22 posts tagged "Cathy Horyn"
The rumor mill is churning again today, with a choice bit of unconfirmed gossip: Wags are wondering if London designer Marios Schwab isn’t lending a hand to the famously anonymous Maison Martin Margiela. Margiela himself exited the company in 2009, and ever since there have been rumors and reports of other designers—most recently former Céline hand Ivana Omazic—guiding the design team. The Margiela team’s only comment was that it does not communicate on who its designers are, and, in the words of WWD, “characterizing its studio as a creative collective with members of long standing that it feeds regularly with new contributors.”
While the impetus to unmask single design geniuses is an understandable one, it may be a model that’s falling out of date. It begs the question: Should we always have one designer to point to, or is a more team-spirited approach the better way? Certainly Margiela has been on an upswing these last few seasons.
The Maison is not alone in adopting, happily, a revolving door mentality. When Christopher Kane left Versus, Donatella Versace opted not to hire a single designer in his place, but to invite a series of guests to try their hands. (First up, J.W. Anderson; second, M.I.A.) And in a recent editorial on the fate of Jil Sander after the departure (again) of Jil Sander, Cathy Horyn wondered aloud if the best practice wouldn’t be to build a strong design team. It’s not hard to imagine that being refreshed with new talent as talent arrives.
Something to think about, as several large houses—from Louis Vuitton to Sander—go, for the moment, without single stewards.
Between Ingrid Sischy’s interview in Vanity Fair‘s July issue, Jonathan Newhouse’s profession of support, Cathy Horyn’s call for him to pave his own way back, and last night’s Charlie Rose sit-down, John Galliano has been monopolizing headlines of late. And understandably so—the pair of interviews marked the first time the former Dior designer spoke with journalists on the subject of his racist rant and struggle with addiction that ultimately led to his dismissal from the storied fashion house. If you missed his sober chat with Rose—during which Galliano was almost unrecognizable, having traded his signature matador and pirate ensembles for a blue oxford and blazer—we suggest you give it a watch. Galliano, who sometimes inspires sympathy and sometimes doesn’t, told Rose that it would be his last interview on the topic (he said additional discussions wouldn’t be “wise”). Here, a rundown of the apologetic designer’s most notable comments on such topics as Lee McQueen, the infamous video, his recovery, and his comeback.
On the video and the aftermath:
“No one was more shocked than myself, Charlie… At that point in my career I had become what is known as a blackout drinker. It’s where one can’t transfer short-term memory into long-term memory, so I have no memory of that event.”
“I was emotionally, spiritually, physically, mentally bankrupt. I didn’t know it, but I had a very big breakdown. Nervous breakdown, mental breakdown, emotional breakdown. I didn’t know, but I couldn’t begin to describe how that felt. And I was in denial.”
“[Natalie Portman] was right to say what she said. What I said was disgusting.”
On success and addiction:
“Along with all the successes came more collections. At that moment I was producing 32 collections a year between the house of Galliano and the house of Dior. And each collection would comprise about 1,000 pieces. Would you like me to run through the collections for you? We won’t have time.”
“By then, I was a slave to alcohol, then I would take the Valium to stop the shaking to do the fittings, and the sleeping pills so I could sleep. I was traveling a lot and my life became unmanageable.” Continue Reading “Memorable Moments From Galliano’s Sit-down With Charlie Rose” »
In the waning hours of 2012, New York Times critic Cathy Horyn took to her blog to weigh in on her favorites of the year and the bright spots of the year to come. Among the winners were likely choices such as Dior and Céline, but more unusual was La Horyn’s calling out of a few key Spring ad campaigns. Two of her three picks—Inez and Vinoodh’s for Miu Miu and Steven Meisel’s for Prada—you’ve already seen on Style File. The third is Mario Sorrenti’s for Max Mara: “The approach is reductive and strong,” she wrote. “You suspect he said, ‘Let’s just make something that is beautiful.’ ” In the service of displaying and promoting the beautiful, here it is.
The critic’s role is a tough one, and any good critic is bound to ruffle feathers now and again. Fashion’s critics are no different—just ask Cathy Horyn, who today found herself on the receiving end of an open letter from Oscar de la Renta, taking her to task for calling him a “hot dog” in a review of his Spring ’13 collection. (His retort included the suggestion that she might be a “3-day old stale hamburger.”) But the critic’s role is an important one, and one that Interview chose to pay tribute to in its latest issue. Patrick Demarchelier shot critics including Suzy Menkes, Virginie Mouzat, Horyn, and Style.com’s own Tim Blanks (left) for its roundup of fashion’s most distinguished observers. We’re proud that Tim’s reviews (and runway reels) are a mainstay of our fashion week coverage. Follow along all season here at Style.com.