80 posts tagged "Calvin Klein"
Japan, horseback riding, and fear of the dentist were among the inspirations at FIT’s annual Future of Fashion show last night, where students of the graduating class of 2013 showed off their creations. Supported by a gift from Calvin Klein (an FIT alum, of course), the show was divided into several categories, including special occasion, sportswear, intimate apparel, knitwear, and children’s wear—which, thanks to a rambunctious mini model who moseyed down the runway with his tongue stuck out, was a particular crowd pleaser. “I was really blown away,” said Lisa Perry, who mentored designers in the sportswear category. She bestowed the Lisa Perry sportswear award upon Jae Lee (above, left). The winning designer sent out an oversize charcoal wool skirt suit garnished with electric orange PVC, and topped it off with a clever plastic visor. “He was incredibly creative,” Perry said of the graduate, who was inspired by yearbook images, which he etched into plastic. “And the quality was amazing. I was so proud!”
Other standouts included Jong Suk Park (above, right), whose chunky hooded knit look won second place in Cotton Inc.’s Best Use of Cotton contest, as well as Carly Rosenbrook’s structured white denim and PVC look, which took the Gary Graham sportswear prize, and Miguel Pena’s waxed cotton and leather separates, which received the Rag & Bone sportswear award. Visit FIT’s website to learn more about the many talents in the graduating class of 2013.
It’s been a big week for the London Collections: Men, with Rag & Bone and Pringle of Scotland announcing that they would join the likes of Tom Ford, Alexander McQueen, and Burberry in presenting during the city’s third menswear showcase this June. “I think London is pretty much the home of menswear. Look at Savile Row and the great heritage we have. We invented the suit!” said Dylan Jones—the editor in chief of British GQ and the chair of London’s men’s collections—at an event at the British Residence in New York last night. The occasion, which drew the likes of BFC chief executive Caroline Rush, Dominic Jones, Nasir Mazhar, Sibling’s Cozette McCreery, Lou Dalton, and more, marked the announcement of London’s Spring 2014 menswear schedule. The lineup includes the above-mentioned international brands, as well as talents like Christopher Kane, Richard Nicoll, and James Long. Long, fresh out of the London Showrooms, which visited New York this week, offered, “When I started menswear in London, we had to struggle to have a voice. It was very behind womenswear. Now, all these supportive people have made [London menswear] happen, and it’s so funny being in New York and having menswear be the focus.” Caroline Rush concurred. “The womenswear designers have great recognition, but to put that spotlight on these incredible menswear brands is really important,” she said.
One might wonder why the British Fashion Council chose to reveal the London menswear roster in Manhattan rather than on its home turf. “We’re here tonight…because so many New York designers have supported us since we launched 18 months ago,” said Jones in his speech, noting that Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, and more had all lent a hand. He added that Tommy Hilfiger, David Furnish, Tracey Emin, and Details magazine will all be throwing “amazing” parties during the upcoming shows, which will run from June 16 to 18. “When [everyone] goes over to Milan, they’re going to have one hell of a hangover,” he laughed. The complete Spring 2014 London Collections: Men schedule is available at www.londoncollections.co.uk.
You can smell a Calvin theme by the set dressing. Last season’s ode to angularity and geometric form was staged under the eaves of a house stripped to its beams. But today’s Fall presentation of Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, and Calvin Klein Underwear, all under the able auspices of Kevin Carrigan, was white sand and what looked like wheat-y beach grass. “It could be Marfa, Texas; it could be Calvin in the Hamptons,” Carrigan said.
Marfa, Texas, was famously the seat of power of the great minimalist Donald Judd, whose influence the designer said he had been channeling. But the driving spirit was, as always, fashion’s master minimalist: Calvin himself. Minimalism can read chilly, but Carrigan was working to bring out its softness and warmth. “A sensual shift,” he opined. You could see that in the cool, creamy palette and the brushed fabrics. “I’ve never used these brushed alabaster flannels,” Carrigan said, gesturing at a simple sheath dress, “and, to me, that’s quintessential Carolyn Bessette”—quintessential Calvin girl, onetime Calvin employee, and nineties minimalist par excellence.
The range had a quiet glamour that last season’s outing missed, and key pieces—like Antonina Vasylchenko’s fur-trimmed parka, worn with a loose-woven cabled sweater—looked appealingly rich. Carrigan aimed to leaven minimalism with movement, so crystal-pleated shirts swished and longer pant lengths slouched and trailed. The longer skirts, on the other hand, hitting just below the knee, were a little too schoolmarm strict. A black leather pleated skirt and stud-fastening shirt looked like more fun.
