102 posts tagged "Calvin Klein"
The face of New York fashion week continues to change, with two big names announcing moves downtown this morning. According to WWD, both Diane von Furstenberg and Michael Kors—who announced last month that they’d be skipping Lincoln Center—will be decamping to Tribeca’s Spring Studios come February. The Varick Street venue, which opened quietly this past September, debuted with Francisco Costa’s tenth anniversary show for Calvin Klein. Will these endorsements be enough to woo other labels away from the action uptown? Only time will tell.
When I traveled to Los Angeles with Calvin Klein Collection’s Italo Zucchelli to interview David Lynch for Style.com’s piece on their shared passion for Transcendental Meditation, the first thing Zucchelli mentioned was Lynch’s past work for the label. Circa Twin Peaks, Lynch shot four ads for Obsession and Obsession for Men, Calvin Klein’s fragrances, each based on a bit of poetry or prose. I confess that my own viewing habits in the late eighties ran more to Sesame Street than Mulholland Drive, so I couldn’t call them to mind. Luckily they’re all readily available on that inexhaustible resource, YouTube. As you read Lynch and Zucchelli’s thoughts on meditation, creativity, and—I kid you not—urinal cleaning, pause to check out the vintage spots. And keep an eye out for Lara Flynn Boyle of Twin Peaks in the short inspired by Flaubert’s Madame Bovary.
Need proof that fashion has become increasingly seasonless? Look no further than the Spring runways. Despite the spring season, there was no shortage of statement-making furs. Miuccia Prada sent out vibrant intarsia furs printed with trompe l’oeil bras and female visages, while Fendi’s Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi whipped up shaved-mink toppers that weigh mere grams, as well as fuzzy ear cuffs, handbags, and playful “buggies” charms. Elsewhere, pelts were incorporated into accessories like Michael Kors’ twisted cashmere shrugs backed in sable, and Burberry Prorsum’s shaggy clutches. Showing fur alongside summery dresses makes sense, given these collections hit stores in February, but then you have a designer like Francisco Costa, who threw that reasoning out the window by whipping up a pale lilac shearling for his latest Calvin Klein Collection Pre-Fall outing. Even if it delivers in May, that coat was covetable enough to buy now and wear later.
The basketball courts at Houston and Sixth Avenue made a big impression on Kevin Carrigan as a young Englishman in New York. He re-created them at the Calvin Klein presentation this morning, from the wire fencing of the set all the way up to his Spring clothes, which embrace and celebrate the all-American athleticism of the company’s heritage. “Last season was about sensual, soft minimalism,” he explained. “This one is more about fast-forward minimalism.” A sheer cobalt-blue tank dress, for starters, was layered over boy briefs and a bandeau bra, and perforated PVC was whipped up into a zip-front sleeveless dress, a sweatshirt, and kicky to-the-knee skirts. Even the suiting took on a sporty edge, with a sleeveless tailored jacket layered over a mesh tee and trousers. You wouldn’t mistake any of it for exercise gear, but the women’s collection had a nice energy, emphasized by the graphic black-and-white color palette and the hits of sky blue.
Those hits kept hitting in the men’s collections. From the underwear, which came in two-tone jewel colors and cut in a new Brazilian square cut, to sky-blue cotton suiting, Carrigan was delivering what he called “high-octane color.” It was balanced by the usual Calvin palette of slate and ice grays. The sport-inspired mesh that suffused the women’s collection was here, too, in micro-mesh textures layered on one another: A cotton mesh dress shirt with a silk mesh tie. “Wearing the mini-mesh textures together is a new direction, I feel,” he said. “I’m taking the sport and introducing the formality—taking the formal out of formal.” It gave even the more traditional silhouettes (a straight pant rather than a tapered one, a slight break rather than the ubiquitous crop) a slight charge. With the menswear more than the womenswear, a resurgent sense of the old mixed with the new. The inspirations were, on one hand, sportswear from the thirties, and on the other, from modern-day basketball. Leather lace-ups with athletic cotton ankle socks underscored the point.
There’s no questioning Asia’s importance in the fashion market, and Western brands have more than taken note. This month in Hong Kong alone, Tory Burch, Kenzo, Moncler, and Calvin Klein all hosted events within days of each other. And at Singapore’s FIDé fashion week (FIDé is an organization that aims to promote regional and international designers in Singapore), European brands like Pierre Balmain and American ones like Burkman Bros and Ari Dein similarly made the trek eastward to show their collections. “It was the first time both brands participated in a full-length fashion show,” Steven Kolb, the CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, said of the latter two. “Fashion is no longer defined by borders, and the more we can nurture global relations, the greater the success for our designers.”
But the region is also increasingly interested in holding its own in global fashion, and the eleven-day event in Singapore, which typically features several days of presentations by French haute couturiers and Asian couturiers, included the latest step in that direction: the founding of the Asian Couture Federation (ACF). Now, the Asian couturiers (dubbed by the ACF as “Asian Couturier Extraordinaires”) will have a support system of their own. Its inception was an act that won FIDé executive chairman and ACF founder Frank Cintamani (below, left) France’s esteemed Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres honor. Even Shinzo Abe, the Prime Minister of Japan, offered Cintamani a pat on the back, calling the Federation’s establishment “a significant event for all of Asia,” at a time “when we consider that fashion until recently was generally seen as the domain of Europe and the United States.” Continue Reading “In Singapore, Asia’s Couturiers Get A Boost” »