69 posts tagged "Celine"
While we were busy functioning in two different time zones and losing track of hours, days, and weeks during the marathon that is fashion month, a game-changing store opening fell off the industry’s radar. In a move that we did not see coming, it seems our beloved Céline has gone the way of the outlet, opening up shop at upstate New York’s Woodbury Commons. A rep for the outdoor shopping center affirmed that doors opened in late January, right before NYFW. Buzz on the photo—though we can’t confirm—states that ready-to-wear and accessories are 50 percent and 30 percent off, respectively. To say we’re eager to investigate would be an understatement. Field trip, anyone?
The foursome behind the new label Vetements, which means “clothes” in French, first met at Maison Martin Margiela. After a time, they all dispersed, but the backstory goes a long way toward explaining why, now that they’ve formed a collective, not one wishes to be identified by name. What we can say, however, is that it’s an international crowd with cred—they’re Austrian, Belgian, Ex-Soviet Union, and French, and they’ve done time at Balenciaga and Céline.
Regrouping has been “kind of like a high school reunion,” one of the designers said the other day. “But what we really want to do is just make clothes that are timeless, personal, and nice to have. It’s more a collection of ideas.”
The kind of woman Vetements is talking to is urban, but she’s into pushing it with not-too-basic wares such as vintage 501s reworked as a skirt with uneven, raw hems; boxy jackets in heavy biker leather; and conceptual pieces like garment bag shearling coats and sleeveless vests (these come with a separate set of sleeves). “Brutalist” basics cover a lot of ground, from T-shirts and sweaters to trenchcoats. These are offered in seasonal colors of charcoal, navy, taupe, bordeaux, and black, and the range is brightened by the occasional flash of aluminum nylon. Judging by the retailer response (and the clothes, of course), this wearable compilation of ideas is full of good ones—Opening Ceremony, Joyce Hong Kong, and Maxfield in L.A. have already picked up the brand’s debut collection.
“It’s not topical, we’re not talking themes,” the designer noted. “We’re talking pieces that work on their own and play off each other.” We’ll be keeping an eye out for what this mysterious quartet does next.
Mention Los Angeles-based designer Brian Lichtenberg and two things come to mind. The first, of course, is his line of cheeky, logo-tweaked T-shirts, in which Hermès becomes Homiés, Celine transforms to Feline, and Balmain is swapped for Ballin’. Rihanna wears them. Miley Cyrus is a fan. And they’re sold at such highbrow retailers as Net-a-Porter, Colette, and Browns of London. For those with a slightly longer celeb-fashion memory, Lichtenberg is also a ready-to-wear designer known for some very high-voltage body-con dresses.
He let his ready-to-wear line go when the T-shirts picked up. “It’s a small team that I’m working with,” Lichtenberg explained. “It’s growing, but in the beginning, when it became all about the sweatshirts, the T-shirts, the beanies, the hoodies, it was like we really only had to focus on that or it wasn’t going to get made.” But this evening at The Hub at the Hudson Hotel, Lichtenberg relaunched his now-several-seasons-dormant luxury collection. “It was like, OK, I can keep doing this and not do any more dresses or leggings and just kind of be known as another L.A. sportswear designer,” Lichtenberg related from the couch in the Hudson’s lounge. “But I [wouldn't have been able to] live with myself. I want to do my dresses. I want to do the patchwork and the fun editorial moments. It’s in my blood.”
The collection, of which Lichtenberg gave us an exclusive preview, is a motocross-inspired compilation of mesh, spandex, and fishnet patched leggings; sexed-up bandage dresses; and lambskin leather drop pants (for both girls and guys). A fox fur taupe jacket and more than a few transparent lace and leather evening crop tops make it clear: This is not for a shy client.
The line—first inspired by a pair of vintage moto pants Lichtenberg found at a thrift store (“I love thrift shopping and I love just going to the Rose Bowl and shopping for ripped-up T-shirts,” he said)—is not without its tongue-in-cheek elements. A red-and-white men’s sweatshirt reads “Lichtenboro” in place of Marlboro, while a casual tee is printed with “Be Licked” as a stand-in for Bud Light. “It started with those pants, then it got me into the patchwork of the legs and doing the dresses and also kind of a white-trash element,” Lichtenberg said. “‘Be Licked’ is just a throwback to smoking and beer and all that kind of stuff.”
The designer hopes that fans of his T-shirts will embrace his ready-to-wear. It’s for somebody “who doesn’t take fashion too seriously, but loves to dress up,” Lichtenberg explained. “A free spirit.”
If nothing else, the confluence of the Polar Vortex and Pre-Fall presentations in New York has given us the chance to see the inventive ways in which fashion editors and designers choose to face down slippery sidewalks and subzero temperatures. Stylist Camilla Nickerson, for example, bypassed winter boots for nubby oatmeal socks and a pair of black-and-burgundy open-toed flats from Céline’s Resort ’14 lineup, crushing the notion that socks-and-sandals is a faux pas. Definitely cozy-chic, but we’re guessing she wasn’t planning on walking too many blocks to her next appointment. Elle‘s Samira Nasr, meanwhile, braved New York’s menacing gray puddles in a pair of pristine white moccasin boots, and WSJ. editor-in-chief Kristina O’Neill kept her calves above freezing with a pair of charcoal leg warmers, which she pulled over her black skinny jeans. However, the most-thoroughly-bundled award has to go to The Row’s Mary-Kate Olsen. The designer walked editors around her showroom while wearing a navy shearling coat with a slick fur collar. She and sister Ashley’s Greenwich Street headquarters weren’t exactly without heat, but they are only a block from the very chilly Hudson, and you never know when a river-effect draft might blow through. But perhaps the look that best sums up our schizophrenic weather (55 degrees on Monday, 12 degrees on Tuesday) was the one Jamie Bochert donned for the Givenchy Pre-Fall lookbook: open-toed sandals and a full-on fur.
Céline’s Phoebe Philo is wrapping up the year on a definitive high note. Today, it was announced that the British designer is on the Queen’s New Year’s Honors list, and has been awarded an OBE (Officer of the Order of the British Empire) for her services to fashion. Philo joins the likes of Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton, Stella McCartney, and Dame Vivienne Westwood in the esteemed OBE club. Makeup artist Pat McGrath, too, got a nod today, receiving an MBE (Member of the Order of the British Empire). No doubt, these ladies have earned an extra glass of champagne at midnight.