22 posts tagged "Calvin Klein Collection"
Italo Zucchelli, the creative director of Calvin Klein Collection’s menswear, was unexpectedly enthusiastic about a subject in fashion—at least in men’s fashion—that most prefer to ignore: pre-collections. “It’s kind of new for men,” Zucchelli said. Not long ago, the situation was much the same for womenswear: Pre-collections were commercial lines, meant to bolster store buys (in practice, they often make up to 70 percent, or more, of many retailers’ annual purchases) and distill the themes of the mainline “editorial” collections presented on the runway into more wearable, salable form. But anyone reading Style.com over the past few years has seen pre-collections boom, often into runway shows of their own. (See our complete coverage if you disbelieve.)
ould the same happen for menswear? Zucchelli, for one, makes such a thing seem possible. (His sales, he reports, are split fifty-fifty between pre-collections and Spring and Fall collections.) “The pre-collections became bigger and bigger,” he said. “Now I’m injecting fashion.” The Pre-Fall 2014 collection, debuting here, makes the point. The airy palette of the Spring ’14 collection, inspired in part by the work of James Turrell, turned darker, but blue remained dominant. Makes sense: Navy is a color no man is afraid to buy. But Zucchelli made good on his promise of more fashion in this traditionally sales-friendly offering. A bonded flannel car coat, easy and approachable, was spliced together with a panel of contrast fabric. “Techy” was Zucchelli’s word for it. That future-leaning, technological bent, which has characterized many of his collections for the label, was evident throughout: In the moire jacquard motif on suits and jackets, the slash details worked into the seams of tailored garments, and, most of all, the printed graphic sweatshirts and tees that the designer said were already attracting significant sales attention. They featured blue-tinted aerial illustrations of one of the world’s techiest cities: Tokyo.
Aubrey Drake Graham may have started as a teenage actor on Degrassi: The Next Generation, but now, he’s selling out shows at Brooklyn’s Barclay’s Center—at least, he did last night with the New York segment of his “Would You Like a Tour?” tour. That’s no small feat—and Drake’s other coup was getting Calvin Klein Collection to provide his onstage wardrobe.
The musician, who turned 27 a few days ago, used yesterday’s gig to celebrate his birthday with a crowd that included several Brooklyn Nets, Victor Cruz, and guest performers Busta Rhymes and A$AP Rocky (along with GF Chanel Iman). Also celebrating was Calvin Klein men’s creative director Italo Zucchelli, who met Drake for the first time at the house’s fashion week party in September. Although he’s worked with countless celebrities, this is Zucchelli’s first time designing a tour wardrobe. “I’m a music obsessive,” he said. “Working on this, I felt very in my element.” Drake wore two of the custom looks last night: a light blue denim hooded shirt, tank top, and multi-pocket cargo pant, and later, a reflective tank top and track pant as he serenaded the crowd on a round, elevated catwalk. Unlike some other rappers, Drake completed his show without a single wardrobe malfunction.
With each new season comes a whole crop of new models to get acquainted with, and what struck us about many of Spring ’14′s rising stars was their interesting names—Drake Burnette (below, left), Binx Walton, Malaika Firth (above, top left), Holly Rose Emery (below, right), and Zlata Mangafic in particular. Their cool monikers only added to their allure during the New York and London shows. Firth is perhaps the most promising fresh face to emerge these past two weeks. We knew the 19-year-old stunner from Kenya (by way of London) would be major when she landed the Prada Fall ’13 campaign (she’s the first black model to do so since Naomi Campbell in 1994, which gave rise to a slew of comparisons to the supe) and walked in the label’s menswear Resort presentation back in June. Firth started her season at Jason Wu, and continued to walk only top-tier shows during NYFW, including Altuzarra, Calvin Klein Collection, Marc Jacobs, and Proenza Schouler. She kept up the pace across the pond, turning up at Burberry, Christopher Kane, J.W. Anderson, Jonathan Saunders, and Mary Katrantzou.
Other girls who got explosive starts from that Prada menswear runway over the summer include Anna Ewers (above, top right) and Emery. Ewers caught Alexander Wang’s eye (as well as the attention of casting director Anita Bitton) back in February, when she was included in the lineup for his debut Balenciaga collection. Next, the strong German beauty starred in the Resort lookbooks for both Alexander Wang and Balenciaga, so we were hardly surprised to see the designer’s new muse open his Spring ’14 show—the easy, cool hair and makeup were even reportedly inspired by Ewers’ natural look. She went on to do Altuzarra, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, and Marc Jacobs. Meanwhile, Emery’s career took off during the Fall couture shows, and her Kewpie Doll pout won her spots on Spring catwalks including Jason Wu, Theyskens’ Theory, Marc Jacobs, Christopher Kane, and Giles. Another newcomer who has walked all the right runways so far is Kate Goodling (above, bottom left). The second girl out at Alexander Wang, she also appeared at Calvin Klein, Narciso Rodrgieuz, Altuzarra, and Donna Karan. Her all-American appeal will take her far. Ophelie Guillermand (above, bottom right), likewise, made an impact at both Alexander Wang and Calvin Klein. Continue Reading “New Model News From New York and London” »
In recent years, fashion designers, casting directors, and model agencies alike have been scrutinized for using underage models. But while the phenomenon is still troublingly widespread, so is a happier trend from the opposite end of the spectrum: the ongoing prominence of the comparatively mature model—which, in the fishbowl of fashion, means north of (gasp!) 29. But beauty, of course, doesn’t end with your twenties. Who can forget the buzz that Naomi Campbell—looking as good as ever at 43—stirred up when she opened and closed Atelier Versace back in July? Throughout the Couture shows were appearances by Yasmin Warsame and Alek Wek at Christian Dior, as well as 30-year-old Chinese super Du Juan closing at Giambattista Valli.
Veteran models fared well at the Fall ’13 shows, too. Carolyn Murphy turned up at Calvin Klein Collection, and Alexander Wang put Malgosia Béla in the lineups for both his namesake collection and his Balenciaga debut. Meanwhile, Tom Ford brought back Liya Kebede and Julia Stegner for his first major runway spectacle, and Miuccia Prada mixed cult favorites—including Kirsten Owen, Liisa Winkler, and Esther de Jong—in with the newcomers at her Fall show. Going into the Spring ’14 season, here’s hoping we’ll see more of these familiar faces return to the runways. At the top of our list is Christy Turlington, who currently stars in Fall ad campaigns for Prada, Calvin Klein, and Jason Wu. Christy, the catwalk is calling you back.