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August 31 2014

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71 posts tagged "Carine Roitfeld"

Fashion’s Latest Emissary From The Fountain of Youth

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Dairy InstertStyle.com contributing editor and party reporter Darrell Hartman circles the city and, occasionally, the globe in the line of duty. In a regular column, he reports on the topics—whatever they may be at whatever given moment—that are stirring the social set.

Carlos Souza and Dorian Grinspan“Yes, the lad was premature,” goes a line from The Picture of Dorian Gray. “He was gathering his harvest while it was yet spring.”

I doubt I’m the first person who has, upon meeting Dorian Grinspan, thought of Oscar Wilde’s fable about precious youth. This Dorian is real. The 20-year-old founder and editor Out of Order magazine, he’s been sowing his seeds early—and some of the fashion world’s biggest influencers are taking notice.

Grinspan was born in Paris and came to the U.S. to study at Yale. But while an earlier generation might’ve chosen to wait for a diploma before launching into the world, Grinspan didn’t see the point. “I didn’t come [to the U.S.] wanting to do a magazine. I arrived at Yale and I was really, really bored,” he told Women’s Wear Daily. [Full disclosure: this reporter spent four years at Yale, and did not find it boring.] Grinspan will start his senior year in the Fall, majoring in American Studies, but he recently took an apartment in New York, and says that thanks to some Franco-esque schedule jiggering will be spending just three days a week in New Haven.

Youth these days! Grinspan is already a darling of the industry. WWD is only one of several publications to anoint him an up-and-comer, and his biannual is already carried by the likes of Opening Ceremony and Colette, and the second issue, which Grinspan launched last week, boasts the sort of top-shelf contributors of which many start-up outlets dream. Among the photo credits and profile subjects are Larry Clark, Ryan McGinley, and Olivier Theyskens. These are gets worth bragging about, even if Grinspan is modest, or at least PR-savvy, enough not to. “It’s actually funny to see how accessible these people are and how much they want to help,” he told me at last week’s launch party at Fivestory, an uptown boutique. (His fashion-model looks—literally, as in repped by DNA—aren’t the reason, but surely they can’t hurt.) Gus Van Sant, he added, had been “really interested, and we almost shot something,” but the scheduling hadn’t worked out.

Grinspan has plenty more influential supporters, including fellow editors. “Stephen Gan has been amazing to me,” he said. And after meeting Stefano Tonchi at a party in Cannes last year, Grinspan appeared in W this spring. Starting in the fall, he said, he’ll be writing for the magazine’s website. Quick work. For a moment, Grinspan did pay some dues—as an intern for Carine Roitfeld. Among the people met while working there was photographer Michael Avedon, who shot a story for the new issue. (Avedon is just a year older than Grinspan, and the great-grandson of Richard.)

Grinspan holds himself well—and tends to do so in the right company. Cynthia Rowley, who hosted an after-party of sorts for the magazine at her boutique-cum-sweet-shop, Curious, couldn’t exactly remember how she’d first met him. She was pretty sure his boyfriend had interned at her husband’s gallery. In any case, Rowley said, she’d gotten to know him through “the Brant kids.”

How has Grinspan done it, in an industry with fewer and fewer footholds for young talent? “I don’t think there’s a secret. I feel like everything is so circumstantial,” he explained. When pressed, he added, “Both my mom and my dad have a lot of connections in fashion, I guess.” His mother, a graphic designer, got him interested in clothes and style early on. His father, a lawyer, worked “for a long time” with BCBG. And there’s his godmother, Numéro editor–in-chief Babette Djian. “She’s been great,” Grinspan admits. “We go to fashion shows together if we both have an invite. But I would never call her up and say, ‘Please take me to Jean Paul Gaultier!’ That’s not what I want our relationship to be.”

If things keep going the way they’re going, the occasional missing invite won’t be an issue. And why shouldn’t they? Grinspan has a way about him, evident in the manner in which he politely escorted Clark up the stairs at Rowley’s party and posed with him for photos. Clark, like Rowley, couldn’t recall how he and Grinspan had first started talking, but he did remember meeting Grinspan face to face. “He’s very enthusiastic, but not overbearing at all—just a nice young man,” he said. And one more likely to make a splash than all the others.

All That Glitters In Cannes Is Carine Roitfeld’s Gold Fashion Show

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Karolina Kurkova wears Roberto Cavalli at the Ultimate Gold Fashion Show in CannesWhen a good cause (amfAR) and a major industry figure (Carine Roitfeld) come together, it’s a given that the fashion world will line up to lend a hand. And so it was at “The Ultimate Gold Collection” fashion show that Roitfeld staged at the nonprofit’s Cinema Against AIDS Gala at the Cannes Film Festival last night. The show included golden looks from Tom Ford and Thom Browne, Versace and Valentino, Marc Jacobs and Moncler, Dior, Comme des Garçons, Prada, Ralph Lauren, and Rick Owens—a group that becomes even more impressive given that they represent less than one third of the show’s participants. Add in the twenty-two additional jewelry and accessory brands, the glossy Gianvito Rossi heels…

Suffice it to say, with LoveGold.com as one of the evening’s three title sponsors, the theme was pretty much preordained. Having soft-launched around award season earlier this year, LoveGold is being positioned as the creative, community online platform for the World Gold Council. LoveGold helped support the accessory creations, in addition to hosting the Livestream on its homepage.

