4 posts tagged "Chitose Abe"
Ladies, take it from us: Nothing kills a fashion week buzz quite like wiping out in front of a pack of street-style photographers in a pair of teetering stilettos. The glacial weather we’ve been enduring here in New York calls for practical footwear, but the trusty pair of Sorels you’ve been slushing around in all winter are all but guaranteed to earn you some disapproving looks from your boss. If only we could shop designers’ new Pre-Fall collections now. The Louis Vuitton and Fendi lineups both included furry moon boots, while Balenciaga’s sculptural looks were shown with practical yet polished pony-hair lace-up moccasins. Think of them as a luxe evolution of mukluks. And speaking of evolution, we also have our eyes trained on Chitose Abe’s fuzzy sneaker hybrid for Sacai Luck.
The Fall ’14 menswear collections have marched down the catwalk in London, Florence, and Milan, and are now under way in Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Sacai, designed by Chitose Abe
WHEN: Saturday, January 18
WHAT: “Turning classic items inside-out. Switching the outer and lining fabrics to create a new, unique interpretation of a familiar silhouette.”—Chitose Abe. The designer sent us a detail shot of her Fall ’14 collection, above.
Chitose Abe launched Sacai fifteen years ago. So it’s undoubtedly come as something of a surprise, after all this time, to find herself touted a buzzy up-and-comer. But there’s no doubt Sacai is having a moment: No less an eminence than Karl Lagerfeld recently called Sacai “the most interesting current brand,” and Abe’s show in Paris for Fall ’13 won a rapturous reception. Pieces from that collection were hanging at Dover Street Market in London, where Abe could be found putting the finishing touches on the new shop-in-shop she launched on Saturday. “I’ve been doing this long enough. I have my own way of working,” Abe said, when asked how she was handling the fashion spotlight. “I don’t think the attention is going to affect me, really. Certainly not the way I design.” That said, the shop-in-shop launch would seem to be another advance for Project Sacai: Total World Domination. Though small, the space is the brand’s first dedicated retail outlet outside of Asia. And as Abe pointed out, it gives her the opportunity to more fully express the ethos of Sacai to customers. The unusual shelving units, for instance, were created by the Japanese artistic collective Gelchop, whose whimsical ready-mades echo the Sacai principles of hybridization and collage. To wit, the piece that Abe pointed out as her favorite from the new collection is a double-breasted overcoat with a leather biker-jacket bib sewn onto the front. Edie Campbell wore it in the show. “I love authentic clothing, garments with a tradition,” explained Abe. “But I have to make these pieces authentic for me. So I combine things. I create a new volume, a new idea.”
Noticed at the shows: the return of fringe. Apropos of a seventies-inflected season, designers—especially those showing in Paris—covered dresses, accessories, and jewelry with dangling wisps, often in evening-friendly black. At Chanel (top left and center), Karl Lagerfeld hung feathers off hair clips and showed collarbone-skimming fringed earrings with tufted dresses. At Louis Vuitton (top right), Marc Jacobs kept his earrings ultra-long, too. At Balenciaga (bottom right), Nicolas Ghesquière covered tough sandals to the ankle with hairlike strands, and for Sacai (bottom center), Chitose Abe ornamented Louboutins with feathered straps. At Rick Owens (bottom left), the trend went in a different direction—literally. Instead of hanging down, his fringe tufted up, at the tips of floral accents on spring wedges.