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April 21 2014

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16 posts tagged "Cheap Monday"

The Crowning Moments Of Stockholm Fashion Week

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What a difference a few months make. It was only February this year that the original Lisbeth Salander, Noomi Rapace, opened Stockholm fashion week on a cold winter’s morning. This time around, it was none other than Victoria, Crown Princess of Sweden, who kicked off the Spring ’13 proceedings (as for the temperature on this summer’s morning, it felt only disputably higher)—it was an unexpected, stark contrast to the past season, indeed.

The first show of the season was couture by Dior and Lanvin alumnus Fadi el Khoury. From an elegant, pristine white trouser suit with a tame peplum to intricately detailed lace gowns, these were clothes perfect for a modern princess. It wasn’t until Stylein that we saw a collection word-perfect to what the Scandi-less among us think represents Scandinavian cool. Designed by Elin Nyström, these were easy separates in lemon, gray, and a small floral print, to bulk-buy and rely on. But if it’s the must-watch name you’re looking for, a safe bet could be placed with Altewaisaome, by designers Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome. They showed cocoon jackets, origami pleated skirts, and white wedges (all of which might be inspired by the Fall runways at Balenciaga, Proenza Schouler, and Céline), but there was more than enough here to warrant keeping tabs on them as they develop their line.
Continue Reading “The Crowning Moments Of Stockholm Fashion Week” »

Dragon Tattoo Leaves Its Mark On Stockholm Fashion Week

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It was Stockholm’s unlikely style icon Lisbeth Salander, or rather the first actress to bring her to life in the original The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo film series, Noomi Rapace (pictured), who kicked off the city’s fashion week Monday morning with a ribbon-cutting ceremony. Rapace attended shows throughout the week, and on Tuesday night, at the just-opened Burberry store, she told us she had just come from the Dagmar show, where Salander was cited as an inspiration (the modernist artist Sigrid Hjerten was the other) for the collection. The three Dagmar sisters are known for their knitwear, but this show brought their label to a new level. For every sweater in a deep plum, there were long silk dresses with high slits secured by zips, and right after the cream chunky Aran knit came a top and track-style pants in a black velvet devoré animal print that made everyone lean forward for a closer look. It appeared again on a dress and alongside the lace-effect knit patterns on a couple of short dresses at the end—Dagmar was the highlight of the day, if not the week. More than one editor placed a personal order after the show—we overheard one of them saying, “I want to be a Dagmar girl” at the end of the presentation.

The rest of the week flew by, perhaps a sign that when casual cool is your brand’s DNA, a full-on show may be a stretch. Then again, you could drive everyone to a hangar space outside the city and show bras on top of cutoff tees (à la Cheap Monday) or throw balloons, confetti, and winking models high-fiving each other on the runway (like Odd Molly), but perhaps that’s not advisable without a heavy dose of Meadham Kirchhoff irony. Jewelry designer Maria Nilsdotter put on a small presentation at the Story hotel for her Swedish folk tale-inspired collection of silver pieces with spikes, and Ida Sjöstedt showed her hand-stitched gowns in the Clock Suite of the Berns Hotel. These more intimate spaces turned out some of the most promising offerings. With that, Stockholm fashion week closed Wednesday night, as temperatures dropped to -13 degrees C (8 degrees F), just in time for everyone to hop over to Copenhagen to begin a new round of shows.

Photo: Ian Gavan / Getty Images

Just Another Manic Monday

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Ann-Sofie Back was and wasn’t completely herself these past few days, showing two very different collections during Stockholm fashion week. On Monday, she presented her diffusion line, Back, in a shop basement: easygoing looks that included windbreaker-fabric pants and a beautiful lipstick-smudge floral print. (For a look at Back Spring 11, click below.) Much more hyped, though, was the first full collection she’s done for Cheap Monday (above) since being named creative director last summer, which showed on a rainy Tuesday evening under a tent on the Stockholm waterfront.

Back tapped into her flashier side for that one, citing (along with collaborator Örjan Andersson) Latin denim and L.A. celebrity trends as strong influences. “With Cheap Monday, I can actually somehow be freer, because it’s not me,” she explained backstage. The brand’s bigger client base means working with more restrictions. “It can’t be too clean; it has to be playful and a bit rough. There are certain things that have to be included in the collection, and that’s actually quite relaxing,” Back said. “With my own line, I get a bit more precious, and not always in a good way.”

There’s nothing that self-deprecating in Back’s extroverted, slightly exaggerated Cheap Monday looks. There are some overlaps, though: sheer tops, drawstrings, and glitter. As for her main line, Ann-Sofie Back, she’ll show it in London on September 20. After a contemplative pause, she said, “I’m pretty sure there’s no glitter in it.” Continue Reading “Just Another Manic Monday” »

VMan Rounds Up A Few Great Danes

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Tonight at around 11 p.m.—so they say, but my money’s on midnight or later—a handful of Denmark’s best designers present a runway show of a few looks from their Fall collections for the revelers celebrating VMan‘s Scandinavian issue at Good Units. VMan‘s Stephen Gan sees big things in Scandinavia’s fashion future, I’m told, and has called in a few friends to make his case. But if late-night conditions aren’t favorable for a clear-eyed assessment (or for any editor with a husband, kid, or early bedtime), the group all gathered yesterday for a preview event and to meet the press.

Some names are familiar to U.S. buyers: Cheap Monday; Camilla Stærk, who shows at New York fashion week; and Henrik Vibskov, who shows men’s in Paris and a co-ed, and-the-kitchen-sink extravaganza in Copenhagen (last season’s included donkeys). But a few lesser-known Danish brands deserve their due. Day Birger et Mikkelsen, the lower-priced daywear line originally founded by Malene Birger, was covetable, especially at its reasonable prices. The men’s brand Soulland, whose hybrid cap/hat topper should replace the porkpie on every scruffy dude east of Avenue A, had great high-low pieces—I couldn’t take my hands off a varsity jacket with mink sleeves, even if it’s probably a little precious to wear anywhere near a game. And the flame-haired Stine Goya, an alum of Central Saint Martins, showed separates with a strong tailored streak. Her twining, cabled Snake sweater (pictured) is a best seller, she told me, and should look just as good with her wool or linen-silk wide-leg trousers as with your oldest weather-beaten jeans.

Photo: Courtesy of Stine Goya

Cheap Monday Can’t Wait To Get Back

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Ann-Sofie Back has jumped the gun. Though she’s been signed on as creative director at Cheap Monday since 2009, thanks to the plan-ahead cycles of fashion, her first full collections aren’t due until Spring ’11. That doesn’t mean you have to wait to get Back. The designer has created capsule additions to the Cheap Monday ranges for both men and women for Spring and Fall, the first of which is bowing now. Think of the new pieces as a teaser, one that New Yorkers can check out on Thursday night, when A.OK the basement shop at the Bond Street location of Oak, which marks the U.S. debut of Back’s designs for the Scandinavian label. “Young, playful, and rebellious” are the words Back uses to describe the Cheap Monday ethos, which she intends to apply to all parts of the brand, including but not limited to its well-known denim. “The denim will always set the agenda, but the rest of the collection needs to work on its own as well,” Back explains. For her capsule creations, she has applied denim-esque ideas such as whiskering, shredding, and patching to other kinds of clothing, such as tees, tights, and sweats with cut-out and graphic duct-tape-print details.

Photo: Courtesy of Cheap Monday