86 posts tagged "CFDA"
The Weight Debate
From Kate Upton’s curves (left), which are flaunted and lauded on the cover of British Vogue this month, to the controversy surrounding Karlie Kloss’s photoshopped ribs in the October 2012 issue of Numero, models’ weight is once again (or should that be “as always”?) a hot topic. Today’s Wall Street Journal features a story about Israel’s new law, which will both ban models with a BMI of less than 18.5 and require magazines to reveal whether models have been photoshopped to look thinner. The story also notes that the CFDA has not tried to implement such regulations, although they did create a health initiative in 2007 and, according to CEO Steven Kolb, continue to promote education and awareness about eating disorders. Fashion shows in Madrid and Milan have, like Israel, imposed a ban on models with BMIs under 18 and 18.5, respectively. But these guidelines are difficult to adhere to and gray areas exist even within the hard-and-fast measurements. In the same vein, Refinery 29 reported today, with some optimism, that a Plus-Size Fashion Weekend will take place in London during the upcoming women’s collections. However, the piece also recalls when, during his Spring ’09 and Fall ’10 shows, Mark Fast put plus-size models (like Crystal Renn, who, by human standards, is hardly plus size at all) in ill-fitting garments on his runway. With the exception of a guest appearance from Laura Catterall during his Fall ’11 show, curvy catwalkers haven’t been featured on Fast’s runway since.
All-American—With A Quick Detour To Sweden
Gant, the heritage American sportswear label known for its preppy threads, was founded in New Haven, Connecticut, over 60 years ago. Bought by a Swedish company in 1999, Gant has wended into and out of the spotlight, but the progress of the last few years—and the surging of interest in heritage Americana, especially in menswear—has seen the label make strides. The line now comprises three distinct entities, the namesake label, a special collection designed by CFDA Award-winner Michael Bastian, and the sportier Gant Rugger.
The world—not just America—is taking notice. Three new stores opened in the U.S. last year (in Boston, L.A., and Georgetown), following a year of investment in New York, where the longtime Fifth Avenue flagship was fully renovated and a new Bleecker Street boutique added. This, plus a subtle update to the label’s design vision has, according to reps, resulted in a doubling of U.S. sales figures. In 2013, plans are in order for locations in London, Stockholm, and Paris’ Le Marais.
2012 proved to be a year of firsts and new starts. Christopher Bastin, the Swedish creative director of Gant Rugger, took the reins at Gant as well. A new, super-charged campaign for Spring ’13 (above) will debut in the new year, with a lineup of talent more often associated with major European fashion houses: art direction by Baron & Baron, photography by Mikael Jansson, and styling by Joe McKenna. “We felt that Baron + Baron could give us a fresh perspective,” Bastin said, “But we know who we are and where we come from. I knew it would be foolish to rush things. American sportswear is about style, not fashion, so there are gentle shifts.”
And what of his Swedish background—has being immersed in Gant’s all-American archive given the creative director, well, a touch of Stockholm Syndrome? “I’m not a big fan of typical Scandinavian minimalistic aesthetics,” Bastin said. “I can appreciate the simplicity, but it’s not me. In my next life, I want to graduate from Yale and live in Vinegar Hill.”
Simkhai On The Prize
Two years after starting his namesake line, 27-year-old up-and-comer Jonathan Simkhai is hitting his stride. His Spring ’13 collection, which put a Venice Beach twist on urban essentials, earned attention from key buyers (he’s currently carried at Barneys, Louis Boston and Matches in London) and helped him grab the attention of the CFDA (in October, Simkhai was accepted into the Fashion Incubator program). At last week’s 12-12-12 concert, Kristen Stewart was snapped in a sporty neon green look from Simkhai’s pre-fall lineup. Just days before K. Stew wore his graphic button-up shirt and checkered track shorts, Simkhai was busy dressing models in those same pieces at the historic Stonewall Inn on Christopher Street, where he shot his new pre-fall lookbook. “I loved the contrast of showing luxury pieces in an unpretentious setting with history,” Simkhai told Style.com on set. “My customer is equally at home in a dive bar or out at an event. She’s laid-back, fun, and has a rebellious streak.” Simkhai’s previous collection was inspired by surfer and skater culture, but the designer shifted to a punk-rock vibe for pre-fall, decorating his mood board with black-and-white pictures of bands like The Clash. Accordingly, chartreuse-colored jacquard separates were printed with a micro-checkerboard pattern reminiscent of classic Vans, while flirty leather skirts and flared dresses had feminine bits of organza peeking out from under the hemlines. Novelty sweatshirts and varsity jackets rounded out the offerings—they’re just the kind of nonchalant items a girl like Stewart would wear from her morning errands to an afternoon press conference.
Splash (And Splurge) for Sandy Relief
Nothing like a little charity to show you where you stand on fashion’s food chain. As part of the CFDA and Vogue‘s new auction for Hurricane Sandy relief, a date with Ryan Lochte (well, a swimming lesson and lunch, but who’s to say where that’ll lead), runs an estimated $20K; a day with Bryanboy is a comparative bargain at $1,000.
Details’ Square Deal
Details hosted a cocktail party at Norwood Club last night to launch its latest menswear collaboration with the CFDA: a series of limited-edition pocket squares from ten different designers. The collection features styles like an autographed Marc Jacobs square (right), Thom Browne’s signature red, white, and blue (center), a weathered American flag look by John Varvatos (left) and a black and white rose print from Richard Chai. “Mine was inspired by punk, the street,” said Chai. “And they’re all screen-printed by hand.” The small batches produced—only ten of each style—launch exclusively on Bonobos.com today. And at $100 a pop, all proceeds will benefit the CFDA Foundation. Why pocket squares? “It’s an easy place to start; you can wear one without looking too over-the-top,” Details editor Dan Peres told Style.com. Although he confessed to never having worn a pocket square in his life, CFDA CEO Steven Kolb forecasted a new trend. “Guys are into pocket squares. They’re the new skinny tie!”