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August 22 2014

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3 posts tagged "Chau Har Lee"

London’s NewGen 2011 Winners Announced

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London is famously supportive of its young designers, and today, the British Fashion Council announced the 18 who will be the beneficiaries of the NewGen sponsorship at London fashion week in February.

Holly Fulton, Louise Gray, Mary Katrantzou, David Koma, and Michael van der Ham will all be presenting shows on the catwalk, supported by NewGen. Christopher Raeburn, Craig Lawrence, J. JS Lee, and milliner Nasir Mazhar will hold presentations; jewelers Dominic Jones and Jordan Askill will stage installations; and menswear designer J.W. Anderson will screen a film. There’ll also be a larger exhibition featuring the work of all of the designers above, plus Dorchester Prize finalists Chau Har Lee and Thomas Tait, Fannie Schiavoni, Felicity Brown, Yang Du, and Finnish designer Heikki Salonen.

Check out the links above to see runway shows, reviews, blogs, and all of Style.com’s past coverage on the winning designers.

Pictured above, left to right: Spring 2011 looks from Holly Fulton, Mary Katrantzou, and Michael Van Der Ham.

Photos: Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

Tait Takes the Dorchester

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Thomas Tait and models

Thomas Tait and models

“I can’t afford to go home,” designer Thomas Tait admitted yesterday at the Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize awards in London, referring to the cost of a return flight to his native Montreal. Not to worry. A few minutes later, Tait received the evening’s top honors and his ticket, as it were: the £25,000 inaugural prize—bestowed by an industry who’s-who of judges including Manolo Blahnik, Bronwyn Cosgrave, Giles Deacon, and Daphne Guinness—and a chance to stage an event (and presumably, order room service) at the Dorchester Collection hotel of his choice. While Tait and his fellow finalists, Louise Goldin, Mary Katrantzou, Hermione de Paula, and Chau Har Lee, all share a penchant for craftsmanship, British Vogue‘s Alexandra Shulman, another judge, stressed that function was as critical as form when it came to picking a winner. “There is no point making precious objects that nobody can do anything with,” she said of the possibility of rewarding a collection for its sheer artistry. Tait, who trained with Montreal design darling Denis Gagnon, keeps a utilitarian edge to his careful cutting, creating a compelling tension between the body and the forms enveloping it. (In a nice bit of symmetry, Gagnon celebrated his ten-year anniversary yesterday with an exhibition at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts.) Juror Yasmin LeBon was particularly gushy over Tait’s work: “It is gorgeous and brilliant to wear,” she said definitively. “I want more.”

Photo: Ian Gavan / Getty Images

Meet The 2010 Dorchester Collection Prize Semifinalists

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“Everyone involved in this was my A-list first choice,” Bronwyn Cosgrave declared of the panel of judges she assembled to select the five short-listed semifinalists for the first Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize at London’s Dorchester Hotel. That sentiment, one hopes, extends to said semifinalists, too. But Cosgrave could be forgiven for a little enthusiasm for the judging side of the table: It included Daphne Guinness, Manolo Blahnik, Giles Deacon, milliner Stephen Jones, Yasmin LeBon, Vanity Fair‘s Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, and ES fashion director Gianluca Longo. Despite the varied group, “it was a remarkably smooth decision process,” Blahnik said. “We saw the number of applications and hung our heads. But it turns out that we were largely unified despite our different personal aesthetics.” His co-panelist Guinness (pictured above with her fellow jurors) agreed heartily. “I take refuge in the arts,” she said. “It was wonderful to have us all agree so easily, so that I could realize that I am not crazy and my values are shared.”

The semifinalists are the English knitwear designer Louise Goldin; the Greek-born, London-based Mary Katrantzou; Hermione de Paula, who created a surprisingly dainty collection called “I Heart Elizabeth Berkley”; the sculptural footwear designer Chau Har Lee; and Thomas Tait, from Canada. The unifying factor—maybe the only one—is a commitment to craftsmanship and a preference for the conceptual (even, occasionally, at the expense of commercial viability).

But Guinness, for one, was all in favor. “Craftmanship needs to return,” she declared. “I am always overjoyed to see students who love to stitch their own seams. We need better things, not more. We should not pollute the world with meaningless, unused things when we can make and support things of rare and precious beauty.” As the only international fashion prize set to roam to a different fashion capital each year—at the site, not by coincidence, of a Dorchester Collection hotel; next year’s will be in New York—the award should do just that. The winner, to be announced in November, takes home a £25,000 prize and a free event at any of the Dorchester Collection’s properties.

Photo: Courtesy of the Dorchester Collection