10 posts tagged "Charlotte Stockdale"
Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month rolls on, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.
Label: Ryan Lo
Need to Know: Born in Hong Kong and showing for the first time outside of Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East, Ryan Lo presented his playful collection titled Orange Is the New Pink in London’s Tate Modern as part of NewGen. With strong industry support—from Susie Lau writing his press releases to working with super-stylist Charlotte Stockdale’s Chaos Fashion on styling, Lo’s presentation was a girly nod to Americana that encompassed his ongoing focus on romantic fantasy and love. A distinct sense of fun was felt throughout, with smiling and relaxed models showing off gold and silver quilted and frilled skirts and jackets paired with multicolored sneakers with diamanté details, made in collaboration with Swear. Elongated dresses in gray or black-and-white knits or pink glittery Lurex had a more grown-up and polished feel, but that was quickly balanced with pink and orange shimmering fabrics and scrunched-up swan down-lined capes. Standout looks included an eggshell long knit dress underneath a frilled long cardigan of the same color worn with yellow sneakers and topped with a Stetson cowboy hat, and an orange transparent blouse over a pink scrunched-up skirt with a pink cowboy hat on top.
He Says: “This season we polished my woman. I worked with a team of women, and you can see that in the collection. They are no longer girls; they are chic and sexy, with bare legs and a cool attitude. My collections are always about love, and this started with Pocahontas. She was running, painting colors on the wind, and fell into a time vortex trying to find her lover.”
Where to Find It: Opening Ceremony, VFiles in New York, K3, Beams in Japan.
Last October, British stylist Charlotte Stockdale announced she was leaving her post at i-D, a pillar of British street and underground fashion, and joining Garage magazine as its fashion director. The über-cool stylist’s first efforts for Dasha Zhukova’s biannual art and fashion mag were unveiled today, when issue six hit newsstands. Garage gave us an exclusive first look at its Nick Knight-lensed covers (above), which feature Karlie Kloss and Cara Delevingne. As evidenced by Garage‘s new snaps, Stockdale can seamlessly transition between high-gloss and grit—a skill that no doubt came in handy during her stints at Dazed & Confused and Harper’s Bazaar, and while styling shows for the likes of Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi. She’s worked with Karl Lagerfeld on the latter’s runway looks and campaigns for the last five years. Here, Style.com caught up with Stockdale to talk about the state of British fashion, leaving i-D, and her vision for Garage.
What drew you to Garage?
Everything about it. I remember the first issue coming out and thinking it was something different, courageous, seriously beautiful, and sometimes quite shocking. It’s not safe and it’s incredibly sophisticated. I talked on and off with Dasha about shooting for her, but it never worked because I was too busy with i-D. Then we met for tea after the summer—I was quite relaxed from holiday—and she said she was looking into a fashion director, and obviously that evolved into a conversation.
Did you feel that i-D was no longer those things—courageous, shocking, and beautiful? Is that why you left?
No, that’s not why I left. Not in the slightest. I enjoy conceptual fashion, and there isn’t a lot of space left for it anymore. Garage is a venue where conceptual fashion is still the right thing. When I started at Dazed & Confused at the beginning, conceptual fashion was the thing. I like exploring it on multilayers, not just mixing jackets and trousers for a good picture.
And how does that translate in terms of your vision for this magazine?
I would like to keep a delicate mix of sophisticated and playful. Humor is very important, but it can’t be silly, and beauty is really important. The art content is serious. I don’t mean serious in a way that it is not amusing. Some of it is very amusing, but they put in heavyweights. The fashion needs to balance that out. I love working with the stylish photographers and new photographers and new designers. So far, most of them are saying “yes.”
On the subject of new designers, who are you particularly excited about right now in London?
It sounds awfully predictable to say, but I am very interested in J.W. Anderson and Christopher Kane. London right now has finally hit its stride. There’s Peter Pilotto, Mary Katrantzou, etc., and they have all found this balance between creativity and the business, which are equally important. That wasn’t so much the case when I was young. Some succeeded and others didn’t—the balance wasn’t correct. I have seen so much talent leave Britain and move to other cities. We have always felt it was such a shame that these kids aren’t back at home building proper brands themselves.
How do you think this momentum with London fashion will progress in the next few seasons?
I think the momentum will continue. With Natalie Massenet at the helm of British Fashion Council, everything has stepped up a few notches. Obviously, she is a lady of no fear. These young designers all have solid bases, and they are building proper businesses. The month is a very crowded month, and it is pretty challenging for [fashion] people like ourselves. London used to be a three-day thing and you could miss it. Now it’s a solid five-day event full of high-class content. It is the most interesting fashion week aside from Paris.
