16 posts tagged "Brian Wolk"
Even though Labor Day traditionally marks the end of of summer fun, Ruffian‘s Brian Wolk and Claude Morais aren’t ready to jet home quite yet. For their Spring ’14 show on Saturday, the designers are set to introduce a collection rooted in Côte d’Azur debauchery, veiled in a layer of Italian heritage thanks to a collaboration with Giulia Campeol’s Venice-based footwear label, Allagiulia.
“Giulia’s family made Friulana slippers, which are the shoes that gondoliers wear,” Wolk told Style.com. “The soles are traditionally made out of discarded bike tires so that they don’t slip on the boats. She brought them to the next level, using more fabrics and textiles.” Added Morais, “And we’ve adapted that signature.”
The result—a leather-fringed, polka-dotted, tire-rubber-sole flat (which debuts exclusively above) —smartly conveys the evolution from the canal to the catwalk. “Giulia came to our studio, and we looked at all of our reference images for the lineup—fifties Saint-Tropez,” said Wolk, adding that the author Françoise Sagan, a literary enfant terrible of sorts, also served as a Spring muse.
It’s Sagan’s breathlessly paced life that informs the rest of the collection, which is dubbed Ingenue. “She was very much a Ruffian. She drove race cars, she was always in trouble, and she actually had to go to rehab in the south of France,” said Wolk. “At Ruffian there’s always a good girl who has gone a little bit bad.”
Despite last night’s spontaneous blizzard, designers and fashion fixtures headed to Finale NYC to fête the launch of eBay and the CFDA’s 2013 You Can’t Fake Fashion tote collection. Marking the pair’s third collaborative effort to fight counterfeits and support authentic design, the new range features 90 one-of-a-kind canvas tote bags that have been customized by designers like Prabal Gurung (above, center), Pamela Love, Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg (above, right), and Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy (above, left). The designer-embellished bags are available for purchase via eBay auction through March 25 for a starting price of $100. The initiative is also offering a new standard tote for a “buy it now” price of $50. Proceeds will go toward combating fakes.
“As artists, we work so hard to create something, and then it gets knocked off,” said Rebecca Minkoff. “This is a great platform to ensure authenticity.” Carly Cushnie of Cushnie et Ochs concurs, and suggested that there’s security in knowing her and her design partner Michelle Ochs’ work is protected. “The CFDA has a voice that brings everyone together to preserve design integrity,” she said.
In addition to the likes of CFDA CEO Steven Kolb, Jeffrey Costello, Robert Tagliapietra, and Rebecca Taylor, Ruffian’s Brian Wolk and Claude Morais turned up to rally for the cause. And, according to Morais, they have a particularly special relationship with eBay. “We’re always using the site as a reference point. Right now it’s all about the 1920s and the hunt for the perfect embroidered dress.” We’re sensing a Jazz Age vibe for the team’s Spring ’14.
Before their runway show at Lincoln Center tomorrow, Ruffian designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais gave Style.com an exclusive first look at what they have in store. Last time around, the duo found inspiration in the English countryside, but this season, they found the magic right here in New York. They have collaborated with New York-based artist John Gordon Gauld (who they later found out happens to be the grandson of legendary hatmaker Lilly Daché) on a Ruffian toile, which will be featured in the collection tomorrow. “We first met him at his opening at the James Salomon Gallery in Chelsea and instantly fell in love with his work,” Wolk tells Style.com. “Claude and I took a bunch of pictures of Williamsburg and he created the artwork for this new take on toile de Jouy.” Here, a preview of the print.
“The jewelry is about modernity, but with a nod to history—there’s something very Ruffian about it,” says Brian Wolk, one half of the Ruffian label with his partner Claude Morais, of their first-ever baubles (made in collaboration with Sequin). One part English Art Deco, another part Memphis Design Group, the 75-piece collection of monogram necklaces (with the designers’ ‘W’ and ‘M’ initials) and colorful bangles will make its debut on the runway at Lincoln Center this weekend. “We like to go to The Victoria and Albert Museum, they have an incredible jewelry collection that fascinates us. But we wanted to add a clash into it, so we looked at Memphis art for the colors and the playful shapes. We thought the juxtaposition of the two would be fun.”
Juxtaposition is something that Wolk and Morais have always toyed with in their clothes, and this season is no different. When their Fall ’12 looks hit the catwalk, watch out for menswear tweaked for the ladies made with English textiles. Style.com has the first look, here, at the new Ruffian bijoux.