or classic in its silhouette.”
At Atelier Versace, Donatella deftly proved her hand at Couture (having returned to show again in Paris only a year and a half ago) with a striking body-con number featuring open panels, which, to de Ruiter’s point, revealed nothing and everything all at once. Subtle seduction appeared at Bouchra Jarrar, too, where the designer paired the cross-my-heart neckline with menswear separates, tempering its overt sex appeal with trousers. And Alexandre Vauthier brought a new draped take to the trend, artfully crossing the fabric over the chest while still leaving plenty of skin on display. The design even made its way across the Atlantic, landing on Catherine Zeta-Jones at New York’s Red 2 premiere. She donned a revelatory Michael Kors (from Fall ’13, no less) that kept the trend on track despite New York’s near-triple-digit weather.