Christmas in London wouldn’t be the same without Stella McCartney’s annual lighting of the Christmas lights at her Mayfair store. Apart from the comfort food and drinks always on offer—mince tarts, Santa biscuits, marshmallow lollies, mulled wine, and Guinness—equally comforting is the company: A musical Santa, a hawker of roasted chestnuts, and, every year, a switch-flicker of honor. In the past, these have included comic Catherine Tate and the men of Little Britain; this year’s was a double-header doozy: Ab Fab‘s Edina Monsoon (a.k.a. comedienne Jennifer Saunders, in character) and her “client,” Spice Girl Emma “Baby Spice” Bunton. (A video of their lighting goes up today at StellaMcCartney.com, and McCartney herself will return the visit with a cameo when Absolutely Fabulous returns to TV for three episodes this summer.)
The designer has plenty to celebrate. The day before, she’d scooped up the Red Carpet Award at the BFAs (“I am still walking on a cloud over here!”), and in the past year, debuted designs at the New York City Ballet. Next year sees a new store opening in Kensington and a commission to outfit Great Britain’s Olympic Team in her Adidas garb. What could possibly be next—menswear? On that she is sanguine: “The idea of menswear has always brewed in my head. But it has to be done properly and deserves a lot of time and attention. We’ll see.”
In the meantime, guests like Kate Moss with daughter Lila, dad Paul with new wife Nancy, Alexa Chung, Pam Hogg, and i-D‘s Charlotte Stockdale all joined in the fray. Talk was all about Stella’s 2012 debut at London fashion week: a presentation of a one-off capsule collection tied to the Olympic Games. “It’s about coming home, about celebrating London, the Olympics, and the city’s vibe,” McCartney says. “I can’t wait.”
Jewelers, it’s your lucky day. Tiffany & Co. has announced a new, $1 million gift to the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, which will include a $250,000 grant to be awarded to one of the past jewelry winners of the Fashion Fund grant. [CFDA]
Vogue Italia investigates a trend we’re not sure will catch on: “the housemaid look” (left). [Vogue.it]
Before his move to W, Edward Enninful had been fashion director at i-D for two decades, since taking the job in 1991 at the tender age of 18. His successor has just been announced: Charlotte Stockdale, the English stylist who’s long worked with the magazine, as well as contributing to Numéro, V, and Visionaire. [Fashionologie]
Organic’s John Patrick is a man of many talents. Case in point: The watercolor paintings (with organic paint, no less!) he’s contributing to a new group show. [T]
And pour a little out, it’s the end of an era: The final episode of Oprah airs today at 4 p.m. EST. [Oprah]
The runway trend of the past few seasons has been the storming of the high-fashion catwalk by more commercial-skewing girls: Miranda Kerr and Gisele Bündchen at Balenciaga, Alessandra Ambrosio and Doutzen Kroes at Prada, and so on. But the tide, it turns out, goes both ways—the commercial holy grail, the Victoria’s Secret fashion show, tapes in New York City tomorrow night, and plenty of higher-than-high fashion models are set to strut.
“It’s such an editorial level,” said Sophia Neophitou, the 10 and Harper’s Bazaar U.K. editrix who’s taken over styling duties for Charlotte Stockdale this season. “It’s not just a predictable approach to it at all, which is something I wasn’t totally aware of before I got here, you know. We looked at girls we love to shoot editorially; that’s what great. I think there’s a perception before you get here of what will work. But the reality is, it’s about the girl, it’s about the woman, what she brings as a human being to it, rather than has she got a size 34C cup. No, it’s not about that at all.” She laughs: “That’s what they’ve got the miracle bras for.”
The girl Neophitou was surveying was Anja Rubik, the doe-eyed Polish model who’s a favorite of Karl Lagerfeld’s, as she spun in a draped kimono, hand-painted with Sailor Jerry-style tattoos, a studded bra and panty set, and knee-high, back-buckled Giuseppe Zanotti Design boots. The kimono, along with several other painted pieces, is the handiwork of Jeff Fender (below, with Rubik), a Broadway costume designer who also worked on Tom Ford’s top-secret new women’s collection. (Fender estimated that the kimono alone took 300-plus man hours.) It’s one of Rubik’s two looks in the show—the other being an enormous, marabou-trailing pair of wings. (“Giving the girls wings, I feel like Father Christmas,” Neophitou said. “They cry, they actually cry.”)
De-winged and back in her street clothes—Balenciaga dress, Rick Owens jacket, Chanel bag, and Eternamé ring—Rubik, who has just returned from shooting an i-D cover in London, ran down the appeal of appearing in the VS show. “It took me a while to convince myself to do it,” she admitted. “I don’t really do lingerie shows. I thought, it’s a little too much for me; I thought, I don’t want to go there. But Charlotte [Stockdale] is a good friend of mine…she convinced me. I did it last year; it’s so much fun. It’s more fun than any other show.” Continue Reading “Winged Messengers” »