2 posts tagged "Chitose Abe"
Chitose Abe launched Sacai fifteen years ago. So it’s undoubtedly come as something of a surprise, after all this time, to find herself touted a buzzy up-and-comer. But there’s no doubt Sacai is having a moment: No less an eminence than Karl Lagerfeld recently called Sacai “the most interesting current brand,” and Abe’s show in Paris for Fall ’13 won a rapturous reception. Pieces from that collection were hanging at Dover Street Market in London, where Abe could be found putting the finishing touches on the new shop-in-shop she launched on Saturday. “I’ve been doing this long enough. I have my own way of working,” Abe said, when asked how she was handling the fashion spotlight. “I don’t think the attention is going to affect me, really. Certainly not the way I design.” That said, the shop-in-shop launch would seem to be another advance for Project Sacai: Total World Domination. Though small, the space is the brand’s first dedicated retail outlet outside of Asia. And as Abe pointed out, it gives her the opportunity to more fully express the ethos of Sacai to customers. The unusual shelving units, for instance, were created by the Japanese artistic collective Gelchop, whose whimsical ready-mades echo the Sacai principles of hybridization and collage. To wit, the piece that Abe pointed out as her favorite from the new collection is a double-breasted overcoat with a leather biker-jacket bib sewn onto the front. Edie Campbell wore it in the show. “I love authentic clothing, garments with a tradition,” explained Abe. “But I have to make these pieces authentic for me. So I combine things. I create a new volume, a new idea.”
Noticed at the shows: the return of fringe. Apropos of a seventies-inflected season, designers—especially those showing in Paris—covered dresses, accessories, and jewelry with dangling wisps, often in evening-friendly black. At Chanel (top left and center), Karl Lagerfeld hung feathers off hair clips and showed collarbone-skimming fringed earrings with tufted dresses. At Louis Vuitton (top right), Marc Jacobs kept his earrings ultra-long, too. At Balenciaga (bottom right), Nicolas Ghesquière covered tough sandals to the ankle with hairlike strands, and for Sacai (bottom center), Chitose Abe ornamented Louboutins with feathered straps. At Rick Owens (bottom left), the trend went in a different direction—literally. Instead of hanging down, his fringe tufted up, at the tips of floral accents on spring wedges.