“For certain designers, the cost of gold is a barrier to entry,” said Sally Morrison, LoveGold’s director of jewelry in the U.S. “We were interested in creating a sort of incubator program where we offered gold loans for jewelers we were interested in to allow them to work in the medium and de-risk it for them. That coalesced very nicely with designers [Carine] wanted to put in the show.”
A gold bangle by Aurora Lopez Mejia is put on backstage
Jeweler Ana Khouri has worked with gold since launching her namesake jewelry line; for her, it’s just an extension of her sculpture background. Khouri represents the new generation of precious-metal designers, one whose mandate is as much about responsible gold sourcing as unconventional multi-finger rings. “I think gold is a universal language; it really connects people. And how amazing it is to get all this talent together with gold as the link,” said Khouri, before taking her architectural cuffs to be paired with a J.W. Anderson ruffled look. Continue Reading “All That Glitters In Cannes Is Carine Roitfeld’s Gold Fashion Show” »

Exclusive: At Givenchy, Flower Power, Military Might, And Even A Cameo From Bambi

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Givenchy Pre-spring 2014 MenswearGivenchy’s Mert & Marcus-lensed Fall campaign broke today, starring two generations of Roitfelds, Amanda Seyfried, and models Dalianah Arekion and Quim Gutiérrez, but time and tide wait for no label. Hot on the heels of the campaign, Riccardo Tisci unveils its Pre-Spring men’s collection exclusively on Style.com. Anyone who’s had an eye on the Fall womenswear will recognize it as a cousin. Florals, flames, and camouflage motifs abound, and those who eyed the bricolage Bambi tees that look likely to be the latest runaway hit will be glad to find them here in men’s versions, too. Even Luigi Murenu’s painted hairdos from the women’s show get translated for the guys. (The sharp tailoring and sporty Bermuda short/leggings combination is classic Givenchy men’s.)

The collection, Tisci says, takes inspiration from Latin culture, and has the potentially sensitive name of Favelas 74. (1974 is Tisci’s birth year.) “Men in favelas are more natural and more confident about their sexuality,” he explains. “They are not scared to mix and match clothing. They represent sensuality, street, and elegance—what I recognize as elegance. I love the fact that they play with opposite things like flowers (which represent peace and serenity) and camouflage (which represents the army), but all interpreted in a very colorful and positive way.”

Here, the exclusive debut of Givenchy’s Pre-Spring 2014 menswear. 

Limitless Luxury, 24/7

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Jean-Phillipe Delhomme's sketch for The Mark Hotel x Bergdorf Goodman 

Have you ever urgently needed a Lanvin frock at 2 a.m.? What about a pair of Nicholas Kirkwood pumps. No? Even so, we bet guests at The Mark hotel will find a host of reasons for late-night sartorial demands. Starting tomorrow, The Mark—the five-star Upper East Side lodging establishment favored by Carine Roitfeld, Russell Crowe, and Marc Jacobs, who decamped to the hotel during Sandy—will launch a partnership with Bergdorf Goodman. The union will solve any and all designer emergencies, providing guests with twenty-four-hour access to Bergdorf’s personal shoppers and, in some cases, after-hours admission to the store itself. “We make the impossible possible,” the hotel’s chief concierge, Isabelle Hogan, told Style.com. Hard-to-get items will also be readily available—for instance, if, say, a new Céline bag hits shelves in the morning, The Mark will give Todd Okerstrom—Bergdorf’s head of personal shopping—a call, and you can have it sitting on your bed by lunchtime. Delivery is, of course, complimentary.

 

The Mark hotel is located at 25 East 77th Street, New York, NY 10075.

Illustration: Jean-Phillipe Delhomme

Cannes’ Gold Rush

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Prada's look for The Ultimate Gold CollectionThe Cannes Film Festival got underway today. It’s a fabulous time for red carpet watchers; actresses play it faster and looser in the South of France than they seem to anywhere else—see our Cannes Diary for proof. But the fashion will really heat up on May 23, when amfAR is hosting its 20th anniversary Cinema Against AIDS event. The centerpiece of this year’s gala will be Carine Roitfeld’s The Ultimate Gold Collection Fashion Show, which, as its name suggests, will showcase one-of-a-kind dresses and jewels all in gold. Here, an exclusive look at three of the pieces in the show—a Prada hourglass number worthy of Liz Taylor (above), bracelets by Wright & Teague, and an Anndra Neen clutch (below)–as depicted by one of fashion’s favorite illustrators Lula Herself. LoveGold.com will host a livestream of the runway show, and Roitfeld and her CR Fashion Book team are posting daily Instagram updates on #lovegoldcannes. Continue Reading “Cannes’ Gold Rush” »