3 posts tagged "chlo"
Yesterday evening, 92nd Street Y hosted the latest installment of its ongoing Fashion Icons with Fern Mallis series. This time around, British journalist and International Herald Tribune fashion editor Suzy Menkes was in the hot seat, and the tone of her and Mallis’ conversation was appropriately outspoken. “Most designers can’t sleep after she sees their shows,” said Mallis. “She dares to say what she really feels and that is very rare.” Menkes more than illustrated this “rare” quality while opening up about her criticism of the Met’s Punk: Chaos to Couture exhibition (“It didn’t have enough of the sense of anger and freedom and drama that was punk”), her early fashion memories (“I made my own fashion newspaper at age 5—my mom still has it—with a page devoted to this glamorous person: me”), and her misadventures (sneaking into one of Karl Lagerfeld’s Chloé shows by pretending to be a cleaner with a mop).
Offering a detailed reflection on Menkes’ forty-some-year career, the Q&A took the audience through the highs and lows of the journalist’s life and work. It even touched upon Menkes’ personal tragedies, like the death of her husband (“My life is divided into before David and after David”). “I didn’t set out to be a pioneer [for female journalists],” explained Menkes. “I didn’t feel ambitious. I just wanted to have kids and a family, and I had my work, and I didn’t want to give it up.”
The conversation also examined some of Menkes’ more controversial stories and opinions. Of her much-buzzed-about T magazine article, “The Circus of Fashion,” she offered, “[The reaction] was surprising, because I’m so not condemning of blogging or any kind of social media.” Her feelings on John Galliano, who, it was announced today, will not be teaching a master class at Parsons, were discussed, too. “I would never say that I love Hitler, in any shape or form, ever,” she said. “But that is not to say that someone with such brilliant talent shouldn’t be given a second chance.”
For a budding designer, just being in the Hyères fashion and photography festival, which wrapped this weekend, is a win. Of 350 submissions, only ten fashion finalists make the cut. This year, one of the major talking points was whether judges should honor unbridled creativity or a designer’s ability to embrace reality. Lacoste’s Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who won the competition back in 2002 and served as the president of this year’s fashion jury, favors the former. “The clothes don’t have to be on the rack immediately,” he told Style.com. “But to be successful, a designer needs to show they’re thinking about the commercial side, so they really have to prove their creative flair.”
In the end, the15,000 euro Première Vision Grand Jury Prize went to Finnish designer Satu Maaranen for her Garment in Landscape collection, a poetic, freestyle exercise in hand-printed fabrics wrought with couture-inspired bows and elements of menswear. For example, on a much-noted jacket, the designer used glue to set the top portion with sand, silk-screened the rest neon pink, and looked to fishing trousers for the sleeve design. As part of her win, Maaranen will create a limited-edition T-shirt for another of the event’s sponsors, Petit Bateau. Continue Reading “At Hyères, Everyone’s a Winner” »
The Fall ’13 shows wrapped in Paris yesterday, and one of the many trends that stuck out this season was the single earring. Models at Dries Van Noten donned fractured crystals on their right ears, which lent a retro-futuristic glamour to the designer’s smart, feminine wares. Over at Thakoon, we spotted leafy, silver, pearl-embellished ear cuffs. Naturally, Versace offered a punk play on the trend, piercing models’ lobes with a giant spike, and chez Kenzo, it was all about structured, squiggly, dangling versions. At Chloé, Clare Waight Keller kept it simple, showing small gold pieces at the top of the ear. And the look has even taken to the street, as model Aymeline Valade was seen backstage at quite a few shows wearing a sole silver piercing. Needless to say, when it comes to earrings, one is no longer the loneliest number.