You can’t miss a Panos Yiapanis photograph. Since beginning his career in the late nineties—working alongside photographer Corinne Day—the 38-year-old stylist has honed a dark, gritty, raw-to-the-bone aesthetic that is distinctly his own. His particular vision has led to a longstanding creative relationship with Rick Owens, as well as countless spreads in such magazines as i-D, W, and Vogue Italia shot by the likes of Steven Meisel, Inez & Vinoodh, and Mert & Marcus. To add to his accomplishments, last week, Katie Grand tapped him to become Love‘s fashion director-at-large. Here, Yiapanis talks to Style.com about the new gig, the state of fashion, and staying true to his look.
Why did now feel like the right time to join a magazine?
I feel like I’ve come full circle in terms of what I do. I’ve kind of been nomadic, which is putting it nicely. I’ve been a gypsy, going from one magazine to another. I feel like I’m back to where I was aesthetically when I first started out in terms of what I want to say, so having this position now gives me a new way of conveying that message. When I first started out, a lot of what I did was very personal and I had evolved away from doing that. People would say, “Well, maybe that’s a little too creative for us,” so I started to clean up what I did, which didn ‘t work for me. I’m happier doing what I enjoy, so it felt right to go back to my messier aesthetic.
How do you balance art and commerciality?
I don’t think you have to. I always argue that the best results are when both of them are at their height. I always yap about the nineties, when brands were willing to put out campaigns that captured the spirit of the brand as opposed to the product. That seems to have gotten lost somewhere along the way. So I don’t think creativity and commercialism are mutually exclusive. I honestly think they’re best when they both collide. But that doesn’t seem to be a thought that’s shared widely right now.
Your aesthetic is usually described as dark and moody. Do you feel that’s accurate?
It’s funny because when the Love announcement was made, I saw this tweet that said, “Love just got darker.” And I don’t know if that’s necessarily true; maybe I just got a bit brighter. There is a darkness to what I do, but it’s never macabre or unpleasant and I always try to adapt to the situation. The clients I’ve worked with vary from pure brands like Calvin to flashy brands like Cavalli. And I enjoy that diversity. I enjoy sitting in a room full of embroidery and fur and gold trimmings one day, and then going into a different setting the following day where it’s all about stripping things away. Love is a very positive publication. So on the one hand, it kind of works to go against that and give it another voice, but at the same time, I’m not going in there to paint the walls black. Continue Reading “Back to the Dark Side: Panos Yiapanis on Love and His Creative Evolution” »
Narrowing down the season’s top newcomers to just ten girls is never an easy task. After following their progress through New York, London, Milan, and Paris, we admittedly feel a bit like stage moms cheering on all the rookies. But, considering Fall ’13′s impressive crop of fresh faces, picking our favorites this season was even more gut-wrenching than usual.
At the end of the day, however, decisions have to be made. But the runners-up deserve a round of applause, too. At the top of our list of girls who almost made the cut is Elisabeth Erm (WILHELMINA), who shot to the front of the pack after walking Calvin Klein in New York, and then went on to kill it in Europe. She ended particularly strong in Paris, turning up at Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, and Miu Miu, among others. Another girl who boasted a very impressive show list was Nicole Pollard (ELITE), a favorite of Raf Simons, who closed the month with twenty-seven top-tier turns, including Dior, Alexander Wang, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, and Givenchy.
Some girls only walked a few shows, but that doesn’t mean they went unnoticed. Take Binx Walton (NEXT), for instance. The Tennessee native racked up exclusives at Marc Jacobs and Versace, and also appeared at Miu Miu in Paris, and Giles and Sister by Sibling in London (clearly, Katie Grand, who styles both collections, is a fan). Breathtaking brunettes Elise Smidt (WOMEN) and Lauren English (IMG) also went the selective but premium route. Smidt caught the eye of casting directors in Milan, at Prada and Jil Sander, then went on to hit the runway at Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Chloé, and Dior in Paris. English emerged as a favorite of Alexander Wang (who definitely has a sixth sense for models) in New York, then turned up again on his Balenciaga catwalk in Paris. She rounded out the season with Céline, Acne Studios, Loewe, and Maison Martin Margiela. Keep an eye out for these ladies during the next few months—we have a feeling you’ll be seeing more of them.