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July 25 2014

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23 posts tagged "Cathy Horyn"

Celebrating Fashion’s Critics

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The critic’s role is a tough one, and any good critic is bound to ruffle feathers now and again. Fashion’s critics are no different—just ask Cathy Horyn, who today found herself on the receiving end of an open letter from Oscar de la Renta, taking her to task for calling him a “hot dog” in a review of his Spring ’13 collection. (His retort included the suggestion that she might be a “3-day old stale hamburger.”) But the critic’s role is an important one, and one that Interview chose to pay tribute to in its latest issue. Patrick Demarchelier shot critics including Suzy Menkes, Virginie Mouzat, Horyn, and Style.com’s own Tim Blanks (left) for its roundup of fashion’s most distinguished observers. We’re proud that Tim’s reviews (and runway reels) are a mainstay of our fashion week coverage. Follow along all season here at Style.com.

Photo: Patrick Demarchelier / Courtesy of Interview

At Long Last: Dior’s New Designer, Raf Simons

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According to the New York Times, the long-vacant (well, semi-vacant) head job at Dior has been filled: by former Jil Sander creative director Raf Simons. (“Semi-vacant” because since the departure of John Galliano last March, Dior’s collections have been designed by his longtime studio head, Bill Gaytten, who also designs Galliano’s namesake collection; Gaytten’s future at Dior is not known.) Simons had been mentioned many times over the past months as a leading candidate for the job, but until recently was ensconced at Jil Sander. His dramatic departure from the house, announced three days before his triumphant final collection, may have paved the way to the new role. “The first time I heard about the Dior position,” Simons told the Times‘ Cathy Horyn, “I thought, ‘This feels right.’ ” Many will no doubt agree—including, perhaps, Galliano himself. According to Horyn’s sources, the former Dior designer expressed admiration for Simons’ Fall ’12 Jil Sander show.

Photo: Courtesy Photo

Horsewomen On The Horizon, Stella On Shopping, The Latest Dior Rumor, And More…

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The equestrian parade continues. The day after Givenchy’s horsey Fall collection, Gucci has announced that Monégasque princess Charlotte Casiraghi (above, at the Cartier International Dubai Polo Challenge earlier this year) will be the face of its forthcoming equestrian-themed Forever Now campaign by photographer Peter Lindbergh. [Vogue U.K.]

In a candid moment, Stella McCartney acknowledged that she still finds the fashion industry “intimidating.” “I don’t go into shops much now, but I used to find it really daunting,” the designer said. McCartney has a shop of her own opening later this week: a second London outpost. [Vogue U.K.]

The cogitating around Raf Simons’ departure continues. In a new piece, the Times‘ Cathy Horyn considers the diminishing role of designers. “[You] sense that designers, their talents apart, are being used in a dreary chess game of brand power,” she writes. [NYT]

Speaking of designer change-ups, Maxime Simoens is reportedly leaving his position at Leonard. While the French designer retains his own namesake label, he is rumored to be in contact with Dior executives. [WWD]

Photo: Chris Jackson / Getty Images

Noritaka Tatehana’s Heel-less Holiday Collection, Inside Dior Couture, Marks And Spencers’ Lingerie Ad Has Too Much Spice, And More…

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Noritaka Tatehana, who designs Lady Gaga’s heel-less shoes, has created a Christmas collection, available at Trading Museum Comme des Garçons in Tokyo through December 25. Here’s the catch—the five pairs he made, in white, silver, and crystal, only come in one size. [Hint]

The chiffon dress Amy Winehouse donned for her Back to Black cover album sold for £43,200, or around $67,500, at yesterday’s auction. The dress was bought by the Fundacion Museo de la Moda in Chile. [Huff Po]

Using roughly 150 dresses, suits, and coats, Patrick Demarchelier offers his take on fashion and the house of Dior in his new tome Dior Couture. Of the book, The New York Times‘ Cathy Horyn says, “It’s obvious from Dior Couture that Mr. Demarchelier loves taking pictures of beautiful women, but his photos almost always have an extra quality: he also understands how clothes should look on the body.” [NYT]

A Marks and Spencer lingerie ad has been deemed too sexy for the bus. The ad, featuring a woman in a bra, panties, and stockings on a bed, had appeared on buses in the U.K., but the Advertising Standards Agency declared it “socially irresponsible.” [Telegraph]

At Balenciaga, A Standing-Room-Only Crowd

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Balenciaga gave its showgoers something to tweet about even before its models hit the catwalk today. “Benches cracking at Balenciaga as guests leap up. A second one just carted off. Now a third broke and nervous buzz starts, as in ‘Me next?’ ” said @CathyHorynNYT. The Traina sisters reportedly jumped when they heard the first crack, others found themselves flat on the floor after the benches, supporting the likes of Mario Testino, Catherine Deneuve, Carine Roitfeld, and Style.com’s Nicole Phelps, broke. So, it turned into a standing-room-only show. “All standing like in a church!” tweeted @AnnaDelloRusso. And the reactions were appropriately reverent. At a different show, the audience might’ve gotten restless, but here the disciples liked what they saw in the boxy coats and killer angular heels. “Amazing Balenciaga show by Nicolas Ghesquière!” added ADR afterward. The crowd was already on their feet to give M. Ghesquière what amounted to a standing ovation when he came out to take a bow.

Photo: Monica Feudi / Feudiguaineri.com