15 posts tagged "Cheap Monday"
Ann-Sofie Back was and wasn’t completely herself these past few days, showing two very different collections during Stockholm fashion week. On Monday, she presented her diffusion line, Back, in a shop basement: easygoing looks that included windbreaker-fabric pants and a beautiful lipstick-smudge floral print. (For a look at Back Spring 11, click below.) Much more hyped, though, was the first full collection she’s done for Cheap Monday (above) since being named creative director last summer, which showed on a rainy Tuesday evening under a tent on the Stockholm waterfront.
Back tapped into her flashier side for that one, citing (along with collaborator Örjan Andersson) Latin denim and L.A. celebrity trends as strong influences. “With Cheap Monday, I can actually somehow be freer, because it’s not me,” she explained backstage. The brand’s bigger client base means working with more restrictions. “It can’t be too clean; it has to be playful and a bit rough. There are certain things that have to be included in the collection, and that’s actually quite relaxing,” Back said. “With my own line, I get a bit more precious, and not always in a good way.”
There’s nothing that self-deprecating in Back’s extroverted, slightly exaggerated Cheap Monday looks. There are some overlaps, though: sheer tops, drawstrings, and glitter. As for her main line, Ann-Sofie Back, she’ll show it in London on September 20. After a contemplative pause, she said, “I’m pretty sure there’s no glitter in it.” Continue Reading “Just Another Manic Monday” »
Tonight at around 11 p.m.—so they say, but my money’s on midnight or later—a handful of Denmark’s best designers present a runway show of a few looks from their Fall collections for the revelers celebrating VMan‘s Scandinavian issue at Good Units. VMan‘s Stephen Gan sees big things in Scandinavia’s fashion future, I’m told, and has called in a few friends to make his case. But if late-night conditions aren’t favorable for a clear-eyed assessment (or for any editor with a husband, kid, or early bedtime), the group all gathered yesterday for a preview event and to meet the press.
Some names are familiar to U.S. buyers: Cheap Monday; Camilla Stærk, who shows at New York fashion week; and Henrik Vibskov, who shows men’s in Paris and a co-ed, and-the-kitchen-sink extravaganza in Copenhagen (last season’s included donkeys). But a few lesser-known Danish brands deserve their due. Day Birger et Mikkelsen, the lower-priced daywear line originally founded by Malene Birger, was covetable, especially at its reasonable prices. The men’s brand Soulland, whose hybrid cap/hat topper should replace the porkpie on every scruffy dude east of Avenue A, had great high-low pieces—I couldn’t take my hands off a varsity jacket with mink sleeves, even if it’s probably a little precious to wear anywhere near a game. And the flame-haired Stine Goya, an alum of Central Saint Martins, showed separates with a strong tailored streak. Her twining, cabled Snake sweater (pictured) is a best seller, she told me, and should look just as good with her wool or linen-silk wide-leg trousers as with your oldest weather-beaten jeans.
Ann-Sofie Back has jumped the gun. Though she’s been signed on as creative director at Cheap Monday since 2009, thanks to the plan-ahead cycles of fashion, her first full collections aren’t due until Spring ’11. That doesn’t mean you have to wait to get Back. The designer has created capsule additions to the Cheap Monday ranges for both men and women for Spring and Fall, the first of which is bowing now. Think of the new pieces as a teaser, one that New Yorkers can check out on Thursday night, when A.OK the basement shop at the Bond Street location of Oak, which marks the U.S. debut of Back’s designs for the Scandinavian label. “Young, playful, and rebellious” are the words Back uses to describe the Cheap Monday ethos, which she intends to apply to all parts of the brand, including but not limited to its well-known denim. “The denim will always set the agenda, but the rest of the collection needs to work on its own as well,” Back explains. For her capsule creations, she has applied denim-esque ideas such as whiskering, shredding, and patching to other kinds of clothing, such as tees, tights, and sweats with cut-out and graphic duct-tape-print details.
There was plenty of grooving at Stockholm Fashion Week this year, where the Swedes showed their collections to an indie rock beat. A live piano concert—shades of Cat Power—attended Filippa K’s noirish collection of pencil skirts, structured dresses, and tilted fedoras in the Museum of Photography, and the crowded scene at Cheap Monday in the Frihamnshallen had the feel of an arena concert. In fact, almost every presentation was held at the Berns, the nineteenth-century hotel-cum-concert-hall where most of the guests were staying. (Good news, that, given that persistent snowdrifts would have made the usual fashion-week runaround pretty unpleasant.) The exception proved the rule at Hope, the week’s highlight, held in the gilded Royal Dramatic Theatre (pictured). As guests sampled delicacies from the Fårö region of Gotland and a second tier of onlookers snapped photos from an upstairs gallery, the two designers gave brief, scholarly explanations of how their crisp, beautifully tailored men’s and women’s wear reflected the influence of Ingmar Bergman’s art-house classic The Seventh Seal, from hooded sweaters meant to evoke Death’s cape to checkerboard prints suggesting his famous chess match. It wasn’t the usual soundtrack for the runway, but the beats were barely missed.