100 posts tagged "Calvin Klein"
Need proof that fashion has become increasingly seasonless? Look no further than the Spring runways. Despite the spring season, there was no shortage of statement-making furs. Miuccia Prada sent out vibrant intarsia furs printed with trompe l’oeil bras and female visages, while Fendi’s Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi whipped up shaved-mink toppers that weigh mere grams, as well as fuzzy ear cuffs, handbags, and playful “buggies” charms. Elsewhere, pelts were incorporated into accessories like Michael Kors’ twisted cashmere shrugs backed in sable, and Burberry Prorsum’s shaggy clutches. Showing fur alongside summery dresses makes sense, given these collections hit stores in February, but then you have a designer like Francisco Costa, who threw that reasoning out the window by whipping up a pale lilac shearling for his latest Calvin Klein Collection Pre-Fall outing. Even if it delivers in May, that coat was covetable enough to buy now and wear later.
The basketball courts at Houston and Sixth Avenue made a big impression on Kevin Carrigan as a young Englishman in New York. He re-created them at the Calvin Klein presentation this morning, from the wire fencing of the set all the way up to his Spring clothes, which embrace and celebrate the all-American athleticism of the company’s heritage. “Last season was about sensual, soft minimalism,” he explained. “This one is more about fast-forward minimalism.” A sheer cobalt-blue tank dress, for starters, was layered over boy briefs and a bandeau bra, and perforated PVC was whipped up into a zip-front sleeveless dress, a sweatshirt, and kicky to-the-knee skirts. Even the suiting took on a sporty edge, with a sleeveless tailored jacket layered over a mesh tee and trousers. You wouldn’t mistake any of it for exercise gear, but the women’s collection had a nice energy, emphasized by the graphic black-and-white color palette and the hits of sky blue.
Those hits kept hitting in the men’s collections. From the underwear, which came in two-tone jewel colors and cut in a new Brazilian square cut, to sky-blue cotton suiting, Carrigan was delivering what he called “high-octane color.” It was balanced by the usual Calvin palette of slate and ice grays. The sport-inspired mesh that suffused the women’s collection was here, too, in micro-mesh textures layered on one another: A cotton mesh dress shirt with a silk mesh tie. “Wearing the mini-mesh textures together is a new direction, I feel,” he said. “I’m taking the sport and introducing the formality—taking the formal out of formal.” It gave even the more traditional silhouettes (a straight pant rather than a tapered one, a slight break rather than the ubiquitous crop) a slight charge. With the menswear more than the womenswear, a resurgent sense of the old mixed with the new. The inspirations were, on one hand, sportswear from the thirties, and on the other, from modern-day basketball. Leather lace-ups with athletic cotton ankle socks underscored the point.
There’s no questioning Asia’s importance in the fashion market, and Western brands have more than taken note. This month in Hong Kong alone, Tory Burch, Kenzo, Moncler, and Calvin Klein all hosted events within days of each other. And at Singapore’s FIDé fashion week (FIDé is an organization that aims to promote regional and international designers in Singapore), European brands like Pierre Balmain and American ones like Burkman Bros and Ari Dein similarly made the trek eastward to show their collections. “It was the first time both brands participated in a full-length fashion show,” Steven Kolb, the CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, said of the latter two. “Fashion is no longer defined by borders, and the more we can nurture global relations, the greater the success for our designers.”
But the region is also increasingly interested in holding its own in global fashion, and the eleven-day event in Singapore, which typically features several days of presentations by French haute couturiers and Asian couturiers, included the latest step in that direction: the founding of the Asian Couture Federation (ACF). Now, the Asian couturiers (dubbed by the ACF as “Asian Couturier Extraordinaires”) will have a support system of their own. Its inception was an act that won FIDé executive chairman and ACF founder Frank Cintamani (below, left) France’s esteemed Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres honor. Even Shinzo Abe, the Prime Minister of Japan, offered Cintamani a pat on the back, calling the Federation’s establishment “a significant event for all of Asia,” at a time “when we consider that fashion until recently was generally seen as the domain of Europe and the United States.” Continue Reading “In Singapore, Asia’s Couturiers Get A Boost” »
It was a whirlwind month for this season’s freshman class of models, who ended things on a high note in Paris by making their final first impressions at the shows that really count. We were ecstatic to see many of the fresh faces we’ve had our eye on since early September go on to solidify their spots on our top newcomer list. After making the grade in New York, London, and Milan, Malaika Firth demonstrated the poise of a veteran in the City of Light, where she bookended Valentino and walked sixteen other runways including Anthony Vaccarello, Céline, Giambattista Valli, Miu Miu, and Stella McCartney. Altogether, Firth totaled an impressive fifty-five shows for Spring ’14, and we can’t wait to see her in upcoming ad campaigns and editorial spreads. Several of the other front-runners who’ve been in the spotlight from the start picked up the pace for the final segment. Alexander Wang opener Anna Ewers finished with thirty-seven catwalk appearances and did turns at Balenciaga, Céline, Chanel, and Isabel Marant in Paris, among others. Our personal favorite, Binx Walton (bottom right), took the city by storm—Acne Studios, Alexander McQueen, Céline, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Saint Laurent were just a few of her credits.
Moving along, we simply cannot get enough of Kate Goodling (top left). She’s the total package, with a combination of all-American good looks, editorial appeal, and a killer runway body. Well managed by Ford NY across the Atlantic, Goodling also racked up thirty-seven shows, hitting top-tier catwalks in Paris like Balenciaga, Chanel, Chloé, Dior, Givenchy, Lanvin, and Nina Ricci. We were also dazzled by Lexi Boling, another Ford NY girl, who turned up at Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Céline, and Chloé. French belle Elodia Prieto (top right), who opened and closed Calvin Klein in New York, took advantage of her hometown advantage and finished up at Alexander McQueen, Balmain, Céline, Dior, Givenchy, Haider Ackermann, and Nina Ricci. Finally, check out Svetlana Zakharova’s (bottom left) mesmerizing gaze and bone structure. She was an Alexander Wang exclusive in New York, and blew us away in Paris at Chlo#233;, Balmain, Giambattista Valli, and Isabel Marant. We could go on and on raving about this season’s successful rookies—and there were plenty other notables, including Irina Liss, Ine Neefs, Ophelie Guillermand, Devon Windsor, and Sabrina Loffreda, who made the Spring ’14 runways all the more vibrant.
If the Fall ’13 campaigns and Spring ’14 runways have left you craving more surprise appearances from nineties supers (Christy Turlington starred in Fall ads for Calvin Klein Underwear, Jason Wu, and Prada; Naomi Campbell strutted her stuff down DVF’s Spring runway; Kate Moss was printed across Giles Deacon’s Spring dresses, etc.), look no further than Katie Grand’s latest Hogan short for your next fix. To showcase her Spring ’14 collaboration with the label (the third installment of the ongoing series), Grand asked Dan Jackson to direct a film featuring Linda Evangelista and Stephanie Seymour, as well as Joan Smalls, Sam Rollinson, Edie Campbell, Georgia May Jagger, Liu Wen, and more, dancing about in the new collection. As for the Spring range, it boasts soft leather jackets and accessories kissed with Grand’s signature Pop aesthetic. The lineup, which Grand describes as “slick, sexy, straight-to-the-point practicality,” includes stark white creepers, polka-dot pouches, slim stilettos, and duffel bags and iPhone cases embellished with the collaboration’s heart motif—a nod to Grand’s Love magazine. See it all in the flick’s exclusive debut, above.